Bad Driveshaft?

Anyone have any experience with a bad driveshaft on their first gen?

Any symptoms that are common?

 

Please, don't do that. Don't make us list off lists of sympoms because there are too many symptoms to list, and the way you're attacking the issue is assbackwards from the way any automotive diagnostics should start. Don't start by investigating symptoms others may have had, start by outling your specific symptoms so someone else can feed you a list of things to diagnose.

Really, you have two options to tackle your issue:

1. Tell us your symptoms, exactly. At what speeds do you feel something start or subside? Where you feel vibration, in the seat, in the steering wheel, in the floorboard, all the above? Does tapping on your brakes while you experience the feeling make it stop, or does it stay the same? Any other details, like, did you recently get new-to-you tires? Recently hit any curbs? Brake or other driveline work done? Anything look visually weird?
2. Go to Google.com and search driveshaft shop near me. Find one with 4.5+ stars nearby with at least 20-30 reviews. Call them up and explain to them what you're seeing, symptomwise, and ask if they do free diagnostics (many good shops will, if the bays aren't loaded up). Oh, and NEVER, EVER, EVER go to a chain store and ask them to check your driveshaft/u-joints/etc., anything in the driveline. PERIOD. This is one of two things on the car where you NEVER use a chain store: Driveline, air conditioning. Always use a specialty shop, it'll get done right the first time and almost always be cheaper than a chain store.

 

Hey man, so this is the second time you’ve left a crappy-ish message to a post of mine. I’m just asking for some help, and if you are just trying to be snarky, please refrain from answering.

That being said, I do appreciate the above advice you listed, but there’s no need for all the other stuff.

Thank you.

 

I don't know who you think I am, but "snarky" isn't my personality. You're new here, so I'll just assume you're applying a snarky tone onto my messages ... that's on you. If you need to know about me, feel free to ask around. I'm not the asshole I think you've painted me to be in your mind.

I'll continue to help if you want help, but if you're going to disregard that attempt to help and accuse me of being snarky, we're not going to get very far, brother. If you want help, then start with point #1. If you want to learn how most of us approach auto diagnostics and helping others, I've just outlined it for you above: You don't hunt for symptoms other people had in the past. You toss out the symptoms you're experiencing, so you can get input on, "what could this collection of symptoms point toward?"

 

@shifty` isn't wrong.

 

I think @shifty` contributes enough on here to be the next pope. He's earned the right to say whatever he wants honestly lol.

 

Alright, my apologies.

 

It’s the internet nobody’s upset lol.

 

Absolutely this. I spend too much time on here sometimes, especially when I should be focusing attention on my fledgling business. And that does lead to me being more direct/flippant sometimes. But ...

I don't ever want to have that right, nor be that guy, honestly. I tend to give way more than most, but it's something I can afford without screwing myself over. I'm selfish about some stuff, but knowledge and willingness to help aren't two of those areas

I'm a firm believer in putting out there into the world what you want to see. If people stop doing that, this place is gonna go totally down the shitter.

No need to apologize, dude. Just know, there aren't many assholes on this forum. If anyone is speaking in a way that seems direct, there's a number of reasons. Either shortage of time, or we've seen dozens and dozens of people shoot themselves in the foot with non-obvious (or sometimes very obvious) mistakes we're hoping to help someone avoid. Nobody likes to do things twice. Except those damn Texans.

But back to topic, @Beans1921 what are your symptoms?

 

I sometimes think @shifty` comments are snarky. But only when justified, and I kind enjoy it.

Maybe that’s my dark side talking.

 

Alright, rock on! @shifty`

Previously I was thinking it was an issue with transmission/torque converter; but after taking it out for a light drive since changing my transmission fluid, my main take away was some significant vibrations (shuddering) when brake is on and truck is in drive whilst stopped at a red light. Similar shuddering previously feeling felt under acceleration. (Which still happens)

No major rpm dips, it idles between 500-700ish at temp, and has done so for a while. Not sure if this is regular for the model?

Still no check engine, or other noticeable issues. There WAS a burning smell before changing my transmission fluid, but has since seemed to dissipate mostly, or I may have not noticed it.

Anyhow, if the problem is happening while not actively shifting, it’s got to be something else, (drivetrain?) right??? Maybe this can explain the loss of power and mpg I’ve experienced over the last year and a half? (My 1st ever post)

Recently I've driven next to some high concrete walls with the windows down to hear how it sounds from the exterior, and it definitely has a pronounced clicking sound, but it’s hard to exactly describe what it’s like.

To recap, I recently changed the transmission fluid (as a means to start at square one both financially and mechanically) and nothing has changed. Again, I’m not the most mechanically inclined and I’m definitely not at the best position financially for a big fix at a shop, so I'm just putting some feelers out to y'all before I do take it in to drop serious money or worse, get stranded/cause an accident!

Again, my apologies to Shifty for my earlier response. I understand that was a miscommunication on my end and did not wish to offend. Thank you for your understanding and continuance of support!

 

Have you had a look at your engine mounts? Just something I would check if there is vibration while stopped and in gear.

 

First thing that came to mind when reading this is "caliper piston sticking". Shuddering under acceleration, burning smell, all could be caused by a caliper having a stuck piston. And if there were issues with piston sticking while braking at a stop light, you might have some releasing and grabbing.

Have you noticed anything weird while braking, maybe it pulls a little bit one direction? Have you popped off the front wheels recently and inspected the brake pads thru the open pad install/remove window at the top of the caliper to see if the pads are all worn evenly, or look for the condition of the rotors?

Also, when you checked transmission fluid level after drain/fill, you did it by the book, checked level with engine running, on level ground, and used the correct "window" on the dipstick, there's one pair of notches for checking hot, and another pair for checking cold.

But @ATBAV8 is also right. Engine mounts or too-low idle would also cause a shaky/stumbly/rumbly experience with brakes on at the stop light. Remember, your booster is pulling vacuum off the engine via that rubber hose coming off the booster, going to the back of the intake.

If this happens while stationary at a light, it's almost certainly not something in your driveline, i.e. from the output of the transmission back to the rear axle. Your driveshaft isn't in rotation in that situation.

 

I'm only going to bring this up because I think it's important, but @shifty` first post is 100% correct and justified. It's becoming quite obvious that @Beans1921 described symptoms are pointing to things other than the driveline. This is how it's supposed to work. Describe symptoms, derive answers.

 

I'd add though: @Beans1921 is giving a great set of symptoms to run with. Good descriptions. Prior burning smell. Listed off the recent work done. Problem existed before and after recent maintenance. Absence of codes. Happens while in motion and while not in motion. These are all kickass descriptions which are what a LOT of people coming here for help tend to leave out. These are the kinds of details that help rule out stuff.

You solve problems by exclusion faster than anything. If we're starting with infinite possible causes and one symptom rules out all but 5 things, we're light years ahead. Now, if we can find another symptom that rules out 2 more, we only have 3 possibles. It's really easy to test for 3 things, but more difficult to test for 5, and impossible to test for infinite. Once you have a small enough set of "possibles", you can use deductive logic to hone in on the issue (usually).

Like, because it has happened while in motion and at the stop light when all rolling/rotational masses (other than transmission/engine) are stationary, it rules out a hell of a lot of stuff: Driveshaft, bearings, wheels, axles. Now it's just a matter of figuring out, is it the engine, the torque converter, the transmission, possibly vacuum/air volume related, or brakes?

 

Sorry for the delay in response! I’m still scratching my head with it, but will be getting into a shop soon. I appreciate everyone’s help on this! I’ll keep y'all posted on what’s up!

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/i-eAmyF8sSA?si=cfgthtLM3JIjUZ_M

Here’s a link to a YouTube short I created where you can faintly hear some of that idle sputter I previously talked about. Took it for a short drive to get it warmed up, didn’t get above 30mph and only noticed said sputtering when at a stop sign, shortly after resuming driving, and general low speeds. Haven’t taken it above 40 since everything started happening but it’s a similar issue when at speed. I can feel a gentle shudder with each “puff.”

 

That's intake manifold gaskets.

https://youtu.be/NxYVy9Gntu8?si=_9cHSc8IsBRS2Thx

 

Only use OEM gaskets!

That guy knows why!! ^^

On the OEM gaskets, the tab points toward the fenders, with the white side facing up. (One side of the tab is white)

 

OK, now that I've got a little time to post, take a bottle torch and put some gas down by where the head/intake meet. If it idles up you got bad gaskets. I'd bet money that's what it is though. I've had that intake off 3 times for shitty gaskets alone. OEM is the way to go. Felpro will probably work as well, but they're untested.

Don't let the job intimidate you; it's not hard to pull the intake. Just pull the TB off and let it hang, and keep track of what order the washers are in on the fuel pulse damper on the fuel rail. It takes a 22mm wrench. You can use the nipple on top and stick your other hand in the TB hole to lift up and out. Takes about 45 minutes. If you have any questions PM me or tag me.

I should really do a write-up on how to pull that intake...

 

Thank you!!! Could this solely be the root of the main issues I’ve been having? Or will I not know until completing that? Thank you again!

 

Well, just got it fixed and after all of that, it was a misfire from a bad ignition coil! Got all 8 replaced and new spark plugs and it’s running like a top! Thanks to everyone for your advice and help!

 

Hope you went OEM Denso...

 

Yep!