Best Way to Remove Broken Front 12 mm Brake Line Bracket Bolt @ Spindle

Well..finally got around to breaking my first bolt on the Tundra. I was replacing cross-threaded wheel studs, courtesy of Discount Tire (more on that later), when I snapped off the 12mm bolt that holds the LF brake line and ABS sensor to the spindle. Yikes!




From the backside:








The bolt did not give any at all before snapping off. TBH, normally I work with more patience and care to avoid this. Based on feel at breakage, I'm not convinced vice-grips on the backside will remove the remaining part of the bolt. I am hoping that someone with experience can throw some light on the best approach for removal.

Whatever it is, I am asking for specific info on tools and supplies to get this darn thing out. I reattached the brake line and sensor and left it in place for now, although I did break the 17 mm caliper bolts and retorqued back to 90 ft/lb. I also cleaned up all the studs with a 12-1.50 thread chaser and installed 2 new lug nuts on each side. I was looking to replace 2 studs on each front tire.

In one of the many videos I've watched on Tundra repairs, there was this guy with the secret sauce of brake fluid?? and some other chemical, maybe acetone or something similar mixed as a penetrant. Anyone know what that recipe is? I:m not sure PB is going to work on this one although I'm soaking the broken bolt regularly in prep.

 

But that problem did not stop me in my tracks because I still needed to replace 2 studs on the passenger side. I've not replaced wheel studs before so this is the setup I came up with for installation. I couldn't find an oversized 12 mm nut or flange nut nor a suitable open ended lug nut so I decided to use a stack of washers lubed with moly grease along with one of my mag style lug nuts. I also borrowed an impact wrench. 4-10.9 grade 20 mm washers sandwiched between 2-20 mm hardened washers looks something like this...










Not sure if this method is right or wrong but it zipped them right up. I only needed to repair 2 studs on each side but have the remaining studs on order from this last national sale for installation at a later date.

I probably would have used 18 mm washers but the local ACE jumped from 16 mm to 20 mm so 18s were not available.

 

So last fall, after having my tires rotated and balanced at Discount Tire, I suddenly had acquired 3-shorty lug nuts on my front wheels instead of all longer mag style on my 17-in OEM rims. I noticed this shortly afterwards but was dealing with some medical issues and was in the hospital 6 or 7 times over the fall and winter. So, a couple of weeks ago, I went back to Discount tire with 3 new Dorman longer lug nuts to have them installed along with tire rotation and balanced. They ended up breaking one of the studs after pointing out that two of them were tight on the right front. Their work from last fall.

Looks like they cross threaded them from the get-go during the previous rotation and balance. This is what the two studs I replaced last week looked like along with one of the shorties they put on last fall without saying a word about it.

Think I should go corporate on their sorry arses?

 

One last thing. I am having trouble with getting my tires mounted when working on my truck. I'm getting longer in the tooth but mainly I am significantly weaker and lost a lot of strength in the hospital that I don't believe is coming back anytime soon. Does anyone have any tips, tricks, tools, or aids that would make it easier to get the darn things back on?

 

I was changing my diff fluid on my f250 and used my 1/2 inch impact while removing the diff cover. One bolt just sheared off instantly… I was unable to drill very much out but I did get enough out to use a shorter bolt and had 6 threads which did torque to spec.

Might try to build a weld up on the broken bolt making sure you can get a nut to sit on top of your weld and then weld the nut to your built up weld on top of the bolt. There’s YT videos on how to do it, you may not have enough room
To do all that in there. If you can get two nuts on the back side of that bolt and get some good heat on it you may be able to get it out.

 

The best way to correct this is to mark the center of bolt and drill/remove. Drill pilot hole then increase size till almost to the threads. Don’t forget some kind lubricants, then use an ez out to remove.

 

Kroil and heat also.

 

I believe ATF, automatic transmission fluid, is what you’re hunting for.

 

ATF and acetone, mix in a glass jar. Then brush on

 

I sit down, put feet under tire. Then lift with arms and feet up to the lugs

 

I worked as a mechanic, back in high school. Ive been wrenching my,own rides for 45 years.

Me personally, I never drop my rides off for wheels or tire installs. I pull all 4, and drop them off after cleaning the inside wheel hubs, so their tire balance machine is working as should. Rust prevents the rim to seat on the machine properly, giving a,false balance

They made these things called "torque sticks" which are made to different torque values. Problem is monkeys at tire places crank these lugs with an air gun past the oem torque, and their torque sticks are never going to properly set because they already surpassed their value

I torque my wheels, and leave the center caps off. This reminds me to retorque again after 50 miles of driving, then the center caps go on.

I forgot to torque a rim once on my sequoia. I ruined that rim, really fast.

 

This is how I mount my heavy ass 100lbs+ 37s. Works great.

 

Bro, not only are your swaybar bushings way over-torqued (far too squashed) they're also pretty well fucked. That lower one in your first pic is toooooaaaaassssst.

 

Maybe also worth noting, the front and rear lugs are different length on drum/disc 1st gen trucks: https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1925#post-3531304

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Induction heater. I got one a while back, and it is a complete game changer! If mine were to be lost, stolen, or broken I would get a replacement immediately.

$170 Mini Induction Heating Machine 110V 1000W 10 Coil Kits Auto Use Bolt Removal Tool PDR Car Garage Repairing Flameless Handhled Electromagnetic Induction Heater

https://www.amazon.com/EMAGIH-Repai...=&hvlocphy=9002555&hvtargid=pla-2281435180058

 

Yeah..that's why I have SuspensionMaxx links in hand along with OEM 27 mm bushings. Way behind on projects.

 

That's it! That's the ticket...

 

I think most of us can relate

I was just lamenting a few days ago about my freaking parts pile and how obnoxious it's gotten. I've let one or two things cause everything else to come to a crawl. And sadly, they're things I can't just hop on the horn and be, like, "Yo, come help out with this!" to a friend.