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Will a double cab radiator fit on the access cab?

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by TurboDennis, May 24, 2025 at 9:40 PM.

  1. May 24, 2025 at 9:40 PM
    #1
    TurboDennis

    TurboDennis [OP] New Member

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    Hi. Been lurking the forums for a while and was able to find the answers to most of my questions until now.

    I picked up a 2005 AC recently to be used as an occasional work truck. Did a bunch of "baselining" to it over the last few weeks - new starter (fun job on the VVTI engine!), alternator, timing belt, brakes, spark plugs etc.

    I will need to tow a pretty heavy load (6000lbs) through a mountain area soon. The radiator on the truck looks old and tired, and i figured i'd replace it as a precaution. Looking at the parts diagrams, it seems like the RC/AC have a smaller radiator compared to DC - DC's is 1 inch taller core (same width and thickness). If I'm buying a new radiator, i would prefer to get the larger one for more cooling capacity for doing heavy hauling. Would i be able to install the larger DC rad into my AC, and what else would i need to change to make it fit? Looking at it, the upper/lower rad hoses might be different, but should have enough flex in them to reach an extra 0.5-1". Fan shroud perhaps?
    Thanks in advance!
     
  2. May 25, 2025 at 1:18 AM
    #2
    j_supra

    j_supra Dreamin about boooost!

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    I was in the exact same predicament a few months ago about finding a radiator for my 06. Couldn't find a concrete answer so ended up just getting an access cab radiator. I don't think the double cab one fits. If it did, you would think they just share the same part number and rad across all cab. But I could be wrong.

    And yea the starter is a pain on any UZ engine but I'd say it's easiest on the 2uz vvti since it's a plastic intake with o-ring seal. Easy clean up and could probably get away with just throwing it back on with the same o-rings if they look ok.
     
  3. May 25, 2025 at 2:20 AM
    #3
    w666

    w666 D. None of the above

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    None yet
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  4. May 25, 2025 at 4:13 AM
    #4
    shifty`

    shifty` All my rowdy friends have settled down

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    No x2

    Curious, why’d you need to replace the starter? They almost never fail unless they’re aftermarket, parts-store brand. Failure to start, vast majority of the time, ties back to other stuff.
     
  5. May 25, 2025 at 4:53 AM
    #5
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Blessed 2 B above Ground

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    You do you but given the capacity of an AC/RC compared to a DC is minimal, do you really want to go thru trouble of trying to mount a DC properly where an AC hangs and possibly have to find a DC shroud also.
    Sure ain't much bang for the buck.

    05 Radiator.jpg
     
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  6. May 25, 2025 at 4:58 AM
    #6
    shifty`

    shifty` All my rowdy friends have settled down

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    Interesting, that 1” only translates to 0.1qt, or less than half a cup of fluid. That would be about as much fluid capacity as you’d get if you cut 1” off the bottom of a beer/coke can.
     
  7. May 25, 2025 at 5:07 AM
    #7
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Blessed 2 B above Ground

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    It's early but if we're to believe the OM, it's .5 qt or ~ 2 cups. I doubt seriously if 1/2 or 2 cups is gonna make that 2UZ any happier but the mind can play tricks on some folks.
     
  8. May 25, 2025 at 5:14 AM
    #8
    shifty`

    shifty` All my rowdy friends have settled down

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    Only if you read the correct specs. :rofl:

    No coffee here yet. I was reading the manual vs auto numbers, 9.1/9.2

    Maybe it’s time to go grab that cup of crude.
     
  9. May 25, 2025 at 5:18 AM
    #9
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Blessed 2 B above Ground

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    Go for it and given it's Memorial wkend, add a little Jack even if it's a little early :cool:
     
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  10. May 25, 2025 at 5:33 AM
    #10
    shifty`

    shifty` All my rowdy friends have settled down

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    Gotta stay mostly sober, I’m designated griller for cookout later today. Ever since I cut waaaay back on the adult juice, “a little goes a long way”. Suddenly I'm a cheap date, she’s the one who racks up the drink bills :rofl:
     
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  11. May 25, 2025 at 7:49 AM
    #11
    TurboDennis

    TurboDennis [OP] New Member

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    The part numbers are definitely different, but looking at the exact dimensions of the 2 radiators, the DC is 1" higher. No other difference. All the ports and mounting holes seems to be in the same locations. So i can't really see it being that much trouble to mount the the DC radiator. I doubt that there are any differences on the truck side (radiator support). At worst, i suspect i'll have to change to the matching fan shroud and maybe the matching upper rad hose. But i was hoping someone had a concrete answer.

    And yes, there isnt a huge size/capacity difference between the 2 rads, but they're also essentially the same price. If Toyota engineers decided to go through the trouble of speccing a different rad for the double cab, there must be a benefit..

    As for the starter, i've decided to replace it "while i was at it" when doing the timing belt. The old one didnt have any issues. I've replaced them before a bunch of times on 2UZ Land Cruisers (i work on LC's for a living), but never on one with the SAIS. I didn't realize how much more complex the job would get on the VVTI/SAIS engine. If i had known, i'd leave it alone...

    I also removed the driver's side exhaust manifold on the thing to fix the typical cracks while i was doing the starter/timing belt.
     
  12. May 25, 2025 at 7:54 AM
    #12
    shifty`

    shifty` All my rowdy friends have settled down

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    Did you core the old starter, or shelf it? Just curious. Toyota has started to disco a lot of their parts. Fuel pumps in the earlier years being one, and alternators are getting scarce lately for the earlier years too. You can't post a for-sale thread 'til you hit 50 legit, non-spammy posts, but I suspece some folks would give a better-than-core-value dollar amount on a good factory starter. Hopefully you wrapped the knock sensor wires and harnesses with rodent tape while you had the lid popped.

    I think the sole logic behind the taller radiator on the DC is twofold: One, the DC is a Sequoia with a bed, essentially build on the Sequoia platform so the radiator is more "Sequoia oriented" than the original '00-'03 Tundra chassis, and two, the fenders and bed are naturally taller on the Sequoia/DC Tundra, hence why the Sequoia likely had the taller radiator.

    We have had a couple people on here pick up the wrong part number. Denso's part number ends -0517 on one, -0518 on the other IIRC. And those that bought the wrong one complained it wouldn't fit - I never heard more detail than that.
     
  13. May 25, 2025 at 8:09 AM
    #13
    TurboDennis

    TurboDennis [OP] New Member

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    I shelved the old (original starter). Would cost me almost as much to ship it back as the actual "core charge", so there was no point to return it. I don't suspect i will ever need it though - the Tundra will rust out long before the new starter goes bad. But yeah, if someone wants it, PM me.

    Didn't wrap the knock sensor wires. Maybe i should've..

    Interesting insight on the radiators. Hmm... Like i said - i really can't see the DC radiator being a big deal to mount. Maybe I'll try it and report back with my findings. I was able to find a lot of good intel on the forum, but the radiator mounting differences is something that is missing. So i guess i'll be the guinea pig for the sake of contributing :)
     
  14. May 25, 2025 at 8:16 AM
    #14
    TurboDennis

    TurboDennis [OP] New Member

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    Ok, so i just compared the AC and DC parts schematics side by side, and the fan shroud seems to be the ONLY part that is different between the two (aside from the radiator). All the hoses are the same.
     
  15. May 25, 2025 at 9:17 PM
    #15
    assassin10000

    assassin10000 New Member

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    The sequoia/dc is physically taller than the ac/rc.

    This is due to a difference in the body design (ie:core support, hood & fenders).
     
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