What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Definitely a whistle, like a tea kettle, or ringing in the ear high pitch.

starting to drive me nuts!

 

Cap the F B J! Nobody wants to be fabby!

 

Out with the old and in with the new!
Was getting annoyed with the mounting of my trailer brake controller and decided to upgrade to a more minimalist footprint controller so I bought the Tekonsha. Love the look and ability to have a few set trailers in it with the Bluetooth. Was a little bit of a pain to find a spot that I could mount it as the rear of the unit is fairly deep and needs space.

 

I have a 30 amp fuse assembly just like the one on your battery terminal, I assume it's just factory tow package stuff from the earlier trucks.

 

Yeah that seems to be the most likely case based on what others have observed as well. But could be on other occasions that it was also part of the older curt kit installs.

Tried measuring the tailgate end that I posted earlier that was just hanging the whole time with my neighbor who is an electrician with tons of tools, legit contractor grade multimeters, etc. Weren't able to get a reading on it unfortunately, so may have to wire it up from square one. The harness could just be dirty and grimy since it's been dangling with no cover for who knows how long. We didn't spend a ton of time on it so we'll probably get a better look at it again

 

Trace it back from the dangle. You're liable to find someone either disco'd something, or spliced it poorly.

 

The dangled/open end is part of a split thats connected to the tailight, it then splits and runs up the frame to towards the battery, and another line goes to the hitch 4 pin connector as pictured. I don't know why the dangling end was open to begin with though




The bottom of this picture shows the line going to the trailer hitch 4 pin connector before the picture cuts the actual connector off from view

 

Rust repair. Still need to sand and bondo but looking good.

 

Looks good! I'm pretty scared of what might be underneath my fender flares...

 

Oh yeah, they totally used ScotchLoks on that 4-pin pigtail. Damn, that sucks. I'd probably peel the tape off, see how they got into it, remove any splices, cut/solder the wires, liquid electrical tape, then re-wrap.

Looking at the video you posted, I'm assuming that dangly connector in your first picture is this guy, and someone pulled it out of that plastic insert, eh? I pulled the install doc for the Curt package in that video but sadly it doesn't show the wire layout of that connector to know what should be doing what. (more info after this pic)

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I know you said your neighbor helped with a DMM. But ... things to consider. First, on that connector, if I look at the Curt pictures, it looks like the only thing that would have constant power to test on that OEM connector would be the center pin BUT it'd only have power if you had that short tether at the battery side connected. Clearly, Curt's connector is only picking up on four wires on that OEM harness with the arrow I put above. Those are here (but will obviously be reverse-image on the OEM connector - and again, more after the image):

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Worth noting something else. If you are testing at the OEM end of the harness on the 5 "outer" pins (i.e. all but the center pin) you see in my last image there, you probably won't see voltage on any of them unless, for example, you've got the hazards on (two pins should be alternating power), or the brakes are mashed (one pin should show constant power while brake pedal is pressed).

So I guess I'd ask you: When you and the NASA scientist were testing for voltage at the OEM connector, did you have something wedged under the brake pedal, and the hazards flashing? Did you test that center pin while feeding voltage into the little grey harness next to the battery?

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Pinch weld rub lines, or no? (I assume these were on the front at some point and got rotated back)

I ask because my 285/70r17 had same issue, see the right-hand side of the old tire here.

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Fortunately not, those lines are just from cleaning the rust and debris the fell onto the tire after removing the fender flare. I still don't have any rubbing from the tires but I expect that will change once I move to 5100 struts

 

OK, will try to cut the tape and see what is going on and/or cut and resolder if needed. May end up just rerunning a line and fuse from the battery just to not deal with it though. And yeah that's what I was assuming too, but then there's another connecter plugged in there on mine--which is what is throwing me off. We only briefly tried checking the dangling connector that does not have those same 5 pins so far. Will have to do a deeper dive into it probably tomorrow when I'll have all the stuff in to hopefully complete this project anyway.

 

I guess I'm not really understanding what's going on with the wiring then.

If it were me, knowing how to use a DMM, I'd probably...

• Locate the grey connector beside the battery that was used for factory tow package, shown in that video
• Apply a signal to it, I assume it only has one terminal inside, maybe use alligator clips to clip on its terminal, then clamp the other end to the battery terminal
• Go to the back of the truck and test the (I assume center pin) of the connector I put an arrow on to see if +12v is showing, but for shits and giggles maybe test the rest too, in case the center pin isn't what's hot
• If you have power, you know the wiring is correct, and the Curt system you posted in that video will work for you

There are other ways to test this, if there are two terminals on either end, like shorting one end of the connector at one end, then testing for continuity on the two corresponding terminals at the other end, but if that power feed is a 1-wire, then ... there's nothing to bridge, other than bridging that single wire to something you can read, i.e. +12v

 

Did you and your bud happen to check the 30A fuse ?

Looking into that further, that is indeed the same type inline fuse and harness Toyota provided.

Also attached TSB AX006-02 dealing with wiring harness for 7 Toyota vehicles.

 

That makes 2 of us haha. But I don't think the connector you pointed out in the picture is the same as what I have dangling (which is the one I checked). The dangling one is a female end without the pins in it. I need to just follow like what the video shows (which I didn't do yet, I was curious about this open/dangling connector) and what you're saying. I can overcomplicate/think things by being too curious sometimes smh

 

ahhh, thanks for pulling that. We did not, will do a more thorough check of everything tomorrow and hopefully get it all done

 

Speaking of towing- my truck does not have a hitch, and I will need one this summer.

OEM ones are still available but cost $60-100 more than an aftermarket one. Worth it? I like how close the OEM one tucks below bumper and stays hidden behind it.

 

Don't you have to have the right bumper support for the OEM hitch? I was thinking maybe they were different but I'm not for sure. Did your truck ever have a hitch on it?

 

I don't think the truck has ever had a hitch. I've got a brand new bumper and the whole support assembly for it, but isn't that just for the bumper pull hitch?

Edit: can I put a 2" receiver on the support for the bumper?

 

I found a used curt one for mine. No issues.

 

I know the truck is closer to the door in one pic vs the other, but comparison of the original style mini projectors and the 160w (top).

It’s definitely brighter in person just aligning it. It’s got more scatter, but I’m thinking it’s the clear vs black housings. I’ll report back after driving it.

 

The abberation (purple) is definitely much more tolerable. Curious how it looks at a distance.

 

Did you happen to notice how much sand and shit was up behind the sidewalk of the bed?
I don't have flares and mine.ia starting to get small rust spots. One side is worse than the other but from what I understand sand and what not gets up in that area and slowly works away from the inside out.
I think i.was loosely quoted around 5000 to repair the bed and paint. Didn't matter the amount of rust and was told may be better to.buy new sides for the repair.

 

Someone else on here used replacements from a Dodge pickup to replace his and it turned out (IMHO) quite good.

 

It does collect mud and dirt, I usually spray up in there pretty good when I wash it but I think the main issue is the seam sealer they use between the wheel well liner and bottom edge of the fender around the wheel well. Once that stuff fails it creates that pocket.

 

Generally it's just good old 3M double sided tape around the top edges of the flares that holds it to the bedside. The clips provide the actual holding power. It does wear over time and allow debris into the pocket.

You can always replace the tape to refresh it. Clean the bedside really good of the old adhesive tape and reapply. We also use adhesion promoter wipes to help the adhesive of the tape sick to the panels better.

 

The seam sealer gap is visible from the inside. It's between the metal arch where the fender flare screws in and the outer edge of the wheel well.

 

I've read that on here never seen it. I'll probably get some quotes and try to find some bed sides when a sale is going on.ayne that'll save me someoney on the body shop side (not having to cutout Bondo etc.). If I'm paying I'd rather not have Bondo if it's avoidable.

 

You posted some great pics of the problem over here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/box-wheel-arch-rust.125599/#post-3212509

@gbcpope said he was gonna use Dakota arches to make it work. Another memeber "had a friend do the work" and posted pics, but hell if I can find it now.