255/75/17 2WD SR5

im sure this has been asked, but my feeble mind cannot find the answer. will these fit on a stock, 2wd sr5 2003 model?

 

I have that size in a BFG KO2, and they did rub on the passenger side, mud flap/pinch weld area. An alignment with additional caster would probably help me but I removed the flaps and worked over the pinch weld area to eliminate the rub. I'm also in a double cab so not exactly apples to apples either.

 

thanks, these are km2, i already have the tires, and they are brand new, so was hoping it would fit. i don't mind working the pinch area if necessary, but wasn't sure if it was that close. Would not think being a double cab would matter, but you are 4wd, not sure if the suspension is beefier on that or not?

 

There's a thread for that: https://www.tundras.com/threads/largest-tire-you-can-run-stock-for-all-generations.9762/

 

thanks, glad i didnt follow that post, i went with it and they fit without no trimming, and didnt even remove mud flaps

 

Before and after

 

I don't think anyone on here would believe it to be true, honestly. What you're seeing in the other thread is coming from quite a bit of direct experience.

You're not rubbing at full lock, in reverse, or full lock in forward? And not slapping the pinch weld when the truck is in reverse, stationary, and you're cycling lock-to-lock on the ground?

The tires you chose are roughly the same diameter and only slightly skinnier than my 275/70r17, and I absolutely eat pinchweld, I had to trim my mudflaps, etc.

EDIT: Wait. I just noticed. You don't have the normal plastic mudfaps. You have the weird skinny ones. That makes more sense now. But seriously, check your framerails after 1k-2k miles to look for evidence of rubout, and check your UCAs for signs of tire rubbing the point. For sake of safety, and your tire health.

I guess 0.4" of tire width with 0.5" more backspace is just enough to clear the pocket, if you're being 100% honest. Color me surprised.

 

@shifty` My truck is the same setup as this one. I have the 4-runner snowflakes that are 17 x 7 15mm with 265/70-R17. How much difference would it make to go to this type of rim 17 x 7.5 15mm? I got a spare tire from an FJ that is that size and I could possibly swap my rims with a coworker to have a matching set of 5 (minus the black on mine) Just wondering. I'm not planning on going any bigger in tire size than what I have.

 

Short answer? If the width (7.5) and offset (+15) are identical, then the backspace is ~4.9" and the fitment should be virtually identical if running the exact same tire**

The wheel he's running is the OEM 5-spoke split which is 17 x 7.5 at +15 i.e. ~ 4.9" backspace. They made a couple variations of the OEM T4R wheels in snowflake and the design you're picturing, but at least one variant of each are 17 x 7.5 and appear to have the same offset thus ~ 4.9" backspace. Verify your width and offset to know the real-world truths!

** Important notes to make here: Different tire models and styles have different tread aggressiveness, with A/T being far more knobby than standard road tires, and M/T being even more knobby yet. That knobbiness, the aggressiveness of the tread, can add ½"+ more contact surface. Likewise, different manufacturers measure their tires differently. Like, with the KO2 A/T tires, a tire calculator will tell you the diameter of a 285/70r17 should be 32.7 or 32.8 but an actual KO2 tire in 285/70r17, last time I checked, is actually 32.9! Even worse, with my Mickey Thompson Baja Legend EXP A/T tire in 275/70r17 calculates out to 32.2" but it's a whopping 32.5" diameter tire in reality, nearly 1/3" larger than a calculator will tell you. This makes guessing tire fitment EXTREMELY difficult, and is why it's best to go with something someone has already done, or be ready to hammer and/or sell and/or trade-in your brand new tires if you opt to go your own way. ALWAYS, and I mean ALWAYS go to the manufacturer's website and look up the specs on the EXACT tire you're looking at, they'll tell you the true diameter and width at XYZ inflation PSI. However, a warning. Take "Doesn't rub!" reports from strangers with a grain of salt. I was told I wouldn't rub with my Mickeys. Guess what? I fucking rub. And it was way worse with the 285/70r17 used Wildpeak AT3W tires I put on for a while.​

 

I tried to see if I could see the markings on the back of the installed rims with no luck. But here is pictures of them side by side. The website says 17x7 15mm for new ones.




I am looking at Cooper Road and Trail 265 70 17 sometime next year and maybe getting the front leveled a bit so water can actually run out the back of the bed. I'm at just under 90k on lower ball joints and plan to do all of it at the same time while everything is apart. And yes, I know what I'm getting for parts already from the main thread. I have to get this axle replaced first this year.

 

I saw the 17x7 spec on at least one or two, with the +15 offset, but I'm having a hard time believing the numbers are right (on the specs, not the calculator below that shows the backspace with those numbers). That would put you with an even shallower offset than what a lot of the 1"-2" wider wheels are running.

Really, you just want to be somewhere in the 4.25-4.75 realm with your backspace to be flush and/or have a fair bit of poke (lots of factors there), and sit comfortably off the UCA from what I've seen with other installs. One of the factors is fender trim/flares. You have the thin trim. That means you'll push out past the fender well about 1"-1½" quicker than someone with fender flares like me. I'm sitting just about flush with the flares with a 9" wide wheel and 4.5" backspace, if it gives a reference.

​

 

thats great if nobody on here would believe it to be true lol, that's on them. proof they DO, is right here... speaking of direct experience .

Im posting this for the next guy who is running factory wheels, and wants to go with this size of tire, in my research i couldn't find any in this configuration.. but it worked, and as i said in post 5 they fit. fit as in do not rub, didnt remove mud flaps, and of course no rubbing, if they rubbed i wouldn't say they fit,...

im pretty sure my mud flaps are factory?
anyway, they fit well, super happy with the look, and the way they ride.

Just picked up this truck, its like brand new with 70k miles

 

This is where I found the numbers for my wheels from
https://www.hubcaphaven.com/p/16430/aly75153-toyota-4runner-wheel-silver-painted-4261135520.html

 

I wonder what the wheel well opening dimensions are with the fender flares and without like mine and OP's? There is still so much space in the fender well on mine and I'm running the inch bigger diameter tires on the 17's over the stock 265/70-16's that came on it. Granted, my current tires are also down to about a 1/4 of the tread left. I'll double check the markings on my rims when I take off the rear tires to swap out the rear axle here soon.

 

This guy also said "no rub", for example, but I think most people on here know that's only true if he's driving in a straight line everywhere, and never hitting any bumps. I technically "don't rub" also, until I'm in reverse, backing out to the left. At about 3/4 lock, I grab mudflap, but I have the plastic OEM mudflaps and plastic fender flares, which adds more heft to my opening, and more stuff for my knobby ass tires to grab.

All this to say, I don't doubt you, but we've found the concept or definition of "rubbing" varies from person to person. Like, if it's not rubbing 100% of the time, then there's "no rub". Or if it catches the pinch weld while turning, but no other time, there's "no rub". Some people say, "

There were a couple styles of factory mudflaps. These are mine, if it's interesting.

Yup, my truck had low-mid 60k original miles when I got it. I was happy because the service records showed regular oil changes, and the timing belt had been done with the Aisin kit. But this is what I found under the valve covers, because the original owner who put the first 50k miles or so on the truck, he only drove it on short trips, 5 miles to work and back, every day. And he used cheap Jiffylube type stores with cheap oil. Low mileage is a sign of limited activity, which shrinks gaskets and seals, and can be indicative of short-trip driving, which is recipe for disaster in these trucks IMHO. Other low-mile members have found much worse, so I'm grateful mine was only as bad as shown.

 

It's a great Q. It's a pretty substantial difference, what you can stuff in each respective opening with the skinny welt and rubber flap versus the plastic flare with plastic molded flap. Pics for comparison:

 

I actually prefer the skinny look better on these trucks. Was so glad that my dad's truck didn't have the fender flares. The plain black ones look okay but I don't like the color matched ones. Not sure what it is. Maybe I just like contrasting colors for them. I do love the look of your truck though. I think mine will look better once I get meatier tires on it.

The rim I posted first on the silver truck is my coworkers stock Tacoma with 275/70-17s. He has some FJ wheels e wants to paint/powder coat and put on. So that is why I was looking at maybe getting his rims after he swaps them.

 

Based on the snowflake wheel specs, you may find your buddy's OEM snowflakes with 275/70r17 will bolt right on and not rub, or at worst rub minimally. I'd give it a shot, and report back (I'm certainly interested).

One important thing to note also: Alignment plays a huge role in whether or not you rub. I could probably align out most of my rubbing if I'd just get off my ass and get realigned to add more caster. A good shop (versus a chain store) will be able to tinker with your alignment to work out rubbing conflicts.

That said, if you plan on making a lot of changes in suspension, wheels, and tires, it may be worthwhile to find a shop near you that'll do lifetime alignments, and cough up the cash. Cost is usually less than 3 alignments, and sometimes as cheap as two alignments, so you break even by the 2nd alignment.

 

Pretty simple, no rub means no rub..
not a comparison to the fella that has 35" tires that appear to be touching in a straight position.

 

He would be keeping the tires. I just was looking at the rims.