Tuning Options for 3rd Gen Tundra Stillen, JB4 or VR vs TRD

Maybe, Those 35's on your truck slow it down quite a bit. I wonder how much extra HP you'll need to just break even given that my truck has light weight 33's.

 

Definitely lost some power. I’ve been on the fence with the JB4….still under factory warranty….and this is my daily.

 

They're 35x11.5 Load Range C tires, and at 65# a piece, they're quite light for a 35. If that's your truck in the picture I already started out with 48 more hp and 104lb/ft of torque BEFORE the tuner. Regardless, this is a tuning options thread for 3rd Gen Tundras... we're obviously looking for performance gains so no need to rain on our irrational parade...

 

Someone ( @Daedalus )?? referred to the JB4 or tuners in general as the "35's weight / power offset."
My E-load 285's are even lighter than @Mooseditty17 's at 59# each, but it is still noticeable. Not terrible, but noticeable.
Probably more so in my case without the Hybrid.

 

Mine were 62lbs per tire. That is nothing to sneeze at in terms of unsprung weight. Have definitely felt a slow down. The compensation from extra boost pressure and timing (whichever or both if JB4 adjusts) would get you back to "stock" or even "stock+"

 

27# per rear in tire equated to a 36 hp loss.
Stock TRD pro tires are 41# and mine are now 65#, so I should expext a similar loss.
https://youtu.be/vOb75j2nEn0?si=rOypt6qrkUg0qheC

 

Absolutely.

I had 18" wheels on my GTI, they were 17lbs a piece, and the tires were 235/40 R18. Maybe 35/40lbs per corner....made a HUGE difference with respect to power going from the stock wheels and tires.

BUT, in my opinion, having nearly 8.5" of sidewall to absorb obstacles and other things...plus looking much better is a great trade off.

You can always add more power

 

When I tuned the 3rd gen on 35’s, I saw a 20Hp decrease over what supposedly is stock numbers, so larger tires are in fact power robbers. To regain that power back is to increase your mechanical advantage via differential gear ratio. Add that in with tuning and you’ll have a very enjoyable truck. Even with the 35’s on, I got 45whp and 76wtq on 87 octane with conservative map adjustments. I’ve since made a few other conservative adjustments and expect that those numbers should go up on my next run. The potential for these turbos is very good even without any performance add ons such as intakes.

 

I imagine, as with any modern turbo car, catless or high-flow catted downpipes will produce the most bang for your buck aside from a tune. Its unfortunate that there aren't any that I am aware of being available. Short of gutting the stock pipes and cats, and running a spacer...

 

https://dirtydeedsindustries.com/st...-on-catless-down-pipes-for-2022-toyota-tundra


If you get these let me know how bad interior drone is. I've been seriously considering them, but don't want a headache on long trips. Especially when towing.

 

OOOOF....

If you have the stock muffler, i can't imagine they would be bad. Cats are more or less flame arresters

 

Can always do a custom job. Booger weld you some rigid conduit.

 

Don't tempt me with a good time. I've got a cheapo 120v welder from Amazon that does a decent job for small jobs.

I had to route my external wastegate somehow under the car, ended up with a stainless 90* turn down connected with flex exhaust pipe under the car....



Lemme dig a picture.

 

Janky, but dumped it under the car as needed.

 

Flex pipe is the hot rodder definition of janky.
Sadly, I can relate.
Sometimes, you gotta do what you gotta do.

 

It’s beautiful

 

Comparison of acceleration times from FastestLaps.com:



Yes, the stock I-Force MAX beats the I-Force at 0-60mph and 1/4 mile times. But NOTE: The non-hybrid beats the hybrid truck at 0-90mph and 0-100mph times and is a dead heat at 45-65mph times.

The electric motor in the hybrid only works for a few seconds at launch and then drags down the engine (not to mention the extra weight). I would expect the non-hybrid would beat the hybrid in a 1/3 mile race. (They would both eventually be speed locked at 107mph )

 

That is very interesting, in relation to the operation. I wonder if there is any way to tune that portion...just for curiosity's sake. I have the standard 3.4.....

 

BTW anyone notice the icon that is displayed when you hit the speed limiter? I tried looking it up but it seems to not be documented. "I heard from a friend" that he hit the limit and a Icon on the display lit up but didn't get a good look at it.

 

I've hit the speed limiter a few times and no cluster icons appeared.

 

Because you were looking at the cluster instead of the road?

 

Yes, for brief glimpses just like everyone does every time they drive.

 

I did that in a 97 TT Supra, ya, I was going a little faster than a tundra, lol

it was a fast glance at the speedo, heheh.

 

I beat a hybrid with my non-hybrid with a JB4. Extra weight doesnt help them and me being 2wd helps me quite a bit. They are quicker out of the hole since the torque is instant, but I reeled him in just as quick. A hybrid on a tune/piggyback will leave me in the dust, no doubt.

 

For the record. No tuner, on 35s. Mix of Hwy and city.

 

24 Pro.
35s
No Tune

 

So I got my tundra 2025 Non-Hybrid last month , and true that's it's more fun to drive than the previous generation, but still it's in my nature to try to get more power!.

First thing I got was the Banks Pedal Monster, after that I decided to get a tuning box, so decided to go with the VRTUNIGN box from Vivid Racing, the outcome was disappointed.

I decided to get the dragy device to make some runs and the result from stock vs the tunign box was a mere .5 seconds in the 0-60mps. video here https://youtu.be/y4bLvREUlEI?si=Dp-6TXUc0wwxIm7g

the VRTUNIGN was returned and now I'm waiting on the JB4 to arrive, will do also runs 0-60 to make comparations. will post video once done.

 

My experience from back in early 2000's I was the shop forman and engine builder for a speed shop build lots of fast engines and drag car frames. We bought a new mustang GT and the boss wanted to prove we could make more horsepower than the factory. After new headers, 3 different sets of cams, intake components and tuning devices we failed to gain more than 10 extra horse on our chassis dyno. The boss and our tuner decided we threw enough money away and figure we just couldn't get past the factory tune and restrictions. Not sure much has changed in the years since good luck in your search

 

Installed yet? Impressions?

 

When you’re ready to reflash the ECU, hit me up.