Suspension Questions

Im thinking about traveling to Florida for work next week - 9.5 hrs drive.


The only work I've done on my suspension are the LBJ's. Nothing else.
210k on the dash.


Now, I know my other suspension components need replaced. Handling is okay but it's a bumpy ride!
Don't see anything leaking but bushings are shot.


How crucial are all the other parts? I was looking at the Bilstein 4600 complete front assembly's and rear... I know on their website I can use Affirm to pay over time which helps.

But wondering if I need to tackle anything/everything else and what? Or if I could make it There and back as is?


Time is kind of an issue because I'm waiting on the bench in my union til I get a call out for the next closest job to me, & as I said was thinking about traveling out to make money & bide time While I wait.
And of course as always, finances are kind of tight.

I could maybe spend ~$1500 give or take if ABSOLUTELY necessary but the less the better for now.

Any insight much appreciated

 

What are you looking to accomplish? Stock height, level, or somewhere between stock and level?

Are you capable of assmembling springs and coilovers yourself?

As long as you're not looking at SuspensionLifts.com / BilsteinLifts.com for your purchase, I don't have any concerns to share.

There are a couple of vendors we know/trust who will preassemble. One is a vendor here on the forum.

 

Yes just stock OEM ride and quality is all I'm after.

& I'm sure I'm CAPABLE of doing them myself, I just don't know if I WANT to lol...
I would like the easiest possible install with least amount chance of fuckups/unforseen problems that should arise.

& since I replaced my LBJ's with OEM, then nothing else could cause catastrophic failure flying down the highway?
That is of course given that I know how my girl handles currently & driving accordingly.

 

You shouldn't have any issues with catastrophic failure flying down the highway with anything I'm about to suggest here, if ....

... your rack bellows are OK, rack bushings are fine, racks aren't leaking, none of your tie rods (inners/outers) or other components are showing slop, swaybar links and bushings are OK, upper and lower control arms and bushings are OK, send it.

If you want to stick with OEM+ ride height and appearance, on a DC 2WD:

• Bilstein 4600, front and rear
• OME 2883 coils for the front
• Simply re-use your OEM tophats if the front struts are currently OEM/factory, if not, or if you want all-new, you'll need these tophats
• For OME springs, you'll need these isolators with your OEM tophats

RE: KYB brand stuff. 1st Gen Tundras with non-Bilstein shocks had KYB from the factory. Many OEM's out there use KYB as their OEM shock of choice. In that right, KYB's stuff is essentially OEM, if not OEM-like.

The above will give you a little perk-up in the front with 2WD, you'll probably see the ½-¾" lift with those, but it's nothing that's going to tax anything component-wise, adding to wear and tear. The truck will look better getting rid of the obnoxious factory rake, somewhere in the middle of being leveled and having the overwhelming front factory rake, which a lot of people like. I'd call it "OEM+", like, a 2WD truck won't appear obviously lifted, it'll just look ... "right". The way it should've looked from the factory.

 

Man I feel like that's all the info I need right there thanks @shifty` !

I will definitely be sure to check out all the things you mentioned.

I did notice some creaking when I come to a stop after I finally got new tires. Old tires were too big, & I went down to 265 50r20, which is the suggested size on the info sticker on my door.
Which also states due to modifications, the original load capacity is reduced by 126 lbs.

No idea what mods have been done.

Also, is there any way I can cashapp you for a case of beer or something for all the advice you've shared?

 

Nah, I’m good! Appreciate the offer tho!

 

Well thanks for all the help !