2022 Tundra Suplemental Transmission Cooler?

Thank you sir!!!

 

I think I've gotten my parts list sorted. Need the toyota WS fluid on top of all this, but running this without a thermostat (for the time being, should not be an issue) keeps the initial cost under $250 with the derale unit.

 

The trans has a thermostat built in.... Unless you plan to pin it.

 

No, it’s going to get pinned. If I run the thermostat, it’s likely going to be the improved racing unit.

 

I have the push lok fittings for the hose connections, as well as I still need to order the thermostat/bypass and then figure out the inlet and outlet from there.

 

I installed a Derale 13503 at the end of february, my thermostat was pinned and line still running through the radiator. About a week ago I decided to bypass the radiator completely. This had the opposite effect I was hoping for. I had my trans temps hit 230 in stop and go traffic over the course of an hour with ambient temps at about 90. I just intalled the Mishimoto universal cooler (40k) which is significantly larger than the Derale unit. This seemed to do the trick with keeping temps down when bypassing the radiator. For those of you that plan on bypassing the radiator and live in a hot climate I would strongly suggest oversizing your cooler. These 10 speeds get hot.

 

This is why I went with the TruCool 40k. Ive always bypassed the radiator/puck/warmer bs and went straight to the cooler. Living in SoCal and having 110*+ ambient temps, I dont need the warming effect from the radiator.

 

In this image, the red line is heading back to the trans, correct? I am planning on completely bypassing the OEM puck with a new cooler. The non circled line will be feed to the cooler from the trans where I will be installing an improved racing thermostat, tied into those two lines. The outlet of the thermostat is going to the cooler, shouldnt really matter which port on it, as long as both ports are upright for air evacuation.

Really the major concern is getting the OEM lines oriented and connected to the right spot on the thermostat.

 

Anyone?

 

check posts 176-178 maybe they will assist you in where to re-channel transmission fluid from existing routing to, through, and back. With the thermostat "pinned" and the proper size unit you will find acceptable results. I did not by-pass any portion of the oem unit using the connection locations in the referenced posts - temps were 210+ prior and now even towing are 180's max and well below that when not towing. I run a Derale 53482 unit.

 

If I am interpreting this correctly, interior line, under the airbox is cool return to trans, and exterior line, closer to the fender is hot supply?

 

what size aluminum angle did you use? That’s the only portion that’s holding me up from installing mine.
And did you only secure the top bracket?

 

How is it working out so far? I've got my 40k installed, just weighing my options on plumbing options.

 

Well, after a trip from Texas to Florida and back with the radiator bypassed I decided to re-route back through the radiator. For whatever reason the trans runs about 20-30 degrees cooler running through the radiator. Even with the Mishimoto cooler it would reach 190+ much quicker than I liked in stop and go.

 

Radiator might help knock it down some before it reaches the Mishi. Mind sharing which line you plumbed into?

 

I agree, I think the bottom of the rad is helping.

 

no by-pass for me. Never reaches temps noted by those who have by-passed. As noted / suggested the routing via the radiator must provide some additional cooling not present when by-passed.

 

This would solve the stop and go issue.

 

Mounted. Going to try and plumb it next week.

 

I plumbed into the drivers side line (Return to trans)..

 

I just pulled my 8k lb trailer and loaded truck about 1K miles in 90 to 102 deg. heat. Up and over the Grape Vine leaving LA and up to Sacramento. My trans oil temp gauge on the right in the dash never went over the half way mark. It was rock steady at the 1/2 mark from the first 10 miles. The engine oil gage got up to about the 3/4 mark. This is on my 25 1794 non-hybrid with TRD OR package, i see no need for and oil cooler on my truck.

 

does the gauge tell you the actual temp, or is it just a measure of scale? Might try using an App or OBD connected device to actually see what the temps if those readouts are the later. Nice truck for towing or any other use though!

 

No actual temp reading. i will use the carista app and see what temp 1/2 way on the gauge actually is. Sucks this world we live in where manufacturers are afraid to give actual data for lability or service reasons.

 

Made some experiment a. had to take my wife to the airport, then pick her up newt week and today to take my friend to the airport. The round trip is about 250 miles. No trailer and no cooler with Carista monitoring trans temps.

With the original setup the temperature went up to 195F very fast and was staying 195-200F on HWays between the cities steady driving 70MPH and 200-205 in the city's HWays with some traffic so the speed was from 55 to 75MPH.

Then i pinned the thermostat and ran the same rout next week. It took about 70 miles for transmission to slowly get to 175F and stayed there almost all the time raising to 179-180F while in the city's HWays.

Today i ran the same rout, however on the way there, there was a traffic jam for about 10 miles and on way back the traffic was heavier than usual so more accelerations and decelerations.
The temperatures stayed 179-181F with one time raising to 183F

Also last week made two very short, about 10 miles runs with my tritoon about 5,000LB. The temperature never went above 145F

Also, it seems to me the fuel consumption was a little better. The first run it showed 19.5MPG. the last run with heavier traffic it was 20.0 MPG. But it is not significand and in margins of error.

The ambient temperatures were the same ~ 80F on all runs.

So far i think i'm good with pinned t-stat and without the cooler but will see when the temps go up and i have to tow my tritoon more.

What say you Tundra gurus?


.

 

If you only haul/tow
10 miles you should be golden. If not.....take it on a 200 mile trip and see what your temps are. Odds are without an additional external cooler you will want to add one.

 

Just finished a 700 mile trip without the trailer. All Highway miles 65mph to 80mph. Ambient temps 70ish.

Radiator fluid temp 190's max.
Engine oil temp 145 max.
Trans Pan oil temp 150 max.

If you don't have an external transmission cooler I'd recommend you add one - even if you never tow. My pre-none transmission cooler oil temps (not towing) were 215ish for the exact same trip.

 

TIS isn't the best place to find parts. Here is the parts layout for the transmission "cooler".

 

That is the one I have. Just waiting till after the engine replacement to install it. No sense in paying for it twice.

 

I was towing my 6k lb boat home and up a pretty good grade in about 90deg. weather. i used Carista and checked the trans oil temp. It ranged between 205 and 215F with the dash gauge sitting pretty much in the middle and coolant temp at 190. My truck does not seem to need an additional trans cooler.

 

That's great.

Mine got up to 220 WITH a cooler on a long steep mountain pass here in Utah in 80° ambient.

I did notice it stayed just under 200 the rest of the trip, even on smaller climbs.

Personally, I think 220 is fine for short bursts a few times a year, but I also drain and fill the pan annually.