What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Now do it again

 

I put some auxiliary 12V terminals up front so that I don't have to pop the hood to attach the battery charger, air compressor, etc. Made some 4awg cables, 1 to the positive battery post and the negative grounded to one of the radiator support bolts.

 

Are they fused?

 

Are you?

 

That’s happened to me a few times. I welded a nut to the end of it and then backed it out. Keep in mind that it was a HE HE HUGE pain in the butt. It took about 10+ times to get the entire tap out.
I will say that an m8 tap would be easier to remove than a smaller m6.

 

Prismatic Illusion Gold Prize is my recommendation

 

They aren't. Maybe I can find a circuit breaker big enough to protect them. Want it to handle 400amps.

 

Huh. 5100 blew everyone else away, except the Fox 2.5, which it still performed equally or better to. Wild.

I expected Eibach to perform better than it did.

 

I know this is an apples to oranges comparison, but the TRD Fox suspension that came on my 4Runner still blows me away. Absolutely an incredible ride in all conditions. I think the only time I will regret it will be when it comes time to replace it due to cost. I think it’s Fox 2.0 but I looked at the specs and all it says is TRD tuned Fox suspension.

 

I intend to do it at least 2 more times!

 

Aren't Fox shit on our trucks? I thought @Darkness had a problem with them.

 

Can’t remember, zero Fox given.

 

They probably would be, the 4Runner is like twice as heavy as the Tundra. It’s definitely an apples and oranges comparison but if u have 4Runner I recommend them whole heartedly.

 

Adjuster bracket.is now actually working on the passenger side with OEM shoes.

 

Until I put the spring back on. Now it doesn't want to catch again. WTF.

 

I flipped the spring around and it's catching again.

I tried this also with the AC Delco shoes but it was no dice. I figured I'd try with the OEM pads to see if it'd do anything. The videos that I watched had the spring connecting from the rear. Odd stuff.

 

Test fitting the flatbed to get an idea of how much it needs to come up for more wheel clearence during articulation. I was thinking 2" but in the flesh 4" gets me a lot closer to where I need to be. Tire to oem bed inner fender is 11-12" roughly. A 4'' spacer gives me 9" to the fender which would be fine for an RV that wants to play off-road a little too.

And its monster truckin. Screws up all the body lines too


On the plus side it puts my departure angle at significantly better than stock when I drop the hitch.


Gonna have to make some concessions, one because I would never finish anything if I didn't, and two I've got too much time into this one to start over for vanity reasons.

Adapt and overcome!

 

bodylift for the cab to line em up?

 

Mine is hooked from behind and your spring looks weirdly wrong to me, it should be longer than that on one side?

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If it helps, here's a couple overall shots of my bone stock truck on original, factory-installed drums/shoes/hardware, both sides.

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This is what my spring looks like compared to your spring. It looks to me like that is the wrong spring (blue one) for the position you have it in, @Dakillacore. I 100% believe that's your problem, the coil itself and probably wrong tension is interfering with your operations.

The blue spring you're using is what provides tension at hte bottom of the shoes. It hooks between the tips of the shoes.

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