New Leaf Spring - Less ride Height?

Looking for some guidance on ride height with replacement leaf springs.

Over the weekend I swapped out my stock leaf springs and shocks for ATS 4wd leaf springs(3/1) and Bilstien 5100 at 175K miles. It seems that after install there is less ride height in the rear then there was with the worn out stock leafs. I have a high rise topper on there and was curious if this was normal for aftermarket leafs? What should be the stock ride height? I looked at the manual and could not find stock ride height for the rear vs the front just overall height. If anyone can point me to where I could find that happy to find it myself. I am trying to maintain stock ride height to fit in my garage so HD springs were not an option. I do have a RAS standard system I was planning to install this weekend that may help but at a loss. Really happy with ride quality and it has me itching to do the front but really afraid of squat especially as the rear end settles.

This was my first time doing my own maintenance/replacement and replacement and was meticulous about everything down to the thread count on the u-bolts to ensure they were properly installed and all even.

 

Any chance we can get pics? I assume you didn't install the leaf pack backwards, didn't do anything weird with the shackles, etc.?

Are you 100% positive ATS sent you the "HD" springs specifically? Can you share the part number on your invoice and receipt? Because it sounds like they sent you the non-HD springs. You wanted the ATS 90-221HD leaf packs if you planned for a lift.

Also, what are the details on the 5100s? Stock springs and which circlip? Or did you choose a lifted spring?

Did you take center-of-hub to fender measures on all four before, and record the numbers, so you know what the difference in height is, as most install sheets will tell you to do?

I've got a camper shell, on my identical 2006 4WD AC, and I definitely got lift, which settled some after a bit.

 

Here’s some reference trucks

https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-big-is-yours-measure-up.46186/

 

Sorry if my post was confusing. I got the standard leafs not the HD as I did not want lift so I could fit in my garage and was afraid lift would prevent that. Part number was: 2000-2006 Toyota Tundra 4wd Rear Leaf Spring Complete Kit BT90221CK.

The 5100s were only installed on rear at this time. Part number from rock auto:24100144.

I did not get measurements before and after and am kicking myself for that now.


Here are some pics from when I bought the truck and now after new leaf install. Garage open is stock and garage closed is new set up in rear. I can get better pictures from a straight on a little later.

 

What was the reason for replacing the leafs?

 

I was starting to see some flattening in the front of the leafs and slight bending down, as well as bottoming out every bump I hit in the rear. In addition, my rear end and bed bounced at anything over 70 MPH. Was looking for a smoother ride.

 

With a topper and any gear in the back, the HD are probably the way to go. I got maybe 1” over my old worn out stock leafs. So not more than 1/2” over stock with my camper shell and a tool box.

 

And as for now, after installing the new leaf packs, what are your measurements from center-of-hub to the edge of the fender flare, taking into account the wheels are inset differently up front and out back?

I'm just curious if you're sitting lower out back or not. The HD springs are variable in how much lift they'll give you. I want to say, at present, after a lot of time to settle, with my camper shell on, I might've gotten 1¼"? I feel like @KNABORES said his springs (different company, same part number, I think) got roughly 1", with the shell installed. So it's not a tremendous amount of lift with the HD, but they take a substantial amount of weight before starting to squat by any reasonable amount.

 

@shifty` Just measured and it appears rear is sitting at 22 inches from center cap to edge of fender flare. Front is sitting at ~20.5 inches.

 

Sounds about right

 

Agreed.

From the thread you linked, here were my stock numbers at around 70k original miles, with a BAKflip cover on the bed:

Before suspension mods (gas ~1/4 tank):​

Front D: 20.5"
Front P: 20.75
Rear D: 21.75
Rear P: 21.5
​

He installed OEM-compatible springs and got OEM+ numbers. Actually the rear is probably a little stiffer with those springs, it's impressive it's sitting higher than my OEM springs with a shell on the back.

 

My rear sits at 21.5” with the HD leafs

I was 20” on my stock 270k mile leafs before the leaf swap. #sagtown. I also have some lift in the front that probably shift a little weight rearward.

 

Wild, you didn't get the ATS springs, did you? I think you bought General brand or something like that?

I've got my Leer camper shell on, with all my LV cabling tools, cart, and ladder in the bed, and I'm sitting at 23" out back, center to flare.

 

I bought the Rockauto ones. Husky brand or something like that. 5 leafs, same part number as the ATS ones.

 

Well, guess I am just going nuts. Appreciate the help. I have read that Road Active Suspension will give me about .5 inch of lift as well.

Was going to do Bilstein 5100 and OME 2883 springs in a bit. I hope that it levels instead of creating squat.

Appreciate both of your input and help.

 

Well, you don't have 2WD or 4WD in your 'Vehicle One-Line Description' in your profile, so I can't help answer that for you.

If you're 2WD you'll probably get about 1" lift with the 2883 and about 1½" lift with the 2884, give or take ¼", latter of which will be basically level.
If you're 4WD, more like ¾" up front with 2883 and 1¼" with 2884, give or take ¼", latter of which will probably leave you a smidge below level, but it'll absolutely kill that garish OEM rake.

Note that on worn springs, 1½"-2" diffrence front to rear is normal. I'm actually like ¾" higher up front and I still look level at a distance. The wheel wells seem (to me) to be cut differently between front and rear, it creates for a weird optical illusion.

Also remember, if going with OME springs, you need different spring isolators to use with the OEM tophats.

These numbers are purely going off what other AC owners have gotten out of the 2883 and 2884. If you do end up getting ½" lift out of the RAS kit, there may be an argument to go with OME 2885, but I'd personally stick with the 2884 if it were me, given the numbers you just shared with us on your front/rear measures.

 

Updated that, it's a 4WD.

Yep, I have read a bunch on here about the OME 2883 and lift to expect. Thanks for the work you have done on the stickied thread.

That is helpful info on the wheel wells, I had not come across that.

Plan on order from Josh at 1stgenoffroad and having it assembled with new mounts.

I will put on the RAS and see what I am sitting at this weekend and based upon what you stated above for the different heights maybe adjust my spring choice.

 

so get the HD leafs if you have a camper shell/build out?

 

"It's complicated".

Not everyone wants a lift, and the HD springs will give you one. Now an already-high rear end is even higher and if you don't want to look silly you've got to lift the front to match.

So - are your current springs worn out? If not, and you have regular weight in the back (nothing crazy, but the couple hundred pounds of a fiberglass topper and gear), don't do anything. Stick with your current springs.

If they're worn out, then you've got decisions to make. Do you want or can you tolerate a lift? How much weight will you have back there? You can do air bags or Sumo Springs or Timbrens if don't want the lift but will be carrying weight.

I carry enough weight to justify the HD springs but wanted to avoid a lift. No one can guarantee how much lift your particular truck will get out of the HD springs, but 1" seems nearly certain. I happened to notice someone post about installing lowering shackles, and that got my attention.

I bought ATS HD springs plus Total Chaos 3/4" lowering shackles as a compromise. My back end is definitely higher than it was before, but I expect it will settle a little still, and it's not ridiculously high. Might have just returned my truck to factory rake. I also put OME 2883s in the front, which are generally thought to be very close to stock height but just a little lift, less than an inch, to help even out my front and back end a bit.

Just realize it's a slippery slope. You go HD in the back, you need to even out the front with a lift, and the expense multiplies. So think through what problem you're trying to solve, and look into all the options.

 

Adding onto that great reply ^^

I'd just mention, if your current leaf springs are sitting at near-level for the forward-most 12-18", or showing significant reverse-flexion when you gun it (i.e. axle wrap), you should probably update the springs.

How you update is up to you. If you don't want lift, simply get a new leaf pack. If you want the least amount of lift possible and don't mind losing your overload leaf, the ICON add-a-leaf will get you about ½" lift. Else Wheeler's add-a-leaf, or ATS' HD spring packs will get you closer to 1¼" - 1¾" (Wheelers will give more, ATS HD springs will give less). If you want no serious lift, just to stiffen, maybe go with RAS.

What you're looking to avoid here is axle wrap IMHO. If you'll be loading up the rear and you're on the OEM leafs, you should add-a-leaf, RAS, or replace the packs with something more stout. Really. It all depends on what you think you'll do with your truck. But just adding a cap isn't much weight, couple hundo pounds?

 

My leafs are so straight I could probably level my cabinets with them haha, now I gotta spend 3k on suspension and the check engine light just came on. And as always thanks for your experience

 

At this point I think it all needs to be replaced, I think I have the oem bilstein 4600 in the rear as well so I think it’s time for sure.

 

Scan it. Maybe it's something stupid like EVAP code that suggests you didn't tighten the gas cap til it clicks 1-2x

 

I did it’s p0158 o2 sensor bank 2, last time this happened on my old ac I just cleaned the mafs and cleared the codes it was fine until I rolled it haha.