1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

Well, I don't think it's the clutch juice. My buddy pressed the pedal down and when I loosened the bleeder that shit shot outta there like a porn star. I also have 0 pedal now. It doesn't even try to move the clutch fork. I didn't have any 3/16 hose so I'll get some and some more fancy clutch fluid and finish bleeding, but I think the slave is cooked. Literally. I looked closer and they actually dented the headers to fit them around the slave. They're making contact. Sigh.

 

If it's got a hydraulic clutch pedal vs. linkage, as it sounds like it does, and the slave cylinder reservoir is filled but unable to throw the shift fork, something is blown.

I found out the hard way with T56 swaps, slave cylinders have an expectation of pedal travel. On the T56 that I dropped with LS1 into my '68 C10, I think the pedal travel for the T56 was 15/16" (I'd need to go check again), and too much pedal travel, just like with a brake master cylinder, would supposedly blow it out so most folks will tell you to put a stopper in a precise place under the pedal to ensure you never exceed the expected travel.

To me, it sounds like the person who designed Donut may not have looked into that, and the slave cylinder failed. If so, when you replace it, see what the expected pedal travel is on the replacement unit and make sure the pedal travel you're offering matches that.

 

Those storm last night brought a lot of rain which made the trails really muddy today.




Usually these holes are harmless but occasionally they are not. You can't tell how deep they are until you're in them. One time I hit one and the water came up almost to my nuts. It was also really rutted out and I almost dropped the bike. Fun times.

 

I sank an xr80 to the gastank in sticky houston mud when i was 13-14. About a mile from anywhere a truck could get, down in a retention pond. Took me a solid 8 hours to get it out. Learned a lesson that day about riding after rainstorms.

 

back in high school, my buddies and i went riding up on the 4x4 trails out near my house (we would ride the 12 miles of county roads to get there). Anyhow, it was during the rainy season here in the wet side of oregon. My buddy was riding his XR200 on a power line trail and a large wide mud puddle was in the middle of the trail. He rode into the puddle, but it was waaaaay deeper than any of us could have imagined. The bike 100% completely disappeared in the murky water. It was so deep that while he still had his hands gripping the bars, his elbows were even under water! We ended up fishing the bike out, removed the spark plug, kicked it over a bunch of time, put plug back in, then fired it back up and rode back to my house. I ended up buying the XR from him a year or so later. i have all ktm’s now, but man, that 1983 xr200r has got to have been my all time favorite dirtbike. It allowed me my first taste of real freedom from being stuck here on the family farm.

 

These dirtbike stores are stiring up memories.

A buddy and I simultaneously went over our bars after hitting some nasty mud/quicksand at the Canadian river onetime.
It was dusk after a full day of riding, and we had those bikes absolutely wrung out when we hit the soft spot in the river bed. When we collected ourselves we were un hurt, but waist deep in the stinkiest smelliest muck you can imagine. The bikes were concreted in up to the numberplates. Took about two hours to dig out the bikes and get them drug back to solid ground around 100 feet away. Another two hours of slow riding in the pitch black to get back to the trucks.

We were so exhausted I didn't even strap my bike down for the trip home, just kinda clutch dumped it into the bed and shut the tailgate. Drove home in my underwear that night

 

I got stuck earlier this year while riding by myself. It didn't take me two hours to dig out, but it did take all my energy. I had to pull it by the rear wheel. It got to a point that I thought I was going to have to walk back to the parking lot and ask someone for help.

This was after I got it mostly out.

 

I’ve been shopping motorcycles again, think i wanna kx60. Could sleeve it with a small bore for 49cc & give it the lights & mirrors, and it would be light enough to heave up into the truck. May be able to fit fat atv tires & help float over any mud i find.

in texas 49cc doesnt need a plate, so effectively you dont need to register or insure, if you’re any good at running.

 

I hope you're real good then... 49cc... What's that like 15hp?

 

Does this look like it’s damaged at all? I’m not a professional oxygen breather (mouth breather) so I wouldn’t know

 

3hp if your lucky

 

A razorblade can reach 60mph with 3hp.

 

I had a 80cc with a expansion pipe and I could keep up with traffic going 55, on a beach cruiser frame

 

Me too, until i realized how easy it is to die, i saw the flex in bicycle wheels at a hard 20 mph.

 

Yeah I split the frame at the gooseneck going across a driveway transition, got a new frame and gusseted the shit out of it; then sucked an air cleaner screw down the intake…..

 

Do you have a code thrown?

 

Any hybrids that will let you boost the hp or do EV/hybrid bikes require plates as well?

 

There's no way to truly tell, shy of taking measurements with a meter in misc conditions.

But with how hagardly it looks, seeing that it's out, I'd just be safe and replace it.

 

Yeah I have the p0158 o2 sensor

 

Yeah I figured

 

Okay which are you guys going with the JBAs or the eibach Amazon?

 

Couple things.

1. That stock image for the Eibach is wrong. Part number is correct, it's the SPC version, but the image they're showing is wrong. It's also wrong at Eibach's site.
2. I'd never buy auto parts on scAmazon. Not only can you get it cheaper elsewhere, you don't need to worry about getting ripped off.
3. If you don't have a need for all of the special potential configuration/adjustments the SPC (/Eibach) is capable of, get the JBA, and save yourself the hassles; none of your chain stores are going to understand how to install or adjust the SPC's upper adjustments, which makes it more of a liability than anything for most people (IMHO). If you were intending to do some wild ass wheel/tire and lift setup, and you have a group of hardcore wheelers with a store near you, I'd maybe have a different opinion here.
4. Some of the specialty stores are going to be doing sales at the upcoming holiday; keep eyes peeled.

 

The JBAs are pretty sweet because their easily greasable bushings.
SPC (Eibach are the same-ish) are cool because greasable upper ball joints and adjustable.
I'd say it comes down to your intentions for the truck.
If you plan to do cam eliminaters, you'll probably want the adjustable upper control arms. That way you can still dial in the alignment.

Nailed it.

 

I mean I like to do skinny 34s in the future but who knows if I’ll ever get there haha. I was under the impression that the JBAs were also adjustable? The only reason I thought about the spc (eibach) was for the price.

 

@Sirfive are your JBAs adjustable??

 

JBA are not adjustable from the top in the same manner SPC/Eibach are. SPC/Eibach are slotted at the top which allows the UBJ to slide inward/outward.

The slot is roughly 2-3", which makes for quite a bit of movement. Which is potentially problematic, if a person aligning doesn't know how to handle it. It's also a problem if you don't verify (and probably check semi-often) the top nut of the UBJ is torqued to their fairly-high spec. I apparently didn't torque my passenger side one quite enough and the UBJ slid totally out of position in the slot, fortunately before I got the truck aligned. The Toyota/offroad shop I went to said they won't recommend them to customers because they've had that exact thing happen several times.

The last paragraph is ultimately why I say, "If you have no FIRM plans to do something totally wild that calls for it, you're just doing something semi-normal like 33s or 34s, you probably don't need them. Having a stationary upper will be less maintenance, less hassles dialing alignment in, while still offering corrections that will make it easier to stuff a tire versus using OEM. I probably didn't need them. I have yet to find a reason to use the upper adjustment. I'm not unhappy I bought them, but ...

 

Good to know, I see so many people talk about them and have them I feel it’s necessary to have them to fit 33s haha thanks for the advice. I’ll probably end up with the JBAs

 

I have them and I rubbed pinch weld so badly with 33s and my SPCs that I damaged the (used) tires. Don't conflate these two things, I don't believe they're related.

Look, if you plan to run 33s or larger, you're going to rub. Period. You may not do it all the time. It may only happen in certain situations. For me it's reversing to the left and turning during compression events.

You can align a lot of it out without touching any up-top adjustment. The important thing is you're using some kind of UCA that corrects angles. JBA does. SPC does. But you're going to rub something, at some point. If that's not cool with you, then don't install 33s. Go one size smaller, 32.5", and potentially have zero rub. (I even rub in the way I described with 32.5" FWIW, so ...)

 

You forget to mention the best part about the adjustability though... You touched on the camber, but neglected to mention the caster!

 

Rock Auto is selling Walker brand catalytic converters for Honda vehicles and they are really inexpensive. Can anyone vouch for the Walker brand?