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Removing 1st and second oil pan.

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by mdfish97, Oct 30, 2024.

  1. Nov 4, 2024 at 6:12 PM
    #31
    mdfish97

    mdfish97 [OP] New Member

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    The holes in the cast section is the only damage I have found so far. Here’s a pic of the top oil pan from the wrecking yard. I noticed the cast section with the hole isn’t that close to wear the cylinders are.

    IMG_2539.jpg
     
  2. Nov 4, 2024 at 6:21 PM
    #32
    Sirfive

    Sirfive Master Procrastinator

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    Think this mark on the crossmember is related?
    IMG_8671.jpg
     
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  3. Nov 4, 2024 at 6:40 PM
    #33
    Weagle

    Weagle I survived my timing belt change

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    Good luck with this. I've been following it intently. Those pictures are concerning, but they're blurry so hard to be certain
     
    mdfish97[OP] likes this.
  4. Nov 4, 2024 at 7:32 PM
    #34
    shifty`

    shifty` Animals and insects don't do drugs

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    Almost looks like a bullet ricochet eh?
     
  5. Nov 4, 2024 at 11:17 PM
    #35
    joseph_womack

    joseph_womack @ 4x4bound

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    3/1 Lift, 35s, Front Bumper, etc etc
    I was just thinking the same thing
     
  6. Nov 7, 2024 at 11:19 AM
    #36
    mdfish97

    mdfish97 [OP] New Member

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    today I am boroscoping the cylinders, and I’ll make sure to post a couple pictures and try to make them clearer. Thank you for all the well wishes. I’ll keep you guys updated.
     
  7. Nov 7, 2024 at 11:42 AM
    #37
    mdfish97

    mdfish97 [OP] New Member

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    Getting you the VIN today.

    also for the thread: picture of a couple of spare pistons and valve stems from the wrecking yard just in case shit went bad.

    IMG_2552.jpg
     
  8. Nov 7, 2024 at 12:18 PM
    #38
    mdfish97

    mdfish97 [OP] New Member

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    could you also send the internal valve body diagram for this VIN? I can’t find it online and I rebuilt the transmission for this car but used the old valve body-everything was burnt.
    VIN:5TBBN44121S177886
    Could you also send the diagram for the internals of the valve body for this VIN? This is a 2001 that i rebuilt but used the old burnt valve body without rebuilding it. I got a valve body (the A) from a 2003 and im worried it’s not exactly the same so I’ll just rebuild the old one. VIN: 5TBBN44121S177886

    IMG_2558.jpg
    Resized_Resized_20241029_131729(2).jpg
    Resized_Resized_20241005_181616(2).jpg
    Resized_Resized_20241026_161837(1).jpg
     
  9. Nov 7, 2024 at 3:10 PM
    #39
    mdfish97

    mdfish97 [OP] New Member

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    here is the VIN for the blue tundra:
    5TBDT44116S511749

    IMG_2559.jpg
     
  10. Nov 7, 2024 at 4:00 PM
    #40
    BroHon

    BroHon Permanently on "Island Time"

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    Weight reduction, mostly rust.
    I do my work in a gravel driveway, so I have respect:hattip: for you doing THIS level of repair right out in the wild :rofl:
    Best wishes for the breach being an external event!
     
  11. Nov 7, 2024 at 5:19 PM
    #41
    whodatschrome

    whodatschrome New Member

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    lots of dents
    I definitely appreciate your exuberance! And FYI, that thingy that looks like a transfer case unbolts super easy from that other thingy that looks like a transmission. It makes it MUCH easier to move around with them separated.
     
    mdfish97[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  12. Nov 7, 2024 at 5:30 PM
    #42
    bfunke

    bfunke Tundra Curmudgeon

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  13. Nov 7, 2024 at 5:31 PM
    #43
    mdfish97

    mdfish97 [OP] New Member

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    Great news everyone! So I put a little oil into it and started it up after checking all spark plugs and boroscoping the cylinders! No clunking or noise that would scare the shit outta me! It was dry (cuz there is a hole and I didn’t fill it up with oil) so it was loud but the noise seemed fine…so…I think it was external! Now I gotta figure out how to change the second oil pan. Preferably by not taking out the engine but if that guys who’s a mechanic get back the on the manual for the proper way to do it I’ll do it that way. (Don’t worry I’ll inspect for more damage before slapping the pan on)

    as for the v6, transmission is in with new torque converter. Took out the valve body. Gotta know how to rebuild that too. DEFINITELY need the diagram for that one. I’ll send a video on this thread of both running and driving so stay posted.
     
  14. Nov 7, 2024 at 6:52 PM
    #44
    badass03taco

    badass03taco New Member

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    Dang a junk yard let you disassemble an engine? Wow thats pretty amazing.
     
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  15. Nov 9, 2024 at 2:03 PM
    #45
    mdfish97

    mdfish97 [OP] New Member

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    Wish I had a diagram right about now.

    IMG_2567.jpg
     
  16. Nov 9, 2024 at 2:53 PM
    #46
    Weagle

    Weagle I survived my timing belt change

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    I know on my truck I will be replacing the oil pump which means taking the two oil pans loose. I plan to disconnect the motor mounts and use a hoist to raise up the engine a few inches


    Have you watched that video from the All girls garage where they rebuilt the valve body where you drill and insert a steel sleeve so it's not aluminum moving on aluminum? More or less a shift kit.
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2024
  17. Nov 9, 2024 at 2:55 PM
    #47
    shifty`

    shifty` Animals and insects don't do drugs

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    You may find the info you need IN HERE. You may want to download your own copy, for future reference.
     
  18. Nov 9, 2024 at 5:44 PM
    #48
    mdfish97

    mdfish97 [OP] New Member

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    Thank you. I actually was able to do it with no diagram. Car is driving great now! So 1 down and 1 to go.

    IMG_2568.jpg
     
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  19. Nov 9, 2024 at 10:39 PM
    #49
    mdfish97

    mdfish97 [OP] New Member

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    Remember to disconnect the 4 bolts on the transmission mount too. Otherwise that rubber there is going to be pried up when you lift the engine and it may rip. Should give you like an extra inch of lift I think at least. I haven’t actually ripped the mount before but I have ripped a few on my bmw so I am always weary of putting stress on things. Also yes, I’ve decided I will do it that way too to get to the second oil pan.
     
    Weagle[QUOTED] likes this.
  20. May 16, 2025 at 11:11 AM
    #50
    dzrtracin

    dzrtracin New Member

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    Hello, bringing up an old thread as my upper pan is leaking. Shops are quoting 3K due to engine removal, but now after reading this & I'm quite mechanically inclined going to tackle it myself. Any other recommendations other than what's been written so far? BTW, best sealant to use?
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2025 at 11:16 AM
  21. May 16, 2025 at 11:25 AM
    #51
    shifty`

    shifty` Animals and insects don't do drugs

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    I'd recommend you be 100% certain it's the oil pan that's leaking. Unless someone has had your oil pan off in the past, it's extremely unlikely the oil pan is actually the source of your leak. Maybe like 1-2% of the time is the oil pan ever actually leaking on a 1st gen.

    About 75% of the time oil is leaking from the valve covers (almost all of our trucks have had valve covers leaking, the bolts loosen and gaskets shrink with age and coat everything below, including the oil pan, with oil). The other 25% it's either cam seals (fairly often), the oil cooler gasket/s (occasionally), or the crank seal (rarely, but more often than oil pan), and then, like once or maybe twice here in my 5 years of posting, it's ever been the oil pan?

    I'm skeptical. Highly skeptical.

    You should almost never need to drop the oil pan or transmission pan on these trucks with the V8. And when I say "almost never", I mean, it should never have a reason to happen, unless someone else, at some point, for some reason, has already dropped the pan to do something else. They are apparently sealed extremely well at the factory.
     
  22. May 16, 2025 at 11:44 AM
    #52
    dzrtracin

    dzrtracin New Member

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    THANKS for the detailed reply. I just picked up this Sequoia a week ago after a nice lady turned left in front me & the insurance totaled my prior 2002 which I had since day 1. I found this newer one with basically the same mileage & immaculate condition inside & out but did notice the valve covers leaking pretty bad. Like you mentioned the valve covers were definitely leaking, I actually got $400 off the asking price after showing them the issue.
    Once home I tightened them, they were basically finger tight, yes finger tight. After doing that oil was leaking profusely from what looked like the upper oil pan seal. Oil is definitely coming down from the frontal area there & going across the frame member & dripping from left to right off the crossmember frame. Maybe I am missing something/over looking it. Appreciate all the help. 197K & timing belt was just replaced @ 180K
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2025 at 11:52 AM
  23. May 16, 2025 at 11:56 AM
    #53
    shifty`

    shifty` Animals and insects don't do drugs

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    I just mentioned all the common places our 1st gens leak (Sequoia/Tundra) with the 4.7L V8. It's almost never the oil pan.

    If it's leaking down the front, it's either the crank seal, cam seals (which on the '05+ are $$$ to replace!), or maybe the oil pump?

    If it's leaking around the perimeter of the engine, valve covers are #1 culprit, and sometimes it's just loose bolts as you found. Something I lump in with valve covers is the half-moon plugs, which will send oil down the back of the block and bellhousing. There are two half-moon plugs at the back of each head, and they need to be pulled/cleaned/resealed when the valve cover gaskets are done.

    If it's leaking across the front crossmember, radiator support, or near the dipstick, it's most likely the oil filter housing/oil filter cooler, which has two different gaskets that like to leak and send oil all over around the oil pan starting from the front driver corner. But the dipstick tube also has an o-ring at the bottom that can leak.

    Know which it is before you let someone touch it. If it's not the oil pan, you're doing yourself a disservice by letting someone pop it off.

    If you need info on doing the valve covers LMK, I can link you up with a slew of info.
     
    joseph_womack likes this.
  24. May 16, 2025 at 12:57 PM
    #54
    joseph_womack

    joseph_womack @ 4x4bound

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    ditto on this

    although I do have a crank seal leak on mine
     
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  25. May 16, 2025 at 12:58 PM
    #55
    joseph_womack

    joseph_womack @ 4x4bound

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    after you tightened up the valve covers, take a couple cans of brake clean and pretty much wash the motor; once its clean drive it for awhile and check where the oil is coming from
     
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  26. May 16, 2025 at 1:04 PM
    #56
    dzrtracin

    dzrtracin New Member

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    Did that, major engine compartment cleaning. I'll take pic of the oil pan, I did notice it's definitely been messed with as there is white/grey sealant on both upper pan & lower pan. oozing out after being tightened, does NOT look factory to me.
     
  27. May 16, 2025 at 1:21 PM
    #57
    Yota303

    Yota303 -Running on hope and gasoline-

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    IMG_0341.jpg
     
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  28. May 16, 2025 at 6:12 PM
    #58
    shifty`

    shifty` Animals and insects don't do drugs

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    First two pics are the best I can get of my factory-sealed oil pan with skid plate and splash aprons on, looks like they used a white-ish sealant?
    Second two pics are trans pan.

    No goop out the sides on the trans pan, but a little goop on the oil pan? Sealant almost appears whitish.

    Maybe previous owner popped yours off b/c someone told them it was leaking, when it was actually the valve covers? :rofl: Who knows. That's the fun part about used cars, I guess.


    Oil pan pics, from each rear corner:

    upload_2025-5-16_21-0-9.png
    upload_2025-5-16_21-1-28.png



    Trans pan pics, from front end, then driver side:

    upload_2025-5-16_21-1-53.png

    upload_2025-5-16_21-11-25.png
     
  29. May 16, 2025 at 7:46 PM
    #59
    joseph_womack

    joseph_womack @ 4x4bound

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    yep, transmission uses a cork gasket from factory
     
    shifty`[QUOTED] likes this.
  30. May 17, 2025 at 8:40 AM
    #60
    dzrtracin

    dzrtracin New Member

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    I'm screwed LOL it's definitely been messed with. Opinions please. I'm going to do this at the house, removing the motor mount bolts & the 4 tranny bolts to start of course. Do you guys think putting a 2x4 wedge in between the motor and the mount itself will give me enough clearance? There's a video of a guy placing a block of wood on the frame up to the harmonic balancer, doesn't look very safe!

    20250517_083239.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2025 at 8:48 AM

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