What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

What's up with that Long travel taco

Looks nice. I gotta do on my dad's camry one of these days. The fabric is a bit beat and the carboard support under it is falling apart

 

My buddy's truck. Full dirt king setup.

 

Niceeeee

 

Did the rear drums and shoes today and spark plugs to continue working through the long list of base lining everything.

Shoes and Drums installed and went in smooth, snapped a brake line in the process of replacing the wheel cylinder so I had an excuse to get a new tool (brake line flaring kit). Got it installed and bled the lines.

Took it for a test drive and now get to play to game of why it shakes when braking:
A) I didn't bleed the lines correctly
B) the new drums were out of round out of the box

Cast your votes!

 

Bleeding incorrectly wouldn’t cause shaking in my opinion, my guess would be drums out of round.

 

Did you buy aftermarket drums? Because this is often what happened to others when buying aftermarket drums. The drums were out of round (warped) straight outta the box, because store brand parts are absolute fucking shit these days and the manufacturers couldn’t give a flying fuck whether you like it or not. They know you’ll bitch up, carry it back to the store, complain, get another set, and install it, potentially be willing to repeat once or twice. They don’t care about your time.

If you did buy store brand parts, stop supporting those MFers. Vote with your dollar. If you stop buying shit parts, they’ll stop selling shit parts.

EDIT: But if not aftermarket drums, it could also be air in the lines. You bled the LSPV, right? If you touched the shoes, it could potentially be you didn’t set springs or cables right too.

 

Truck is coming together after some big overhauls. Re-manufactured Toyota steering rack and new outer tie rod ends, rebuilt shocks with fresh bearings/ misalignment spacers. New UBJs. New soft lines for the power steering system, OEM clamps, and an Amazon PS reservoir. New PCV valve and hose, spark plugs, and air cleaner. Hidden winch is tabled for now, with lights in its place. Probably forgetting a few things.




My OEM PS resevoir was pretty nasty. Used a ton of brake cleaner and compressed air with minimal progress, so taking a gamble with this:

Forlevlaep Power Steering Reservoir for 2000-2007 Toyota Sequoia Tundra 603-678443600C030

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CSSTZHD6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title






Nasty.







Noticed this crack opening up on the seam of this coil on cylinder one. Hasn't been causing any misfires or anything. Tried heat-shrinking it, but it wouldn't fit in the engine after so I took it off. Will keep an eye on it and probably order a new one soon.

 

That crack won’t cause a misfire. Below that plastic is grounded. Then another layer of plastic. Then another ground ring. You don’t get to live* copper until about 1/8” below the outer skin.

I have a new reservoir. Need to get off my ass and install. But I just realized after installing the new intake tube, I need to replace the soft lines coming off the bottom of the res. Need to get off my AAA and buy those. They look wore out.

 

Good to know, wasn't overly concerned and figured I'd look into it later since the truck's been running fine.

 

I just might have to snag a set of those Methods, they look great. Which ones are they?

 

How did you go about diagnosing whether or not your pwr steering pump is bad? It feels like mine is barely working but I haven't really diagnosed one before apart from cleaning out fluid and the filter

Also hell yea on all the progress bro that's awesome! Are you going to Sedona next week?

 

They're the NV305s in matte black. There's also a double-black option and the simulated bead lock bolts are black instead. The simulated beadlock ring kind of helps protect the valve stem, but it allows water to puddle inside of the lip.

The MR703s look very similar but do not have the simulated beadlock. They have the Method's bead-grip groove which some people like, but the valve stem is a little bit more exposed.

Haven't replaced the pump yet, but thinking of going to a junkyard and pulling one due to the stress it was going under prior to these repairs and being way too low and practically empty at times.. Once I fully bled the rack and system today, the pump felt like it was quiet and back to normal. I feel like I can go lock-to-lock with the touch of a finger, with the front end off the ground. I'd also check to see if it's the u-joint on the steering shaft binding if you're having trouble steering.

Cutting it close for T2S especially with my alignment appointment, but I should be there.

 

I made my decision; I’ll be getting these preassembled from Josh at 1stGenOffRoad …. I’m going with 5100s w/ OME 2883. Thanx all for your help.

 

Aftermarket yes, parts store no. I try to avoid buying anything from the "big 3" unless I'm in a bind and need something right away. They're Raybestos Element 3s, which I came to find people usually say good things about. Obviously not OEM and this may be where I learn my lesson.

I did not, just at the corners so that's my first stop, I'll see if that does the trick and if not then I'll pull the drums and take them in and see if they're out of whack.

 

I bought my leveling kit from firstgenoffroad.com. That’s a pretty good site as the owner of the site is a first gen enthusiast himself and owns one. He also has the other gen stuff too. He pre assembled my springs and shocks as well, so it was just a bolt in thing once I received them. I see he has the 5100’s for sale on his site. The best thing is you can call him and ask him questions and he’s very knowledgeable. I wanted to fit 285/70R17s on my 05 double cab and he confirmed the 2887 springs would lift it enough (2.5”) to prevent rubbing other than the need to remove the front mudguards (which he told me that would be necessary too). And he was right. You might look into him and his site. His name is Josh. He has YouTube videos for install and fit info as well.

 

Haha. I responded to your post and then I saw this post afterwards. My bad, but glad you found a place to get them either way! Josh is a good dude.

 

I think you'll be happy! I just put 2883s with 4600s on my truck, and I really like the ride. If you decide you want just slightly more lift in the front, 1stgenoffroad sells 1/4" spacers for the front. I used them. That 1/4" more or less splits the difference between the 2883 and 2884. I didn't want to go 2884 and potentially be squatting in the back. Of course you'd need to disassemble the coil/shock to get the spacers on, but that's not a big deal.

 

If I could give you one piece of advice that will save you wasted time and energy (from experience). When removing the old rear shocks, don’t waste time trying to get that top nut off where it mounts to the top of the frame. Mine and from what I have read, most others had the same problem, where that nut is rusted on badly. I used a sawzall and cut through the skinny part of the shock, it took 30 seconds per side vs effing with trying to get that nut off for 2+ hours.

 

Only reason I mention LSPV bleeding is, air in a hydraulic system will cause pulsation and vibration. This is ultimately what causes groaning in power steering systems, for example. Given you broke a line and popped off the wheel cylinders, it serves to logic that you may have air trapped in the system - the LSPV is the highest point at the rear of the truck, and highest point in the brake lines other than the MC.

While I don't trust Raybestos products as far as I can throw a crate of them, I'd resolve the bleeding of the LSPV (then re-doing the rear wheels after) before considering the drums are out of round.

There are tools to verify if the drums are out of round. I don't know if chain auto parts stores will have them these days or not. A machine shop absolutely will, and can turn them back to round again, typically for a small charge, something auto parts stores used to do bitd. But ...

 

Just make sure you cut pretty high up on the shaft. There's only about 3" of clearance above the top nut pocket IIRC, so if you have 5"+ of shaft because you lop off nearer to the shock body, you're probably not going to be able to lift it up/out.

I ended up having to cut thru the nut on one side to expedite the process.

 

Agreed, I cut right under the nut(basically through the old rubber bushing) which created some smoke, but a lot less heartache.

 

It's such an awkward spot to get into without notching or hitting the frame by accident, too. I used my dremel with a half-burned-thru cutoff disk. I couldn't imagine trying to do it with a fully intact, fresh disk.

 

Smart man. That top mount is a design flaw for sure. The lower one was easy at least.

 

At least they give you a little bit of leeway in there. Pivot-head ratcheting wrench worked pretty good for me on both sides. But it was enough of a PITA that I took pics to show how I accomplished, thinking it may help someone later.

That said, reinstall is much easier, at least with the 5100s, because they've got an allenhead in the top of the post. I tossed the longest allenhead wrench I had, and propped it against the bed support with the ratcheting wrench already mounted.

​

 

LSPV has been bled, no discernable change. So my next step is throw the old drums back on and see if that resolves it which will tell me if it's the drums or if I messed up in the springs/cables.

 

Let us know. I have a feeling you're gonna fing the drums are out-of-round, and we'll add you to the list, and I'll update the 'aftermarket fails' thread with a note telling people to avoid Raybestos drums.

 

Just swapped them back over to the old rusted OEM drums. Smooth as butter. Add Raybestos deservingly to the list.

Now do I source new OEM drums just to close the loop or let it ride since they're still within spec, just ugly.

 

Today I remembered to appreciate the Tundra. If I ever feel like complaining about changing the rear diff fluid, I only need to remember this. Here's how you drain the fluid from a ~1970-ish Ford rear diff:




Question: There are no brakes on this trailer. I mean there are, but just what's left from when it used to be a full truck. Will leaving the drums off cause any problems? Can I just bolt the axle shafts back in without the drums?

 

Mount the wheel and walk away. You won't see it again until tire rotation time.

 

Could you get your new drums machined or do your old ones have enough meat left and you could get your money back for the new ones and machine the old ones?