1st gen standard cab door latch question

Excellent. Thank you very much. I appreciate it.

 

Did anyone find 69320-0c010?

 

I think Toyota has officially disco'd it.

Since the time of this post, we've learned that several people were able to resurrect their latch using a grease dissolver agent, that a lot of the problems were coming from old grease getting gummy over time and causing the latch to stick. In other cases where the plastic liner on some of the metal wore away, it's not clear what action to take. I can't find any alternate part. Not even Partsouq and Amayama have it in stock.

 

Oh snap, the mechanics broke the latch to open the door. So now it’s a parts truck or door

 

To fix this. How can there be no parts. Hair pulling

 

So may anyone confirm or deny that an AC door would fit on a rclb ?

 

Random 2004 RC in EPC: https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tundra/vck30/3828/body/6751/?frame_no=5TBJN32114S442147
Random 2004 AC in EPC: https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tundra/uck40/3808/body/6751/?frame_no=5TBBT48164S452082

The part number is one digit off, but I think I know why. I think it probably fits just fine, but here's the rub....

I can't find any RC that has door trim/side moulding. I don't know that they ever made the AC trucks without the holes to install side moulding. So ultimately, without hacking things (welding holes shut), you can't just swap the door without filling the holes for side trim.

If you're more wondering about the door locking mechanism, the latch parts between AC/RC should technically be the same *IF* both trucks have power door locks. If not, you'll need to add a motor on.

 

And for the latch parts comparison, note the exploded has power lock in the bottom box, manual lock in top box.

04 RC: https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tundra/vck30/3828/body/6753/?frame_no=5TBJN32114S442147
04 AC: https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tundra/uck40/3808/body/6753/?frame_no=5TBBT48164S452082

The mechanisms appear identical.

 

That’s what I’m trying to get happening, is the power lock assembly mounted without the power lock features. Triple checking numbers to give best chance of fitting.

 

69040-0C010, this is the part number for driver latch assembly. It’s a power lock version, no power version is unavailable worldwide. I’ve tripochecked fitment, but I’d sure like anyone else’s opinion before I order more parts for my buddy’s rig. Thank you

 

PM me a VIN for the vehicle, I can try to confirm or deny the part number.

IIRC, @BubbaW cleared up in a prior post chatting with @daveeasa that the power and non-power door lock mechanism is the same base part, just with or without the solenoid.

I was running parts for @Hi06silver ‘s truck this week, a DC, and noticed that for his 06DC you can actually buy only the inside latch, or the full assembly, which is a difference of $125 vs $325. But for the 06 AC/RC, you can only buy the latch assembly, or maybe I should say, the EPC doesn’t show just the latch itself as a single part number.

 

I used the vin from my 04 to get that part number, my friend’s truck only comes up with the non powered lock. I just wanted someone else to say that the mechanisms worked in the exact way, just not hook up power to power lock. The power version is like $250, that’s $100 more than the unavailable non power lock.

 

I should have part in hand in next few days I don't know if that will help. Just FYI, after going back and forth with Shifty getting parts number and what not i.think.we determined the 1st dealership parts guy was incorrect on the part #he have me and to add insult to injury a lot of dealers sites seem to say "part may not fit" even after entering vin, when in fact they will fit after calling. One particular dealer I ended up ordering the latch from said that the site says that with almost all parts, apparently it's a glitch in their matrix. I verified fitment on the phone with several different dealers before ordering and finding best price.

 

https://onlineparts.toyotasouthatla...MtyU9GlDNypIYQo-QkKCi92D3PaFaKjjGFfH9HOcyK8oU

 

Worth noting that last part is for DC, not AC. The latch part numbers between AC and DC are different, sadly.

I can run up the part number for @rouxster70 's AC truck if needed. But we AC/RC folks can only buy the entire latch assembly, not just the latch, so it's a bit more spendy.

 

@rouxster70 if your friend's truck is a Double cab, you may want to check this reply: https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-lunch-table-general-discussion.60450/page-2635#post-3946887

 

Edit: it looks like it's not available anywhere anyways

Am Missing something? Is says w/o doublecab

 

His truck is rclb, it’s the part that’s mia worldwide 69320-0c010, it’s burned into my brain. I’ve never seen such a hard to find part

 

Yeah, it’s rough. A lot of people have found if they flood the latch with a good penetrant, like Kroil, and work the latch repeatedly, breaking up the old grease and stuff that accumulates between the tightly packed metal pieces over time, the latch will magically start working again.

 

The latch has been destroyed to get the door open, he brought it to a mechanic after I told him I needed the part before I break the old one. So I’m just helping put it back right. Ordered a lock assembly and was excited to see I could get the 0c010, but it was 04010 and we didn’t catch it till it was next to the pieces of the old one. Nothing jived, but it installed it and at least the door latches shut( he used bungee cords before). Now I’m just researching the correct part and best price.

 

Junkyard is legit your best bet…

 

I sold my old ones on marketplace here. But I don’t remember having trouble sourcing new ones and that wasn’t long ago. I didn’t see any possible reason why the powered lock wouldn’t work in a truck without power. There is no logical reason why it’d be problematic either outside of passenger handles without a key cylinder which isn’t an option as far as I’m aware?

I have some aftermarket power lock parts in a bin destined for my ‘05 which I’d imagine would work just fine for adding power locks to a first gen tundra as well. Not like the OEM keyless entry is good by any means, range sucks and the fobs suck and the tech is weak. But if you have it, tempting to keep using it.