2024 (3rd Gen) / Non Hybrid / JBL Audio - Upgrade thread

True for this type of harness, but they do have another harness that allows for further integration with more than just the Sub. I'd hope they would keep the same type of alignment with colors to help prevent confusion.


2022+ JBL Tundra Complete audio system Plug & Play HARNESS PACKAGE- Factory Integration - Taco Tunes - Toyota Audio Solutions

 

Not sure I understand your position there.
Neither TT nor AHH are using matching Toyota colors on their jumper harness.
What makes the TT more user friendly?

I not trying to debate the merits of one over the other. They both do the same thing and I'm sure both will work fine.
AHH does give you the option to break out whatever wires you choose to pigtail, so that's why I went with them.

I was able to get the pinout of the 30-pin connector from Brian at AHH so I know exactly which speaker circuits I'm dealing with.
@brianNC44
Thanks Brian!

 

According to the pinout chart I have: (from AHH)
6 pigtail wires on TT harness left to right:

Pin 1: yellow: 12V+ constant
Pin 3: black: ground
Pin 20: SUB - (negative)
Pin 5: SUB + (positive)
Pin 14: LH Front Door + (positive)
Pin 29: LH Front Door - (negative)

 

I'll be honest I originally responded this while working. I think I had in my head it was the picture of the factory harnesses.

You are totally correct it doesn't matter on either company. Because this is a completely new harness anyways. You can just match it up.

 

Scope creep incoming.

So I did a thing. If you scroll back to post#53 you'll see I posted a pic and a link to a PPI 3-way component set, and of course I bought it.
I know they're not Focals or Morels, or even JL's, but I doubt my old ears are gonna know the difference.
Seeing as how this was meant to be a "budget" system upgrade, up to this point using what are essentially previous vehicles cast-off audio parts, I wasn't about to spring for a $600+ set of components.
I'm driving the whole shebang with a 10 year old, 5-channel PPI amp, so why not a PPI component set?

The scope creep part is that speaker upgrades (beyond subwoofer) were going to be stage 2 of this project. Well, they just got rolled into stage 1. Wish me luck.

 

Just like their post described.

I'm going to look into low freq bass blockers for the front doors as they are very bass biased.

 

Don't believe you have gotten everything hooked up yet, but wonder if you just control the bass output on the LC7i, and completely lower the bass from the head unit? What it would sound like.

 

Sub box (re)build is done.

Down-firing, single 10" MB Quart Discus DS1-254 in a sealed 3/4" MDF box. It has dual, 4-ohm VC's that I'll be running at 2 ohm from the PPI 900.5 amp.

It was previously just a free-standing rectangular box that I originally built for a Scion TC hatchback. It sounded amazing. Tight. Accurate bass. Not boomy, but plenty loud.
Pics will show the angled "addition" that sits on the center tunnel in the underseat storage area that brings the box volume out to the recommended .65 cubic feet. It was undersized before, just under .50

After smoothing everything out and rounding all the edges, I finished the MDF in Rustoleum 2X Ultracover Paint & Primer in 4 coats of gloss Deep Blue. Followed that up with Rustoleum "Stone" in "Granite" textured finish to help hide imperfections. (The original box was covered in black Plasti-Dip.) I think it turned out OK. I just hope it sounds as good as it did in the Scion.

And of course, stickers for added HP. Because Racetruck.
Oh yeah, the "JBL" sticker is going to get a red "X" across it via some red vinyl pinstriping.



Next step: Amp and LOC mounting on the back cab wall.

 

Idk if that's possible with the jbl setup and might a lot more work too.

 

Yeah, I haven't found a real clear answer. This what I did in my 2011 GTI. Turned the bass basically off (@headunit), and controlled all the bass through LOC and Amp. Worked great and kept from my doors rattling.

 

How is this $1,500? Is it worth it. A oem A-pillar with new speaker. Anyone buy one yet?

https://www.mtiacoustics.net/toyota...for-2022-Tundra/p/451787929/category=76058023

 

$1500 for just the pillars, no speakers. Only explanation I have is that it takes quite a few hours to do custom work like that. Pillars are probably $100-$150 a piece and then $1000 in labor. Personally I’d do it myself (although it would be nowhere near as nice as theirs) and anybody could do it for ~half the cost or more if you have the time/patience.

 

Hey all.

I’m attempting to add an amp and new component speakers to the front and rear doors. I purchased the TT make your own harness wire adaptor. They do not provide a stock wiring diagram explaining which wires to tap from. My plan is to buy AudioControls 4.800 amp, sum the signals from the stock woofers and tweeters in the amp, while using the factory wiring. (The only thing that was respectable in the truck.) Then run the power to the passive crossover supplied with the Infinity components. I have been taking notes of the wiring from the stock speakers, but it would be helpful to have the 30 pin color diagram.

Thoughts on if this will work? Did I miss the colored 30 pin call out?

 

Has you verified the sum of the a pillar tweeters and front door speakers represents a full range signal? I am considering a similar route but my sticking point is the possibility the fronts are an active 3 way system where the dash speakers are supplied a midrange signal that isn't provided to the doors or tweeters and would leave some frequency ranges out of signal being summed.

 

I haven’t but that’s a good idea. I’d probably go to a local studio shop so they could assist.

I did have a thought today when I was swapping out the rear door speakers with 6.5” infinity components. I wonder if those high level speakers inputs would provide the full range to feed the output channels? I know one of the AC amps will copy the signal from channel 1&2 to 3&4, not sure about the 4.800?

Also, when I added the power leads to the crossover on the rear door, no music was playing. I’ve read that the woofers and tweeters are in parallel and must be used to complete the circuit. I plugged the stock tweeter back in, all 3 speakers worked. I left it plugged in for now until I figure out how to integrate this amp.

On another note, I decided to replace the 6.5” components in the front with 6x9 components. It took a couple spacers to accommodate for the extra depth, but they fit. They sound way better than the stock. Now I really have to get that amp installed.

 

"I haven’t but that’s a good idea. I’d probably go to a local studio shop so they could assist." -- If you do find anything out, please report back it would be greatly helpful to many here, myself included.

"I did have a thought today when I was swapping out the rear door speakers with 6.5” infinity components. I wonder if those high level speakers inputs would provide the full range to feed the output channels? I know one of the AC amps will copy the signal from channel 1&2 to 3&4, not sure about the 4.800? " - - Take a look at the block diagram from the amp. on the LC6.1200 only the front high and front 1/2 channels are summed. The LC 4.800 looks to do the same. The rest are just amplified.

"Also, when I added the power leads to the crossover on the rear door, no music was playing. I’ve read that the woofers and tweeters are in parallel and must be used to complete the circuit. I plugged the stock tweeter back in, all 3 speakers worked. I left it plugged in for now until I figure out how to integrate this amp." - - You have to use a connector like this one plugged into the tweeter connector -

$14 RED WOLF Car Front Dash Tweeter Speaker Wiring Harness for 2008-2022 Toyota RAV4 Camry 4Runner Highlander Scion, 2010-2019 Subaru Forester Factory Speaker Replacement Adapter Connector Non JBL System

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RMZ4CR6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title to get the woofer to work as they are wired together. It is a full range signal but the bass is tuned down pretty low in the rear. This is how I wired mine using that adapter. Note the red input wire (typically noted as +) from the factory amp is going to the negative terminal on the crossover. This is due to the adapter being set up with the polarity opposite of how the truck wiring is set up. After the crossover, wire everything normally if using a factory wiring set up. Probably want to draw it out to make sure you get it right.


"On another note, I decided to replace the 6.5” components in the front with 6x9 components. It took a couple spacers to accommodate for the extra depth, but they fit. They sound way better than the stock. Now I really have to get that amp installed." - - 6X9's are stock on the JBL equipped trucks. I used this adapter and drilled the holes out to make it work with my 23.

$18 Metra 82-8146 6" x 9" Front Speaker Adapter for Select Lexus and Toyota Vehicles, Black, Apple

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IIC6CPE?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1. You will want to get longer screws with larger washers if you go this route as the modified adapter holes may become a bit too large for the factory screws/washes. I found the screws used to secure the mudflaps work well for this (I had extra from when I added mud flaps to my truck).

This thread documents part of the work I did on my truck. I am not running the beatsonic dsp currently. I wanted to work out the system to play nice with the factory amp first then maybe add it later. https://www.tundras.com/threads/2023-w-jbl-audio-speaker-replacement.154664/#post-3865522

 

Thanks for sharing. My 2025 Tundra with JBL definitely came with 6.5” components in the front and rear doors.

I’ll order a couple of those adaptors. I ran the power from the woofer to the crossover. And I agree that the bass is turned way down in the rear.

Would it make sense to use the rears high levels to feed the amp? I’m still not sure how to wire it, but it arrived yesterday.

 

For the rear door, its a full range signal that is fed into the connector at the tweeter. The positives and negatives of the tweeter and the woofer are connected together inside the connector on the back of the tweeter. Instead of doing what I did, you could connect to the tweeter using the adapter I linked too, wire that to the input of the crossover and then use your own leads to connect to the woofer and tweeter ignoring the factory woofer connector.

 

Right on. It sounds odd that there’s full range signal being sent to/thru the tweeters, but I like your suggestion. Then I’ll run power from the P crossover to the woofer using those adaptors to connect to the tweeters.

I watched the AudioControl LC 4.800 video on YT. He installed tweeter high level inputs for a high range and midrange HLI and then summed them in the amp. (Which is why I bought this model). Thinking about it, could I just use the rear speaker level inputs, sum them, and feed the fronts and rears? I was planning on using the stock wiring and splice the amp in using an aftermarket harness. But if it’s easier to do this knowing I get full range from the rear doors, I would run new wire to feed the fronts.

It’s hard to know exactly since so many of these speakers are run in parallel with eachother

 

Keep in mind that the connectors I have linked to have their polarity opposite the factory wiring. The red wires of the adapter will need to be connected to the negative input of the crossover. After the crossover everything can be wired normally (red = positive, black = negative). The wiring diagrams here https://www.tundras.com/threads/ultimate-tundra-wiring-diagrams-collection.81448/ help a lot in making it all work.

 

Yep, I get it. I edited my last post and added another thought

 

You would loose a lot bass since the factory amp tunes that out. If and when I go down the amplifier route, I will install this an ap4-ty14 https://pac-audio.com/products/ap4-ty14. I have heard good things about it and it would eliminate the need for summing. I know you already bought the LC4.800 but the AP4-TY14 would complement it nicely and allow for a full range signal to be delivered to each location should you choose do it that way. Or you could use the built in crossovers.

 

I did think about going that route. Almost too many ways to skin a car out there. I’ll think it over. Ultimately, I’ll swing through my local car audio shop and ask if they’ll use an RTA to verify the frequency range prior to installing the amp. Understood if I get the PAC, I won’t have to worry about that.

A couple thoughts:

1. If I grab the signal from the HU to the rear doors before the amp (using the AM harness) would you still have to worry about attenuation from the stock amp?

2. With the PAC unit, you would get an AM harness for the stock amp out and connect whatever channels I’d want to power with the AM amp? The benefit is having full frequency sound?

 

1. If I grab the signal from the HU to the rear doors before the amp (using the AM harness) would you still have to worry about attenuation from the stock amp

- The signal from the back of the HU is full range, however, the volume control is handled at the factory amp not the HU. If you want to keep the functionality of the factory volume knob active, you have to get the signal at the amp or have something that can maintain that interface such as the PAC or the J.A.R.V.I.S from taco tunes. Its worth noting only the PAC will route your system prompts (navigation, beeps, etc..,) through your aftermarket amp
There may be other units that do the same, but I haven't found them yet.

2. With the PAC unit, you would get an AM harness for the stock amp out and connect whatever channels I’d want to power with the AM amp? The benefit is having full frequency sound?

The benefit is a full range signal with no time delays or other filters added into it. It would be clean. Very clean. It would greatly simplify the install. Instead of active fronts, you could go passive with a standard passive crossover, and since the voice prompts are routed through the PAC, you could effectively remove the dash speakers from the system. You could add a an active crossover in between thr PAC and amp and create an "Active" front system with the dash speakers that way. You could also do what I am thinking about and create a passive threeway front system. There is a lot more freedom when you go with the PAC. Its like the old school systems where you get a clean pre out signal from the back of the head unit and route it to the amp.

PAC offer a harness that allow you to splice into all the factory amplifier speaker wiring. Its most complete harness i have seen offered without a special order. But it is purchased separately from the amp. You could purchase the harness and use that to sum the front highs and lows and route the AM amp back to the fronts assuming it provides a full range signal. If the channel summing doesn't work out, you could install the PAC later and simply cap off the output side of the factory amp and use the RCA's off the PAC and AM amp.