General Supercharger Thread

I find it interesting all these new blowers have something like this. Back when we used to spin the absolute piss out of small eatons spray nitrous through them etc we had no issues. The decline in robustness is definitely apparent.

 

That sucks, sorry.

Opened bank 1 valve cover, looks great to me. (has 100% loss on leak down in piston1)

 

That low frequency throws me off. I can't envision what would be spinning that slowly to potentially create that slow of a rhythm.

 

The sound syncs up with the marks on the belt, about once per engine revolution, increases with throttle. The tensioner isn't bouncing, all pulleys are running straight and spin freely, and I just replaced all 3 idler pulleys. I was thinking it could be the throttle body blade bouncing, but confirmed it wasn't. Every hose and wire is zip tied to keep them in place so nothing is flopping around and making contact. If I use the screwdriver stethoscope method, it's definitely coming from the SC snout/rotor pack, and the sound goes away with a shorter belt bypassing the SC. I'm at a loss as to what else it could be...hoping Harrop has a suggestion.

 

I hope it is an easy fix.

 

I was trying to watch the marks on the belt, but maybe the playback/recording frame rate made it look off. Have you considered taking the belt off again and trying to rig up some way of spinning the blower separately with the engine off but with a variable speed power tool or something like that?

 

I'll see what I can come up with, I will be putting on the shorter belt to bypass the SC anyways so I can drive this week.

 

Could be the snout bearings only making sound under belt tension.

 

Was talking to the guy thats doing the install of the Magnuson and said he couldnt do the install of a set of headers while he had my truck.
The only reason I can think of is he doesn't know how to tune the 5.7 when you start adding other performance parts.
Seems that Toyota gave him the procedures needed to set up the truck without other mods.
Thats the only reason I can think of as to why he wont do the headers.

 

Could be because they are a bitch to install. Guy did my Doug Thorley's quoted 800, said it took 3x what he thought & he would not do it again for 2k.

 

I agree with @e30cabrio , probably more work than he's willing to do without charging a small fortune.

 

My thoughts exactly, I reached out to SCOL as well to see if they have replacements.

 

This is what I was going to say too. You can’t really pinpoint the source of a noise as long as the moving parts are coupled in any way, even a flexible belt. I deal with it all the time trying to determine if noises are coming from fan bearings or motor bearings at work, you have to spin them independently.

 

If I bypass the SC, I'm turning everything except the SC pulley and the noise goes away. Spinning the SC pulley by hand doesn't make any noise or feel any different, but I'm not putting any load on it.

 

IMO that is not a bad bearing sound. That sounds like a belt issue, or an issue with a pulley/belt alignment on a larger diamater pulley or perhaps a specific spot on your belt timing perfectly with each rotation as it goes over the SC pulley. Bad bearings make a constant howl/grinding or squealing sound, not a rhythmic tap 1-2 times per second.

 

It sounds exceptionally loud as well, but it's so hard to tell from a recording. I agree that it's certainly not a grinding/howling noise, more of a striking sound, to my ear.

 

I've used multiple belts, and the pulley alignment is laser straight (tested with an actual rifle bore laser resting on pulley ribs shines on same spot on other pulley ribs). The belts are aligned on each pulley and running straight. Every pulley is mounted straight, torqued to spec, and have very little runout when I check with a dial indicator. I agree that bearings usually sound like a grinding/howling noise, but I've also read forum threads of others with knocking that were solved by replacing the bearings in the snout.

 

This crazy thing helped me find the noise in the BMW rear suspension. It's worth every penny. I can lend it to you if you don't want to own one.

$73 Shkalacar Chassis Ears Automotive Electronic Stethoscope, Mechanic Stethoscope Car Engine Noise Detector with Headphones, Multi-Channel Sensitivity Diagnostic with Extension Cables & Handbag

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CCPBF9HJ

 

I used the old screwdriver to the ear, as well as a shitty stethoscope I have. That would be good to have as well, and I can get it overnight.

 

Sounds like you have done your due diligence, I’d just hate to see you go through a PITA repair for no reason is all. With this type of thing it can even be that the problem isn’t really known but after taking everything apart to try a repair on a whim like replacing bearings and putting it back together together the issue was unknowingly addressed and all we can do is attribute it to the repair we did because, well, we don’t know. It will be interesting to hear what Harrop thinks.

 

I've wasted more time on this than I care to admit...if I had hair I would have pulled it all out by now. I am also eagerly awaiting Harrop support's reply. I figure replacing the bearings and oil would be good to do either way since I installed the blower in 11/2020, even though Harrop says the oil and coupler are good for 100k miles.

 

<sitting quietly as i read this part, with a partial fearful grimace>

I'm at or near 100k on the Harrop.

 

Now you got me thinking. I changed my coupler/ snout bearings on the 1900 in 2015 but now thinking I should order the bearing kit. I have a new coupler but since I'll be pulling the snout maybe do the bearings too.

 

Might be a good idea with that mileage. Taking the rotor pack off is easy, the snout isn't much more difficult. My snout-to-rotor pack bolts felt super tight when I removed the snout to install the GM snout, I used a deadblow hammer to break the snout loose from the sealant they use. I used the attached document as a reference.

Couldn't hurt, the snout bearings should be relatively easy.

 

I have a long tube headers, it's a pain to install.

 

I probably miss this, are you going to run it with Motec? 8hp, built block,

 

Haltech Elite 2500 piggy back for the engine, CANTCU to control the transmission will interface with the Haltech...I'm disassembling a used engine to build up, but want to get the transmission swap done before the built engine.

 

Just how bad was it?
Did you have to lift the engine off the motor mounts or anything like that?
Mentally I'm perfectly capable of building an engine,my problem is my bad hip that needs to be fixed for the fourth or fifth time.
I have all the tools including an engine hoist to do it.

Oh...I misspoke on the post before this.
it wasnt Toyota that had the issue it was the S/C installer.

 

Depends on the headers, I would plan for 6+ hours. When I installed AFE long tube headers, I had to remove the driver's side engine mount and disconnect the intermediate steering shaft. I also had to remove the starter heat shield on the passenger side. When I installed the ARH long tube headers I only needed to remove the starter heat shield to get them in place. Trying to hold the header in place when starting the nuts on the exhaust studs was a chore. An extra set of hands would be helpful.

**Edit** I forgot, I also had JBA headers for a short time, they also only needed the starter heat shield removed to get into place.

 

Okay...that doesn't sound to bad.
Hell,anything I can accomplish in one day isnt that bad.
So did you require a retune afterwords?