Do I need shocks?

Okay, I just recently bought a 2018 Platinum, with 67k. The vehicle feels like it bounces around a little bit on rough roads and sometimes I can feel it in the steering wheel. I use to have a 2018 Sport bought it new and I feel like it shimmy's a little as well... I can't say I have experience any other Tundra's driving characteristics but I feel it's not quite normal. I know my 2016 Silverado LT drove so much smoother on the roads and it soaked up the roads and potholes pretty good.

As for tires, they are almost new Michelin LTX AT/2 with 7,000 miles on it (with proof of receipt and purchase date, miles), I had discount tires force balance it just the other day, they said it was slightly out-of-round. So, maybe it's not the tires.

I have aired the tire to 33/front, 34/back. When I first drove it, it was 42+ all around. I have noticed a slight difference between 40's and 30's. It actually drove really nice at 30 but that's a bit low.

So, being that it is close to 70k, should I change out the shocks? From what I've read here, I think the Bilstein 4600 would be ideal for me.

What I do not do,
1. Tow (yet)
2. Load it heavy in the bed

What I use this truck for,
1. commute to work
2. light DIY home repair, grocery getting, weekend fun etc

Thoughts?
Thanks!

 

I replaced mine(rears) around 130k~ because it felt like the bounce wasn't stopping. It was more of high frequency tremble that kept going a little longer than I think it should. After putting new gabriel shocks in, bounce stops sooner, but that tremble still happens just like with old ones.

When I took my old ones off, they actually felt very similar to brand new ones.I probably could've kept going with them. I load up my bed when starting new project and haul tools, but afterwards, its mostly just cruising empty.

 

A good way to tell is if it nose dives alot when you brake and kind of rocks back.

 

Platinums used the black shocks. Made by Tokico or Hitachi maybe. The sport and the TRD OR use a Bilstein shock similar to what a 4600 rides like. 4600s are a good replacement shock for these trucks. They ride a bit firmer than the factory black ones though.

 

You mean like instant dive? I would think nose will dive regardless, depending how heavy brake application is?

 

Yes, replace them. Got a 2018 in Sept 2024 with the same mileage. It made a big difference in ride quality for the better. Went with Eibach stage 1 shocks front and rear and kept factory springs. You will be happy.

 

Definitely Upgrade

 

I would replace them, but that’s just me. The Eibachs @caboj mentioned are a good choice if you are looking for a soft ride. They wallowed a little much in the corners for my liking, but my truck is far from light and empty. Bilstein 4600/510’s are also popular and inexpensive. They have a sportier ride and corner better, but you do get more road feedback.

One thing to check - are your leaf springs sagging at all and sitting on the overload? If so, the vehicle will ride poorly no matter the choice of shock absorber.

Regardless, I would avoid parts store brand shocks. Things may have changed, but they typically are not valved vehicle-specific. IME, you get a much better ride with vehicle-specific valving.

 

No it doesn't do any noise dive when braking hard. It is pretty stable but just shakes side to side, it feels like that.

 

Yes, I know that feeling!! lol I had a 2011 Sienna that I changed out the shocks/strut and it rode exactly the same.. :/ It had 60k on it as well, but the new ones felt no different.

 

I would have a good mechanic inspect and make sure they are bad before ever replacing. Stock shocks should last many years and abuse before change out.

check alignment too

air pressure OEM is 30 for front and 33 in back

 

There's no sag at all. The previous owner was a firefighter and he took care of the vehicle as far as i can tell, no towing, no heavy load, the bed is in excellent condition, no scraps or dents. Here's a side view photo.

 

Correct, black. Not like my old 18 Sport, blue Bilstein. I don't recall my sport riding any firmer. But I did comment in one of the forums here a while back about my ride being rough LOL. Any case, I want a smoother ride cause I'm getting old. It's night and day compared to my 23 sienna.

 

So how's the ride? Soft, firm, squishy around corners? I don't plan to lift my truck , stock height is fine for me. I do plan to maybe put the TRD sway bars front/rear in. I don't know if that's a good idea as I read it would stiffen the truck even more.

 

Ok.. yeah yesterday I aired it to 30 and it did ride so much better. It felt better and not so much wiggling around or side to side jarring motion.

You are correct, door jam is 30/33. I'll do that first.

 

Toyota cars, truck and SUV's. I've had nine new-from-the-dealer Toyotas over the years and at, or about, 60,000 miles the stock suspension was giving it's warning that it was time to have a replacement plan at the ready.

 

Yeah it will of course dive if you slam the brakes. If you notice it during normal braking then it's probably time.

 

Thank you, sorry was confiscate a little.

 

Appreciate this thread as I'm about due for new tires and need to decide if new shocks need to go on, too. I may only keep the truck another year or less (various conditions applying...) so weighing out the needs... Mine seem fine still at 76k but as with any ride, you get used to the gradual shifts of ride.
Interested to hear what the OP did and any differences noted...

 

I haven't don't anything yet. I'm considering Eibachs but haven't pulled the trigger.

My main goal isn't off road. I'm 99% road driving and maybe 1% gravel or forest service roads for camping. I definitely want a softer ride as the current stocks jump up and down on bumps and rough torn up city roads. Plus on some roads I can felt my steering wheel vibrate and shake a little.
But other times it's smooth.

Still debating if I want to spend $900 bucks.

 

If you're planning on keeping the truck long term, spend the extra money on the eibach pro2 kit. I'm getting ready to install the kit next week. I'm in your same situation...super bumpy ride but mine is a Sport 2wd and have the front and rear TRD sways that I'll likely be taking off the rear and eventually getting the RAS

 

Even if I just want the stock look?

 

Yeah. So the stage 2 kits are adjustable from 0"-2.75" front and 0"-1.5" rear. I got the PRO 2R which has the rear reservoir shocks. I got them based on mostly positive reviews from this site and you'll read the same from most. Either way, hit up @memario1214 for more detailed info.

Keep an eye out in the 2.5 gen threads, I'll be posting before and after pics soon as I got it installed but I'm gonna run larger tires than what I currently have, but I'm also going to install wheel spacers.

Here's how she sits now...

 

The ride is great, zero complaints. Freeway feels great, nice and smooth and supportive. Medium to slightly firm going slow on bumpy city streets which isn’t often. Better and supportive on the corners all over. For context stock weight, no real add ons to make it heavier other than subs. E rated tires at 40 PSI unless towing camper and rears go to 50. Install it yourself, was only $550 after some coupons.

 

Oh man. That's a nice price. Definitely would do it for that price

 

July 4th there will be coupons and sales all over. You can 100% do the rears, doesn’t get easier than that. For the fronts, read up and rent a spring compressor (and torque wrench if you don’t have one). Not too bad at all. Most people get stuck on fighting for space with the lower control arm. A ratchet strap to opposite wheel makes quick work of that and holds it open for you until done.

 

If you opt for the pro 2r kit the front Coilovers are adjustable. No coil compressor needed as they come pre loaded with new coils. I just installed this a week ago on my platinum and dialed them down to stock height. Love them. The ride is massively improved especially on the freeway. Rides the way a truck should instead of the bouncy boaty feel it had with the black hitachi shocks. Install was pretty simple and there are some solid videos that show exactly how to do it. I added durobump bump stops and already run TRD sways front and rear. Will be adding the RAS to the rear soon as well.

Highly recommended.

 

Yes, I was trying to find videos and this video describes what the differences are between the stage 1 and stage 2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IqVfgVgmubU&t

I guess the real difference according to the video is the r2 doesn't bottom out with the reservoir. I've done the rears on my 2011 Sienna a few years ago, it is easy and some videos I've watched shows it just as easy. Maybe the van is slightly harder since it's inside the cargo area. Install on the fronts don't look so bad either if it's a direct swap. Only concern is the cam being off after installing. Off course, I would have to mark it to get it as close to original as possible. Any concerns on alignment/steering off or should I just get an alignment done after installing?

 

I will be looking out for sales. It would be a good time for me to do it since I should be able to take some time off as I need to do all the major fluids as well.. fun times.

 

I'd recommend getting an alignment after install regardless. I didn't touch the cam bolts or tie rods during install other than unbolting the tie rods from the knuckle, and measured before/after heights to get mine close but definitely need to get it in and aligned in the next week or two. Just putting some miles on them now to break in and fine tune the ride height (driver's side has settled about 1/2" lower than pass side after about 300 miles, with them both set at the same 8 turns down from how they shipped). That said, since the height is basically the same as before I swapped them the alignment is not far off.