Removing 1st and second oil pan.

As you can see it's been leaking for quite sometime.

 

what am I looking at here? right under front crank pulley? you see that oil higher up behind the crank pulley? that wont get splashed back up from the upper oil pan; you might have a crank pulley leak...

 

While it's totally possible that top bead is where the leak is coming from, clearly you have a farly significant amount of oil coming from way farther up!

Notice the "river" between the thick lines, see how high up that saturation is? It's flowing downward (skinny arrows) and coating everything below. If that round part is the harmonic balancer/crank pulley, then you have a crank pulley leak, not an oil pan leak!

Also, see that bolt head over on the right, end of that thick line?whatever that is (I can't tell), you're leaking above it also, it's far too wet, it and whatever the black thing is which that bolt is holding down. Maybe someone else on here recognizes what that is. Maybe it's the crankshaft position sensor?

​

 

Yep! Found it. Flipped thru a pic I took prior to help someone figure out if their crank position sensor harness was tucked correctly.

Blue circle is pointing to that wet bolt on my truck, and the crank position sensor. If the oil is coming from up where that arrow is (behind that big circular pulley, which is your crank pulley), then your oil pan probably isn't leaking, your crank pulley seal is.

​

 

Question: Looking back in the history of service (if you have it), when was the last time the timing belt was done? Just asking because that's a really advantageous time to replace the crank pulley seal, and timing belt/water pump/tensioner replacement (if you use OEM parts, the Aisin brand kit) is due every 9yrs/90k miles, whichever comes first.

This leak is NOT usually a big deal. I would NOT drop your oil pan, I don't think that's the issue here, and I don't see any evidence anyone has had the oil pan off.

I'd steer clear of whoever tried to tell you it was the oil pan. It seems pretty obvious to me it's not!

 

Timing belt was done 2022 @ 180K
That sealant does not look factory to me.
What's involved with changing the crank seal?

 

Gotta take off a lot of stuff on the front of the engine. All the stuff you need to take off to do the timing belt. This is the seal being replaced.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h4iIYdpfrD4​

 

And so you understand why I say you 100% have a chrankshaft seal leak. It's not a huge deal, it's just a PITFA to get to.

Red ring is the seal. Oil is dribbling out in the path of the blue lines. Look at that right-hand arrow. It's puddling up in that channel, and at the tip of the arrow is that bolt head I circled earlier. It's puddling, then finding the easiet paths out, one path is through the crank position sensor, the other pach is out of the flared opening which I highlighted with similar red arrows and lines a few replies up. You absolutely are leaking out the crank seal. It reeeaaaaaaally sucks the timing belt just got done. You have to remove the timing belt to get to this seal. The fact it wasn't noticed (or) happening during the timing belt replacement (the mechanic would've noticed if half worth a shit, it takes 10 mins to replace while doing that job!!!) is a tragedy.

​

 

I'll probably do it myself, always interested in new things. What is a shop cost on this job normally? If it's a few hundred may just go that route. Thanks for all replys!

 

Last note on this for a bit.

You're probalby looking at north of $1k because of labor hours involved. But it can't hurt to get a quote.

Neither of these would I trust anyone except a Toyota specialty mechanic to replace, preferrably a private shop, not a dealer, dealer is gonna gouge your ass. If you change these, you will easily get another 15 years of leak-free service, and then you can continue to go about your business.

This video shows the 2005-2007 Sequoia/Tundra 4.7L engine, doing the two major seals (two types, three total seals) that tend to leak on these trucks.

The seal job on your oil pan looks stock to me. I know it's crazy, but mine has that much goop smushing out also, and I only have ~82k original miles on my truck.

Anyway, you'll see in this video ... replacing the cam and crank seals on these trucks is not something even I would personally want to do. I'd do the crank seal, but the cam seals are notorious leakers at the mileage and age of your truck, and they're really not "easy" to do even for an experienced wrench (lots you can fuck up, to be blunt) but it's best to just knock all three out "while you're in there".

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7gcM_-fN-44​

 

Wait - I just ralized, I don't think the engine he's working on is the VVTi version of the 4.7L you have in your Sequoia and I have in my Tundra, it's one of the pre-2005 model engines. There's a HUGE difference with the VVTi engines when doing the cam seals, it's not a simple "pop off the cam and pop in the seal", the VVTi (variable valve timing) on the 2005+ 4.7L requires you to install a service bolt in the top-end to hold the cams in time/position and must physically remove the cams! (making it a good time to do the valve cover gaskets, since they must come off!) and ... it's just a LOT of work.

We had one guy that's extremely mechanically inclined and we spent 24+ pages in a thread because he forgot to install that service bolt and his engine was randomly misfiring

 

Actually, good man! He mentions the little factoid at the 9min and 25sec mark of the video!

 

Wiped down & took a video. Can't load it, to big. Have a youtube account but haven't used it years. I'll figure it out & post later this weekend

 

www.imgur.com

Drag and drop the video in our use their upload tool.

When you get to the upload page with it, copy the link from the address bar and paste the link here. It'll auto-link the video.

 

Yeah Ill take pictures of mine later but looks very similar to my crank seal leak

Also planning to change mine when I do the timing belt in about 10k miles, or I might just do it over the summer while I'm off school

 

If it's mild enough a leak, the seal conditioner package in

$15 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 may shore it up. Doubt it'll work for hers, but may work for yours. It only works for rubber seals, and only if they're not physically damaged.

With how much oil I'm seeing in the pics above, it almost looks like the crank seal wasn't fully seated correctly during an install attempt, or maybe the original is damaged.

 

interesting, I haven't tried that, the leak isn't terrible but its getting bad

 

https://imgur.com/a/M4CXm3e finally got it, forget the first 25sec btw, definitely a guy lol
Guess I hit the wrong bubble on my phone while signing up. Old district 37 desert racer, been on motorcycles since 4yo

 

Check out the butcher job on one of the actual oil pan bolts. Definitely not factory!

 

One of the bolts is a stud like that to help you line it up

 

I definintely think it's the crank seal leaking. My bad on gender, was thinking of another person having weird issues I was helping today.

Sadly, you can't remove the plastic cover (that cover is what has your timing marks for the crank pulley on its top side). You need to pull the crank pulley off to take that off. Maybe you could pop out its bottom bolt(s) and throw a plastic wedge up in there and shine a light in there to get more visibility on where the leak is originating? That cover ends right at the upper pan seal.

But the fact oil is leaking at the crankshaft position sensor on the driver side of that cover, it tells me it's probably the crankshaft seal that's 100% your culprit.