Progression.

Edit: 2006 Tundra limited. 4.7l

Have installed Full AISIN timing kit.
Radiator, alternator, radiator fan clutch bearing bracket, idler pulley, tensioner bearing (only reason I used the old tensioner was because it had twice the strength of new one I picked up)…...

I still have a squeak that sounds like a bearing dry. Quiets down a little after a minute or two but can I still hear it when revving up to 2-3k rpm. Wife can’t.

I didn’t originally replace the fan clutch bearing bracket, but took it down yesterday morning and replaced it (AISIN) which got rid of 90% of noise. but I still have some.
Only thing seems to be left would may be a/c pulley, but not familiar if these new models can do that, or fan clutch, though it seems fine. Or maybe the new fan belt needs to break in more.

Only have about 200 miles on it since replacing timing belt.
Driving me nuts so any ideas are appreciated.

 

Easy test: Remove the serpentine belt. Start the engine. Is the noise there?

 

Took belt off last night. Cranked it up this morning for one minute.
No squeaks, or chirps.
Will do it again this evening when I get home to double check. I’m

Getting drive shaft rebalanced, I get it back, as long as it still sounds good this evening without belt guess I’ll just drive it. (apparently whoever replaced carrier bearing before wasn’t too accurate putting it back together cause I can feel it’s just a little out of balance.)

Turning a/c on, or off, and running until fan kicks in doesn’t change the noise so I’m stumped.

 

Yeah. So there's you're answer: Something that's engaged by your serpentine belt is causing your sound, or your belt is the actual problem. That happened recently, some guy on here went with an aftermarket belt from the local parts store and it squealed like a SOB. I've had zero issues with the green Gates HD belt, and neither have others. But if the belt didn't change in your case ...

That could be a failing belt tensioner not keeping proper tension on the belt, or one of the bearings in the parts you installed (something with a pulley) is failing.

With the belt off, spin each pulley. Are any of them tight, loose, wobbly, crunchy, squeaky?

Part-wise, did you use store brand on anything? Store brand aftermarket parts are, sadly, complete and utter shit these days.

 

One thing I was concerned about was possible defective pulleys on timing parts.

Only parts I can think of not AISIN were
the tensioner pulley (gates maybe) and alternator (best reman rock auto had in stock, no new were available when I ordered).

I stopped by parts house on way home picked up a gates.
Had them look, and apparently I got a Murray belt before.

Cranked it up without belt again.
No squeaks. No chirps.
Put the Gates belt on, and she been purring like a kitten for 10 minutes. No squeaks or chirps even a 3.

Thanks for the help @Shifty

Looking forward to getting my driveshaft back, and putting a few more miles on her.

I agree on new parts being crap. have ran across several bad (new) ecm’s on my old gmc before getting a good one.

 

In a pinch, I'd accept a Bosch alternator and expect it to last as long as OEM. I've used their stuff before, it's solid.

But yeah. Sounds like the belt was your problem. That's twice in less than 10 days, crazy eh?

They really don't make parts like they used to ... You'd think with something like a belt, they'd get it right, eh?!

Now you know why everyone tells you to NEVER use non-OEM brand timing belts

 

Yep.

100%

 

Have to say I have enjoyed this so far.
When I worked in mechanic machine shop a few decades ago my hobby was finding old gutted trucks, many without engines. One had most wiring harnesses stripped out. (That one was a bugger)
Find an engine someone had setting around, tear it apart, bore it out, and rebuild it. Put a small cam and port the heads a for a little extra umph. Get it back on the road.

Wouldn’t want to rebuild one now as don’t have a dust free place to assemble.

Done so far:
New: Denso radiator.
AISIN thermostat.
Flushed coolant system.

New axle seal passenger rear (someone installed and wasn’t on the shaft properly)
Changed rear differential fluid.

New AISIN timing kit.
All new pulley bearings.

Rear brakes.

Oil change.

Retorque valve cover gaskets.

New spark plugs.

New inner tie rod ends, and boots.

New carrier bearing,
One new u-joint.
Driveshaft at shop being balanced.

Still on list:
transfer case oil.
Change Front differential oil.
Flush power steering.
Flush brake lines.
Passenger side outside front door handle clip.

And now Have to find me a driver side, inside door handle. I was really tired working on it late one night after putting in 13 hour work day, working on the tundra. and forgot it’s not a gmc... Tried to open the door like it was. ‍ I broke the door handle.
I quit for the day.

Also time to put new radiator on wife’s 4 runner.

 

Went and picked up my driveshaft this morning.

I was right. Who ever replaced the previous carrier bearing got it out of time.
Apparently they pulled off the slip yoke for some reason, and put it back on 180 degrees out.
Drives great now.

 

We often warn people about clocking the driveshaft correctly. But we’ve had to repost the “here’s the by the FSM way” graphic quite a few times.

 

Midnight already ran good, but when i changed plugs could see more carbon on pistons than I like to see (I had an engine ruined from previous owner running cheap gas) so I ran some ATS 505 fuel treatment through it to clean injectors, and hopefully start getting some of the carbon out.
Idle, and acceleration is definitely smoother.

Also took a little time and started on cleaning up the headlight glaze. Looking better.




have also gotten Transfer case, and front differential oil changed as well as flushed power steering.

 

Probably not necessary to say here…..Stay away from linglong crosswind!

They were on truck when we bought it, and it’s hard to hold off buying some new Michelins right now!

They have good tread but are the Hardest riding: I think you could feel running over a needle on a smooth road: most non-responsive tires I’ve ever ran across. Like riding on cheap E rated tires aired to the max.

Want to put money towards LBJ’s before new tires.

 

Got it filled up.
17.5 gallons in 287 miles.
I was surprised: got slightly over 16mpg considering all the stop and go traffic I been driving it in, quick take offs, rolling resistance of cheap tires etc, plus had it up to 80mph a few times before tire stability had me backing out of it. I wasn’t expecting anywhere near that.

I did have gas treatment in last half of that tank though to clean jets, and fuel systems that might have helped on fuel mileage.

 

I'M MAD!!

Took it to front end shop I been going to for years right after got it, and told them to go over it with a fine tooth comb, and tell me everything they could find.
Thinking the front end "mechanic" who installed my inner tie rod ends, and aligned the truck must have gotten it off, because it pulling slightly to the left, then the right, and takes too much turning of steering wheel to get it to respond.
Had my wife help me, and I checked my front end today.

Also told him to replace carrier bearing.
According to the front end mechanic only thing wrong was inner tie rod end, and that my carrier bearing was good that it was my slip yoke worn out causing the problem, and I should take it to a drive shaft repair shop.

Even though slightly doubtful I took his word without looking, and ordered a new drive shaft. When I installed I realized he didn't know what he was talking about because it was the carrier bearing. Installed New drive shaft had improper carrier bearing that squealed every time I took off, and bad u-joints so got a new carrier bearing for old one, had it balanced and been using it since so I should have doubted the rest of his evaluation.

When installing the tie rod ends Mechanic did tell the owner to tell me I would need new rack and pinion soon, as it was seeping fluid. ATS 205 stopped that

He didn't say a WORD about rack bushings being bad! And you can't do a proper alignment if the rack is moving over half an inch both directions.

Been biting my tongue, but I need to tell the owner his mechanic isn't good. 3 times he been wrong on my truck, and four times he been under it. Didn't realize he had only been there 2 years, and not the same one who was so good and thorough.

Should have been good to go by now.

 

Working on the rack bushings today.
What a mess. Had to break out the 800lb torque impact.
Don't know for sure it was the front end mechanic: from looking at the bolts, and knowing he was last to touch it I have a sneaky feeling he didn't want to call, and say he had missed something: but instead of saying it needed rack bushings someone decided to tighten the living fool out of all the bolts trying to take up the slack, and drove the nut threads into the shoulders of the bolts/studs.

Going to heat the last stud later, and see if I can keep it from stripping the anchor nut in the frame. Already tried the 250lb torque impact on the stud, and it won't budge it. I really don't want to put the big one on that stud.

At my age I really don't like crawling around under a vehicle, but from the headache the mechanic of tire shop I've taken it too, has caused me guess I'm going to have to start climbing under and checking everything myself.
I called the owner of tire shop last week about all the things his mechanic has been wrong on and fact he installed the inner tie rods, and gave it an alignment without calling to say the rack bushings were completely gone. He said he would take care of it, and I would get a free alignment when I installed my parts.
His previous mechanic was awesome.

 

Going to have to get some new hardware.
Might be able to salvage this nut.

 

Old bushings were bad enough just stuck socket over it and tapped it couple times with a hammer and out it came. No heat needed.

New ones in, but still hanging because stripped stud. Don’t know how going to go about fixing it yet. Rounded off trying to get out even after heating it up at the frame.

Going to need a cutting or rosebud tip.

Also. I opted for the chaos bushings.
The center bushing went together the way it should.
The driver side: the steel guide bushing was too large OD for poly bushing, and had to be sanded down to get it to drive in, and even then it was a really hard bugger to get in.

 

Got threads chased in frame, and since I don’t want to wait couple weeks for a new stud working on making me a stud out of a grade 8 bolt. Die supposed to be here tomorrow.

When I’m done I shouldn’t ever have to worry about a front end tech running nut up on shoulder of stud again.

 

Got it back together.
No slack at all in the steering now. Pulling slightly to right now though.

When putting rack back together the way I took it apart bracket didn't look right. Even though stud I made had lower shoulders than factory stud turning bracket so hole is on bottom also places the shorter sleeve at bottom, and would result in nut being very close to hitting shoulder.

Did some research, and the FSM does show hole in bracket and short sleeve at bottom, BUT looking at several video tear downs, hole is always at the top.
Looking further I could see the impression on the old grommet. The hole in bracket and short sleeve had originally been on the top, although could tell it had recently been turned to place it at the bottom which seems to have resulted in my problems of dealing with ruined stud.


Since I made stud, and doesn't have the locking function I put blue loc-tite on short end of stud that goes in the frame bracket.
I forgot how hard it was to thread a bolt over grade 7.
Funny thing was the die had the "start this side" on wrong side of die. I just wonder how hard it would have been to get bolt threaded if someone had never used dies before, and didn't know any better.

 

Finally got the LBJ done today.
Left side was easy.
On the Right side: Fairly much ruined a ball joint separator, and a pitman arm puller trying to get it broke loose.
Tighten up the pitman arm puller as much as I could then hammer on the lower control arm close to ball joint with 4lb hammer, then tighten some more, repeat.
Mushroomed the heck out of the pitman arm puller from the pressure.

Even though I don't want to spend money yet going to go ahead and get some tires this week.

Strange thing: I don't have the quite the vibration on the road now.
I couldn't even break the lug nuts loose with a 600LB torque impact. It took a 3 foot breaker bar on a long break over bar to break my lugs loose. I'm wondering if actually torquing the wheels might have helped something.

 

Who/what put on the lug nuts previously? That's absurd, and yes, over-tightening will mess things up and cause vibrations. You're lucky the stud didn't shear, I'd be shocked if the threads aren't stretched on the stud(s) that were overtorqued.

 

A tire shop. No local tire shops use torque wrenches. They just hammer on it with impact until they think it's tight enough.
Someone familiar with an impact can set one and get it close, but most don't keep people long enough to get the experience to know when to stop.
Some of them look a little pulled stretched.
I plan to tell them to find a torque wrench, and use it when I get tires this week, or I will find a tire shop willing to use one, and take my business to them.

 

At my local Discount Tire, I always request torquing to spec. And when they see the truck, they usually understand I'm not just some fuckhole off the street with a Honda on steelies and I've never had to holler. The Toyo/Lex specialty shop I get to do my alignments and occasionally wheel/tire, they only torque lug nuts on. I personally wouldn't use shops that don't offer torquing to spec. Some shops will impact with torque sticks, but I swear those damn things aren't and have never been remotely accurate IMPE.

 

I'm hoping owner of place I buy my stuff from will do it. If not I'll check with the only other tire shop we have.
If worse comes to play I'll take my own torque wrench in, and do it myself.
We kind of limited on choices here. We used to have 3 but one got destroyed by a tornado last year.
The next closest is 70 miles.

 

Ouch. Yeah, that's rough. I guess that's one way - as much as I don't love living as deep in the city as I do - that I benefit from living in the city.

 

Living in the boonies means we have to do best to plan ahead, and try to buy locally. Ordering them, or going way out of town I loose all the road hazard, flats and free rotate.

 

I always tell the tire shop to torque my FGT wheels to 83 ft-lbs. If they say anything about setting impacts to that, I politely tell them I’ll buy my tires at a shop that does it correctly. For the past twenty years I’ve been using the same local independent tire shop and he does good work and his prices are competitive. Once I took my truck to get a leaking valve stem replaced and he had a new kid who proceeded to remove my lugs with an impact socket through the plastic center cap on my Patrick’s. When I said something to him, the kid tried to claim that’s how it’s done because old plastic is brittle and the center caps don’t need to be removed. The owner offered to buy new ones when I told him the kid had scuffed the plastic center caps but I told him since he was so honest about it we could just forget about it.

@Redoak - If your lugs were torqued that excessively, recommend replacing all. A member recent posted losing a wheel on the highway. That can kill you or someone else.

 

Rolled the truck. Looking at the aftermath, frankly, I was shocked dude was alive and not injured significantly. Granted he was in a DC and had more airbags. Had it been an AC or even worse a RC, I don't think the outcome would have been as positive.

 

I'll probably replace when I adjust back brakes, and replace the front pads.

I gotta figure out what lug nuts cause I have after market wheels that were on it when I bought it.
I've always had mine stock before this one.

 

Believe me, I'm familiar. I've lived everywhere from the sticks and bayous to the suburbs and exurbs to the deep city. Never in apartments, virtually always standalone homes. Each one has its own unique pros/cons. When we ultimately migrate out of the city, we will likely be rural area of 6k people or less. But ... it's gonna take a few years to get there. And I will probably be doing a lot of my own work due to absence of good service nearby, versus my current situation of doing work because I can find so few people I trust enough when I know how to do it myself.