Progression.

Edit: 2006 Tundra limited. 4.7l

Have installed Full AISIN timing kit.
Radiator, alternator, radiator fan clutch bearing bracket, idler pulley, tensioner bearing (only reason I used the old tensioner was because it had twice the strength of new one I picked up)…...

I still have a squeak that sounds like a bearing dry. Quiets down a little after a minute or two but can I still hear it when revving up to 2-3k rpm. Wife can’t.

I didn’t originally replace the fan clutch bearing bracket, but took it down yesterday morning and replaced it (AISIN) which got rid of 90% of noise. but I still have some.
Only thing seems to be left would may be a/c pulley, but not familiar if these new models can do that, or fan clutch, though it seems fine. Or maybe the new fan belt needs to break in more.

Only have about 200 miles on it since replacing timing belt.
Driving me nuts so any ideas are appreciated.

 

Easy test: Remove the serpentine belt. Start the engine. Is the noise there?

 

Took belt off last night. Cranked it up this morning for one minute.
No squeaks, or chirps.
Will do it again this evening when I get home to double check. I’m

Getting drive shaft rebalanced, I get it back, as long as it still sounds good this evening without belt guess I’ll just drive it. (apparently whoever replaced carrier bearing before wasn’t too accurate putting it back together cause I can feel it’s just a little out of balance.)

Turning a/c on, or off, and running until fan kicks in doesn’t change the noise so I’m stumped.

 

Yeah. So there's you're answer: Something that's engaged by your serpentine belt is causing your sound, or your belt is the actual problem. That happened recently, some guy on here went with an aftermarket belt from the local parts store and it squealed like a SOB. I've had zero issues with the green Gates HD belt, and neither have others. But if the belt didn't change in your case ...

That could be a failing belt tensioner not keeping proper tension on the belt, or one of the bearings in the parts you installed (something with a pulley) is failing.

With the belt off, spin each pulley. Are any of them tight, loose, wobbly, crunchy, squeaky?

Part-wise, did you use store brand on anything? Store brand aftermarket parts are, sadly, complete and utter shit these days.

 

One thing I was concerned about was possible defective pulleys on timing parts.

Only parts I can think of not AISIN were
the tensioner pulley (gates maybe) and alternator (best reman rock auto had in stock, no new were available when I ordered).

I stopped by parts house on way home picked up a gates.
Had them look, and apparently I got a Murray belt before.

Cranked it up without belt again.
No squeaks. No chirps.
Put the Gates belt on, and she been purring like a kitten for 10 minutes. No squeaks or chirps even a 3.

Thanks for the help @Shifty

Looking forward to getting my driveshaft back, and putting a few more miles on her.

I agree on new parts being crap. have ran across several bad (new) ecm’s on my old gmc before getting a good one.

 

In a pinch, I'd accept a Bosch alternator and expect it to last as long as OEM. I've used their stuff before, it's solid.

But yeah. Sounds like the belt was your problem. That's twice in less than 10 days, crazy eh?

They really don't make parts like they used to ... You'd think with something like a belt, they'd get it right, eh?!

Now you know why everyone tells you to NEVER use non-OEM brand timing belts

 

Yep.

100%

 

Have to say I have enjoyed this so far.
When I worked in mechanic machine shop a few decades ago my hobby was finding old gutted trucks, many without engines. One had most wiring harnesses stripped out. (That one was a bugger)
Find an engine someone had setting around, tear it apart, bore it out, and rebuild it. Put a small cam and port the heads a for a little extra umph. Get it back on the road.

Wouldn’t want to rebuild one now as don’t have a dust free place to assemble.

Done so far:
New: Denso radiator.
AISIN thermostat.
Flushed coolant system.

New axle seal passenger rear (someone installed and wasn’t on the shaft properly)
Changed rear differential fluid.

New AISIN timing kit.
All new pulley bearings.

Rear brakes.

Oil change.

Retorque valve cover gaskets.

New spark plugs.

New inner tie rod ends, and boots.

New carrier bearing,
One new u-joint.
Driveshaft at shop being balanced.

Still on list:
Change transfer case oil.
Change Front differential oil.
Flush power steering.
Flush brake lines.
Passenger side outside front door handle clip.

And now Have to find me a driver side, inside door handle. I was really tired working on it late one night after putting in 13 hour work day, working on the tundra. and forgot it’s not a gmc... Tried to open the door like it was. ‍ I broke the door handle.
I quit for the day.

Also time to put new radiator on wife’s 4 runner.

 

Went and picked up my driveshaft this morning.

I was right. Who ever replaced the previous carrier bearing got it out of time.
Apparently they pulled off the slip yoke for some reason, and put it back on 180 degrees out.
Drives great now.

 

We often warn people about clocking the driveshaft correctly. But we’ve had to repost the “here’s the by the FSM way” graphic quite a few times.

 

Midnight already ran good, but when i changed plugs could see more carbon on pistons than I like to see (I had an engine ruined from previous owner running cheap gas) so I ran some ATS 505 fuel treatment through it to clean injectors, and hopefully start getting some of the carbon out.
Idle, and acceleration is definitely smoother.

Also took a little time and started on cleaning up the headlight glaze. Looking better.




have also gotten Transfer case, and front differential oil changed as well as flushed power steering.

 

Probably not necessary to say here…..Stay away from linglong crosswind!

They were on truck when we bought it, and it’s hard to hold off buying some new Michelins right now!

They have good tread but are the Hardest riding: I think you could feel running over a needle on a smooth road: most non-responsive tires I’ve ever ran across. Like riding on cheap E rated tires aired to the max.

Want to put money towards LBJ’s before new tires.

 

Got it filled up.
17.5 gallons in 287 miles.
I was surprised: got slightly over 16mpg considering all the stop and go traffic I been driving it in, quick take offs, rolling resistance of cheap tires etc, plus had it up to 80mph a few times before tire stability had me backing out of it. I wasn’t expecting anywhere near that.

I did have gas treatment in last half of that tank though to clean jets, and fuel systems that might have helped on fuel mileage.

 

I'M MAD!!

Took it to front end shop I been going to for years right after got it, and told them to go over it with a fine tooth comb, and tell me everything they could find.
Thinking the front end "mechanic" who installed my inner tie rod ends, and aligned the truck must have gotten it off, because it pulling slightly to the left, then the right, and takes too much turning of steering wheel to get it to respond.
Had my wife help me, and I checked my front end today.

Also told him to replace carrier bearing.
According to the front end mechanic only thing wrong was inner tie rod end, and that my carrier bearing was good that it was my slip yoke worn out causing the problem, and I should take it to a drive shaft repair shop.

Even though slightly doubtful I took his word without looking, and ordered a new drive shaft. When I installed I realized he didn't know what he was talking about because it was the carrier bearing. Installed New drive shaft had improper carrier bearing that squealed every time I took off, and bad u-joints so got a new carrier bearing for old one, had it balanced and been using it since so I should have doubted the rest of his evaluation.

When installing the tie rod ends Mechanic did tell the owner to tell me I would need new rack and pinion soon, as it was seeping fluid. ATS 205 stopped that

He didn't say a WORD about rack bushings being bad! And you can't do a proper alignment if the rack is moving over half an inch both directions.

Been biting my tongue, but I need to tell the owner his mechanic isn't good. 3 times he been wrong on my truck, and four times he been under it. Didn't realize he had only been there 2 years, and not the same one who was so good and thorough.

Should have been good to go by now.

 

Working on the rack bushings today.
What a mess. Had to break out the 800lb torque impact.
Don't know for sure it was the front end mechanic: from looking at the bolts, and knowing he was last to touch it I have a sneaky feeling he didn't want to call, and say he had missed something: but instead of saying it needed rack bushings someone decided to tighten the living fool out of all the bolts trying to take up the slack, and drove the nut threads into the shoulders of the bolts/studs.

Going to heat the last stud later, and see if I can keep it from stripping the anchor nut in the frame. Already tried the 250lb torque impact on the stud, and it won't budge it. I really don't want to put the big one on that stud.

At my age I really don't like crawling around under a vehicle, but from the headache the mechanic of tire shop I've taken it too, has caused me guess I'm going to have to start climbing under and checking everything myself.
I called the owner of tire shop last week about all the things his mechanic has been wrong on and fact he installed the inner tie rods, and gave it an alignment without calling to say the rack bushings were completely gone. He said he would take care of it, and I would get a free alignment when I installed my parts.
His previous mechanic was awesome.

 

Going to have to get some new hardware.
Might be able to salvage this nut.

 

Old bushings were bad enough just stuck socket over it and tapped it couple times with a hammer and out it came. No heat needed.

New ones in, but still hanging because stripped stud. Don’t know how going to go about fixing it yet. Rounded off trying to get out even after heating it up at the frame.

Going to need a cutting or rosebud tip.

Also. I opted for the chaos bushings.
The center bushing went together the way it should.
The driver side: the steel guide bushing was too large OD for poly bushing, and had to be sanded down to get it to drive in, and even then it was a really hard bugger to get in.

 

Got threads chased in frame, and since I don’t want to wait couple weeks for a new stud working on making me a stud out of a grade 8 bolt. Die supposed to be here tomorrow.

When I’m done I shouldn’t ever have to worry about a front end tech running nut up on shoulder of stud again.