What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

3 turns to the right creates a black hole. Never do three turns to the right.

 

If you hold the key to one side will it roll down the windows?

mine doesnt, but i’m fairly sure the sequoia did.

 

Dude. What the hell? Where’s your felt washers and dielectric grease? Do you hate your Tundra, or what?

 

If you go 3 turns to the right while going ass to mouth, do they cancel each other out?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JoRQEQUi9NM

 

Wow. I sometimes feel I am de cyphering some code.....

Back when I had just turned 18 and the Warsaw Pact fell apart....all those wonderful WW2 rifles started flooding in at basically scrap metal prices...no rifle you bought came with a box or instructions....and I'd be out with the thing and discover something new concerning how it worked.....almost like that.

 

Lol I plan on getting the felt washers, already have the greese just didn't bother throwing on yet. Thinking of just getting new terminals too

 

Can’t wait…. I get mine back tomorrow with its new set of Billies and 2883s….

 

I'll bet you'll like them! Seems like these trucks are affected very differently by suspension depending on whether they're RCLB, AC or DC, so it'll be different for you, but I really like my 2883s with 4600s.

 

I've been too lazy to do it, but shifty`'s advice on the buffing is something I've been thinking about. My paint is definitely chalky, and yes, everything sticks to it. Anytime I get mud on it, I need to use the foaming brush at the car wash. Just spraying it won't get it clean.

 

Low buy-in here, just to show you an example of what's possible. Grab one of these from your preferred source, specifically the orange one. Grab a bottle of this from your preferred source.

Wash your truck so you don't have residual grains of sand that will screw you over. Find an inconspicuous area that's dry and dirt/sand-free. Apply a squirt of polish to the honeycomb side of the pad, silver dollar sized. Firmly work it in 6-8" overlapping circles slowly on your desired incsonpicuous panel, with medium-heavy pressure, overlapping each circle about half an inch. Repeat back/forth 2-3 times. Buff away with a clean terrycloth towel that, again, is free of sand/dirt. If you don't see a significant improvement, I'll be shocked.

 

Thanks! I think the random-orbital sander purchase plus the time commitment are what's held me back, but I know they're low hurdles. I have no doubt that buffing will produce amazing results. Just hasn't beat out other projects on my priority list. YET.

Between my truck, car, utility trailer, slide-in camper, camper trailer and other stuff, all of which are old and requiring maintenance to even be functional, I just have too much to be concerned with my truck not being shiny enough and having dirt stick to it. I care about it, and I DO plan to do it at some point. Right now I'm trying to get all my stuff ready for use this summer, so I'm not taking up summer weekends working on my stuff. I want to just use my stuff this summer.

 

Before you make the investment on the orbital, you're looking at ~$25 for a proof of concept. The truth is, you're going to need those two items I just mentioned to get the tight areas, namely the A- and B-pillars of the truck, the ridgeline above the rear window, the strip of metal below the bed, that annoyingly tight area under the rear view mirrors on the doors, etc. You won't be able to run a random-DA/orbital on those areas, and that hex logic pad is your ticket.

Since you've got to pick them up anyway, and you probably want to test an area BEFORE you drop money on the polisher and 6" corrective pads - just to make sure you're going to get an acceptable result - it's the only reason I mention it.

The reality is, if results are good and you buy the polisher, I'd recommend to practice on the tailgate since you can take it off, lay it flat on some sawhorses, and sample various pressures. You'll probably find (like I did) that the semi-circle body line on the tailgate is a bugger to polish out when it's time. But it's also one small, cohesive panel to cut your teeth on, get a feel for it. Then I'd move to a bedside (or both). Then the doors. Then the roof. Then the hood and fenders. Then do the fill-in spots. It's a hell of a lot easier and less monumental (speaking from experience) if you break the job up into panels.

Just make sure you wax anywhere you polish once you're done, or it'll oxidize again in a few months.

 

They’ll fit with just a few more mods…

 

Nothing an angle grinder cant handle.

 

Probably have to cut the bump… oh wait, nvm

 

Wide 35’s hit my uca’s even though the jba’s have more clearance than stock uca’s. Assdogs adjustable uca’s must have even more clearance. I dont think he had front spacers on.

sidenote: i need an engine bay/interior decorators thoughts on powdercoating, would a gold intake and red valve covers/brake calipers/uca’s be a bit too german? Should i keep the intake silver? Maybe paint something green in there to throw em off?

 

You spelled thousands wrong haha. I've honestly been putting it off because it's going to spiral out of control. LT, glass, bypasses.. Then I might as well order rear glass and then I'll want the truck painted. Then I'll want my rear end redone. Then my wife will want a divorce haha

 

I honestly like the silver. Polished manifold would look hot.

 

then you’re gonna want an 8krpm ls swap.

 

i’ve got a belt sander, to see how solid that casting is. I’ve polished a b16 valvecover, and a ford 7.3 turbo hardpipe (for an exhaust on a 2 dr hyundai accent.) if its a good casting, i’ve got the time, if its got bubbles, it’ll get filled & powder coated, or jet-hot’d.

 

Why is that engine compartment so glossy?