What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I've done it 2x with a few buddies for help, set it down on sawhorses made of wood tied together with a couple 2x4s as runners that I could set the bed down on so I didn't have to put it all the way on the ground. The trickiest part after getting everything detached is getting up over tires while not hitting the cab with the pointy part (on front side of bed by the cab )

 

Your dash is lit up like a Christmas tree and you're saying you were in drive

 

Camping, trails, and being outdoors? Sounds pretty fun--will have to make it out 1 year. Always wanted to visit Sedona anyway

 

This is mine. You can tell there was something in the location @KNABORES has his warning decals. One of the two PO of my truck removed them, I guess. No clue how. But the fabric has a different tactile feel to it, and is clearly slightly off-color where the decal would be.

 

Alright so the labels that are on @KNABORES visor are the ones that you are missing. It looks like one decal is missing, but that's only because they used a large square patch of plastic for the labels to adhere to. You can see in this picture the full outline of the plastic backing in the below image.

 

I think I may just stick with the discoloring then

Less of an eyesore.

Maybe I'll find a cool, thin, iron-on patch to pop in there. Maybe I can cut something out on our 'new' Cricut machine, it looks like you can buy iron-on material to cut in one.

 

Something like this, hah.

 

I mean, I'm not discounting it, but I wouldn't want to cut that out on a Cricut. Ooof.

 

Alright, thanks for this, I've been in and out of my dash so many times, but not seen that 5 pins. I don't have the steering wheel controls. Oh well what's done is done and it works fine. ALSO Apple just pushed a 18.4.1 update to address "rare" issues with wireless CarPlay...

1" spring blocks coming today to jack my back end up by a bit. Also ran the ozone generator in the covered bed for an hour this morning to deodorize the carpet...

 

I ended up vacuuming mine. Didn’t help. Ozoned it, helped a bit, came back.

I finally ended up using this stuff: https://tuff-stuff.com/products/foam-cleaner/

Sprayed on 1x3’ wide sections at a time, scrubbed with a deck brush, vacuumed out. MASSIVE difference, and the carpet was actually black again, not the brownish-orange clay dust color it had been. I posted pics around here somewhere. Anyway, I highly recommend that Tuff Stuff product and they carried it at the local auto parts store.

 

Does looking up parts and doing research on new leaf springs count as doing something?
I need to source a 2" rear lift block for new rear setup. Does this really matter brandwise?

 

Lift blocks. Eww

 

I know, that's what dude at archive suggested with his medium duty springs. 2" still better than 4 right?
It'll have to ride better than currently

 

Doesn't have much choice. PO installed a bracket lift, he's making lemonade from lemons...

 

Finished replacing the clock spring. My steering wheel volume controls weren’t working and passenger air bag light was on. I went the $30 eBay route so we’ll see how it holds, so far so good. Dealer wanted $700

My park light is fine, it lets me shift in accessory mode

 

It will end poorly. We've seen it a few times now, there are replies, and possibly threads on it.

And, seriously. You're going to do that with a part that could cause a bag to violently explode in your face while driving, or save your life in an accident?

You do you, bro. Last thing I'm going to buy is some cheap chinesium bullshit off fleaBay or scAmazon.

Standard Motor Products makes a replacement for about 60% less than the OEM. SMP makes some OEM parts for vendors, like the fuel squid in some of the Vortec engines, for example. I think they can be trusted. But you're still going to be paying around $330.

Some folks on here have managed to find used units at junkyards for as cheap as $50-75, with guaranteed return if non-working.

FYI, there's also a ground that can be cleaned and resolve some issues that resemble a bad clockspring. I swore it was linked in the megathread but can't look ATM.

 

That or maybe get creative with the bastard leafs, AALs, and/or combo with 1" lift block. Admittedly the 2" block is going to be the cheapest and easiest solution. Probably even ride nice with those archive leafs

 

Cleaned up around the rear main seal. This has been leaking for 4 years now. It’s at about half a 1/2 a quart between oil changes.

it’s the final boss, of all the oil leaks I’ve had. They all seam to collect at this same location and cover everything in oil under and behind it. I’ve been taking care of them one by one

sprayed degreaser two days ago and wiped everything down. This is it today. I’m pretty sure It’s the rear main seal. everything above looks clean and it looks like it weeping from the bolts. I took off the inspection window didn’t see anything, does our transmission have weep holes?

driver side


passenger side

fixed leaks in the last 4 years
Coolant o-ring bypass, oil cooler, valve covers and steering reservoir

 

Same issue, same process here. I just put in

$15 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 in my oil the other day hoping it helps me out.

It's s worth a shot for you to try it out. It's the cheaper of the alternatives.

 

Interesting. Looks damn near identical to @Dakillacore, who also has a DC 2006. Hmmmm....

EDIT: Damn internet crashed on me while posting. And now I see DKC replied. Oh well, I'm leaving it because conspiracy theory.

 

Just ordered a bottle. Watching some YouTube videos on it. Did you wait for an oil change or did you do it to your current oil?

 

Just sayin’



holy pinion angle, batman!

 

I’ve seen some mixed things about it. If I get a couple years, I’ll be happy. If it dies next week I’ll splurge on oem.

 

So I want to throw this out there for input. I love the way my truck sits and don’t want to change anything appearance wise but for in town driving it literally beats me to death (pretty good for knocking out kidney stones). It drives great on the highway but really is rough around town. That being said at 173,000 miles the factory shocks need replacing. Not sure what struts were use to lift the truck but pretty sure they are cheap. From what I have learned on this forum this is what I have come up with and I’m leaning towards the 4600 for comfort but open to suggestions.


2006 Tundra Reg Cab 2WD. With. 265/65/17 tires


Billstein 5100/4600


Old Man Emu 2883 Springs


Replace all worn bushings


Allign as close to:


-0.3 camber, 2.6 - 2.8 caster, 0.1 - 0.2 total toe (0.05 - 0.10 per side).

My truck for reference:

 

I had just got an oil change before I added my bottle. I didn't plan it that way, it just kind of all fell together.

Shifty gave me all my info and said that you need to drive around 500 miles with it in there. If you're going to change it soon then you might want to change it first before adding it in there.

 

All those are great ideas and both shocks are great options. I think the shortest 590lb coils is possibly the equivalent to new OEM (non-TRD-progressive) coils. The RC should pair well with 4600's or even 5100's set to the bottom clip.

 

Are the 5100's available still? I had the pre-assembled set link for the 5100's saved in my "Parts to buy" word doc, but now it takes me to the 6112's instead for some reason. It's hard to locate a site to buy them.

 

5100s are. Preassembled 5100s maybe not.

 

It's a sign to go ahead and get the 6112's. Worth it imo