Sealing the Cab to the Cap

Hello! I am new here, recently bought a 23 platinum crew max.... I just put a new ARE cap and built out a bed platform, working on executing my plan to drive/camp/live as I venture West.

****The goal is to be as stealthy as possible, to go from the drivers seat to the back/cap (where the bed is) without having to go outside.

- To match the size of the Tundra windows I cut into the cap to match the window size openings
- Next I installed a rubber boot with contact cement to cap and a boothook to the cab, this is ok but not perfect water can still get in (the boot is not 100%)

I tried pool noodles (major fail)

I covered the truck/cap over gap with 8" width vinyl to cover the entire thing - and was told it will fail.

Looking for options/ideas to get this water tight/no leaks! Thank you !!!!!

 

I can't help with your issue, but I'd like to welcome you to the forum..

I dug around a little and it seems most boots are made for small center slider windows..
Surely more will comment.

Good luck..

 

Self made..

Truck Camper Pass-Through Boot - DIY Prototype V1 | Roam Lab

Expensive option.
EDIT; No, this replaces the entire window..

Breezer Windows™ | Truck Drop Down Window | Pickup Truck Back Window

 

I have the Breezer window boot/boot-hook installed ... it's not designed for the Tundra, it is only bridging the gap - not sealing the gap

 

I had the same problem with a 03 Ram and Topper. After trying many different ideas, I came up with the perfect answer. A Bicycle tube for the largest Bike Tire I could find.
With just a little air in the tube to get a shape, work it down and round the window in the cab and Topper. A little more air and you can work out the wrinkles and get the shape you
want. Then inflate the tube just enough for a water tight seal. Be careful when inflating the tube that you dont break or bend any thing, you have a lot of force available. It worked slick, never leaked and only cost a few bucks for the cheap tube.
Paul

 

Yes, motorcycle tubes work great on small windows, but I think this is a full size crewmax rear window opening.

 

I thought ARE made one of those? Did you check with them?

 

I don't have a product specifically, but you might want to consider looking at how RV's work, specifically with their double seals on slide outs. It might be an option in combination with the pool noodle or inner tube idea. Pop-up campers are probably a closer to what you are looking for, but you don't currently have a good overhang to get the channel attached to on both sides. Good luck.

 

Welcome to the forum. Years ago on a 94 Toyota I did the bicycle tube trick. It worked but wasn’t the whole rear window.

with that boot on the shell, I bet if you could find an inner tube big enough to go around the boot it would work. The boot already provides the shape for the tube. That was the hardest part to seal my old truck/shell. Keeping the shape. You could probably get a custom length one ordered or even make one out of 2 tubes and some rubber cement (and patience).

 

Pfffft, forget the tube idea. Do this.

 

I wish that there was something big enough to accomplish that... Thank you!

 

Yes - I saw that on ARE's site and they don't make them anymore. I will call these guys tomorrow! Thank you so much

 

Any luck calling on this? Lots of us want to know! Thanks.

 

I believe this is what you want it's called an accordion style boot.

When I used to have a shell on my 94 Toyota pick-up truck, it had the compression boot and it worked great, but if you wanted a better seal and permanent pass through they used to use what they called an accordion style boot.

The only thing that you may have issues with is.....If I recall correctly you had to remove the back glass and molding to install the accordion boot since the pinch mold to mount it goes where the current window seal is. So you would effectively lose the ability to use your power rear slider.

 

I've tried to do this in the past with the Tacoma, ended up with the stupid blow-up ring around the rear slider, which was ok at best. Then throw in the scuffed paint on the back of the cab, and I figured it was a no-go for the Tundra.
Well this thread got me looking around again, and I just ran across this https://centurydistributing.com/bts...AaFiJxVhTM0bOgxPTQzZ8lFAArnRfJq4lpWxAIa55Iwov
I'm not sure how it will actually work, but at only $5.50 per foot. I'll buy some, and some 4"-6" wide ppf to put around the cab window give it a shot. Obviously, the goal is compression type boot.


What are anyone else's thoughts?

 

The topper on my '08 came w/a 'boot', which worked as advertised in terms of not letting water in, etc. while providing a pass through between the bed and cab...

However, just note that it basically removes any functionality of the rear window other than a pass-through. In other words if you opened your rear window w/boot intact, hot air would pass from the bed into the cab of truck (at least in the summer months).

I ened up eliminating the boot and putting glass in at the front of the cap for more functionality of the Tundra's rear window (not sure if your 3rd gen has the full roll down windows like our 2nd Gens). I found w/the cap in place and no boot that I was able to get more 'function' out of the rear window. I almost always have a dog or 2 or 3 with me, so being able to park w/the rear door windows cracked and the back roll down window all the way down (since the cap would prevenet any intrusion) was a huge win for my set up. Much better airflow in the truck when parked.

With that being said, if you're just concerned w/having a sealed (water resistant) pass-through by way of a boot, I think your idea w/that product is spot on. Also, PPF over the location where the boot touches the cab is ideal as well because the flex between the bed and cab will definitely cause some paint wear over time.

 

Looks like it could be better and I might have a solution. I would order a little over double the needed length and double it up face to face or in a mirror image lapped together with a waterproof tape available at roofing supply house. The tape is 1.5" wide and is used to seal rubber roofing material seams. It is a little pricey but it will seal, it's easy to work with, don't dry out, etc. I would also probably triple the PPF due to the abrasives that will become trapped in the gap. The doubled boot material will give you a mounting lip on both the truck and cap.

 

There are fold up window options for caps, and one can mount a remote switch in the bed for the truck window too. Best option IMO provided the budget allows.

 

I've looked into installing some sort of a boot between the camper shell and truck cabin, but decided against it because when you're driving, the cab and bed will slightly move around on bumps etc, and that would cause the boot to rub against the paint and eventually destroy it. Was not worth it for me