What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

So you fabricated that yourself? If so, very impressive! My compliments!

 

OK, break was over so I went back out and put two new OEM tailgate cables (stays) on her.

I reused one of the original tailgate bolts as the new one didn't seem to want to take to the threads.

So today: new tailgate handle and new tailgate cables.

 

Nothing exciting, just my semi-annual wash and wax job. I looked at the engine too, but although it's never been cleaned it looked acceptable for 24 years without a bath.

 

Changed the oil and finally drilled one of the front broken skid plate bolts out, though I took some threads with it. I can get a bolt threaded in there now, but it starts stripping when I go too tight. I got impatient with the drill...but it's progress.

Anyone with Total Chaos leaf spring hangers have advice on reaching the zerk? I got a 90-degree angle attachment for my grease gun, but it won't get in there. It looks to me like I'll need to jack up the back of the truck and let the axle droop to get the shackle to swing a bit and make it easier to reach the zerk? Can anyone confirm?

If I had a garage I'd have just jacked it up to see for myself, but using my floor jack requires picking it up, going up a flight a stairs and dragging it across a gravel driveway so I'm trying to save myself the work until I know it will work...

 

My front/center one does this also. I haven't decided how I'll go about resolving the issue yet. I know it's the hole itself, not the bolt.

 

You need to get an actual 90 zerk otherwise it’s damn near impossible to grease it even at full droop

 

Might be a nice Father’s Day task while the kid has a nap.




I’ve got quite the nice RA cart adding up, wouldn’t mind getting an HD leaf set made up as mine sit pretty flat with nothing in the bed. Hoping these Timbren bump stops help for now.

 

I'd be interested in a follow up review on the bump stops. I've been thinking of installing a set of those too.

 

Absolutely, I want to get a build thread going pretty soon so keep an eye out

 

Helicol?

 

Does anyone know if the driver and passenger seatbelt on an AC cab are the same/interchangable?

 

The belt or the latch? If you mean the latch, the metal portion bolting it down is physically bent at a slightly different angle between the two.

 

I mean the belt portion only

 

That I’m unsure.

 

Yeah mine too. At least with the one I just drilled out, I was shocked there were any threads at all left in the nut. I was pretty aggressive/sloppy and used a large bit. But I must have also over-tightened the other side at some point. Still, two half-stripped front skid plate bolts are better than one, which is what I had been working with till now.

Ahhh, a 90 zerk instead of a 90 degree grease gun fitting. Yeah I can easily picture how that will actually work. Thanks.

Might be the path. Maybe a tap & die set. I need one anyway, just haven't prioritized the expense yet.

 

start one. Good way to convince yourself to spend more money. Haha

 

Don’t think they’re interchangeable but if your seatbelt isn’t working properly, there are places that’ll repair them. Mailed to them and back took like a week when I sent my passenger side in. Think it was like $50

 

What was the company that folks on here used to have theirs re-wound? Safety Restore?

 

That’s who I used. Great service!

 

The only options I know are either rivnut or drill through and put a nut on a longer bolt. Several of my skids are utilizing rivnuts. When some of those fail, the longer bolt and nut come into play.
Skid plates are such a PITA.

 

Month and a half of ownership down, and several projects out of the way! This weekend was the timing belt, water pump, and all the parts that go along with that. Also replaced the left exhaust manifold, recharged the a/c, adjusted the e-brake, and finished the weekend with a brake fluid flush. Question for y'all... I went to replace the fog lamps, and broke three of the bolts right out the gate.. Stopped with the intent for more research. Any tips? I hit them with PB Blaster before the removal attempt. Is this a common issue?

 

I don't have an answer, as I don't have the metal front bumper like your 2000. But I am currious how to do a brake flush. I'm due, but I don't want to pay my mechanic to do it. Plus I want to upgrade my brakes soonish. So I need to learn these things.
Do you just bleed the brakes from all the bleeders and add fluid til it turns clear?

 

I have these things sitting in my cart. Almost bought today. I'm excited to hear some real world feedback.

 

Basically we used a pneumatic brake fluid vacuum pump to suck the fluid through the system and replace with fresh fluid. We removed the existing fluid from the reservoir, filled it with new, and then attached the vacuum to the furthest brake (passenger rear), and then moved to the driver rear, the passenger front, and finally the drivers front brake. We re-fill the reservoir after pulling half the fluid in the reservoir through each brake.

I've got the luxury of having a retired Mercedes shop foreman for a father. So a career worth of tools and 50 years of experience help a lot! YouTube, Google, and this forum are great places to guide you, but if you find you're out too far on a limb, nothing wrong with taking it to a shop!

 

I just found a video. Looks simple enough.
I've always been the one working the pedal, so I've never got to see the rest of the process til now.

 

Are you in the rust belt, or was the truck? If yes, how’s the frame, knowing that’s the #1 killer of these trucks?

 

I have the knockoff ones and they seem to handle weight pretty well. I posted some pictures in my build. Hauled a face cord of black locust firewood the other day and had some squat but nothing like before. They ride well and handle bumps pretty well, much better than the same size loads without.

 

Sounds like you skipped the lspv.

 

Mine is the same way, I think you're good

 

Super important step, especially if any air ever gets to enter the line. Also important if you want your rear brakes to function with load correctly. Sure seems like it doesn’t take much gunk to leave the LSPV inop.