RainMan's 2021 Lunar Rock TRD Pro Build

Any update on the progeny and her SO? How long since the accident now?

 

Been like 15-1/2 months now?
They are doing good.
He’s pretty much 100% - riding dirt bikes and training for a triathlon, and working full time.
She’s back to work, but still dealing with hip and back issues that will likely plague her for her entire life - she can’t stand for more than about an hour at a time without having to lie down to relieve pressure. Still doing PT twice a month.
They are looking at buying a townhouse using some of the settlement money - it will be good for both of them to be in their own place.

 

For what’s its worth, Travis Pastrana, put out at least one, maybe more, videos covering his injuries and how he’s recovered from them.

Found one. FF to 25m to get to his recovery methods..
https://youtu.be/wjo95b0qGQo?si=FVDq6aLlofbCh1XL

Hell, he seems like a cool dude. I’d reach out and see if he’d take a quick call to go over recovery techniques. Bet he would and doesn’t hurt..

 

Had a busy day yesterday doing octothorpeteetwoessprep

Trimmed the mud flaps to alleviate the small bit of rub, which is WAY cheaper than a set of ARK mud flaps right now.

Rub spot:


Marker layout of area to trim:


Finished product (used the M12 oscillating tool):


And installed:

 

The Sherpa Handle Light Brackets in this last week, so I went ahead and got those mounted. The BD Rock Lights will be here this week, so either they will get mounted in a hurry this next Friday or I'll have a camp mod to work on when I get to T2S...

 

I also completed the wiring for the BD Rock Lights that are mounted in the Bullet Proof Diesel TBL housing.

For now, I re-purposed the "Reverse Lights" switch that I had been using for the tow mirror reverse lights. I need to order a new switch with a more appropriate icon/name, but haven't decided what yet.

I'm running the lights directly off the switch, because the two lights don't have enough draw to burn out the switch (they are 0.4A each light).

(I need to get a picture of the lights).

 

I organized my sticker collection into groups. It pretty much fills a 30-cal ammo can.

• Name Brands & stuff
• ToyoMafia slaps (there's some rare shit in there)
• Friends/Avatars/Special
• Funny shit

 

The rear window decal had been showing it's age, so I went JDM Stealth Mode with a new one.


I also stuck a bunch more patches to various carpet spots but didn't grab any photos.

 

I spent a fair amount of time working on getting the Puddle Lights from the Platinum Mirrors hooked up using "factory" wiring to work off the footwell/dome light circuit.

The Footwell/Dome light circuit is negative switched with always-on (battery) +12V, so it doesn't work to connect the hot from the footwell to the puddle lights or they will always be on (they use a shared ground in the mirror that combines with BSM ground). Note that this is not the case for people using an fully aftermarket puddle light kit since they are running a dedicated ground.

The plan is/was to use a relay that had the coil connected into the footwell light power, and then run the puddle light power through the switch side of the relay. The negative switch on the puddle light would trigger the relay and that would kick on the puddle lights. I spent a bunch of time getting a relay wired up, finding a nice mounting spot, getting all the wiring in and tidied up, and when I tested it, it looked like it was working perfectly...

I made a handy break-out harness for the power and ground that uses a male "light bulb" plug from VLED, a new bulb socket from scamazon, and the the tapped pigtail for wires to run to the relay.


Until I tested locking the truck and walking away then walking back (which triggers the interior lights on the keyless start vehicles)...

The dome and footwell lights use a dimming "soft start" to come up to full brightness, and that doesn't play well with a mechanical relay coil. You hear a nasty "twang" sound as the relay coil vibrates until it has full power. And again when the lights turn out.

So, I had to rip it all out and move on (for now). I'm digging into some other options that might still work, so stay tuned...

 

AND, finally, I got the Icom coms radio powered up.

Ran a 12AWG power wire through the firewall and hooked it up to the Blue Sea SafetyHub 150 on one of the smaller fuse sides (the radio uses a 15A fuse). It is following the wires that run to the switch for the ML-RBS solenoid that acts as a disconnect for the winch.


Inside, I ran the power lead up to a relay mounted up above the fuse box - it is zip tied to an M6 stud on the main dash crossbar tucked up there behind the warning buzzer. From there, the switch side of the relay runs to the radio in the console. I ran the ground for it to the ground point in the driver kick panel, along with the coil ground. And then I used an old "Winch Power" AOB switch mounted in my switch spots next to the MagSafe charger (right behind the CAT5 jack for the mic) and ran that switch wiring from an IGN fuse tap and then to the relay coil. This provides a "double cut-off" so that the radio cannot have power unless the truck is on, the switch is engaged, AND I turn on the actual radio using it's power button.


The control unit mounted, hooked up, and powered on.


The only thing left is to figure out some sort of hanger for the mic. I also think I'm going to drop my head unit screen down one setting and then lower the control unit a little as well.

Oh, and order a different switch with appropriate icon and get a picture posted of that.

 

go tag your cargo lights at the switch on the knee bolster, does not fade in/out.

 

But then he doesn’t get the cool proximity feature… maybe running it into a 12v timer to trigger the relay would help.

 

Proximity smoximity…the relay buzz as trigger voltage ramps is AIDS AF

 

That’s my backup plan…because:

Maybe, but that’s stacking a lot of variables. I have thought about it, but have one other thing to try first.

Yes it is.

 

More important is finding aptly labeled switches

For the two little lights in the TBL housing
https://www.aironboard.com/online/push-switch-9b04nb-12volt-toyota-oem-hid-rear-lights-blue.html
Or
https://www.aironboard.com/online/push-switch-913nb-12volt-toyota-oem-replacement-work-lights-new-blue.html
Or
https://www.aironboard.com/online/push-switch-9b20nb-12volt-toyota-oem-sasquatch-light-blue.html

and for the radio
https://www.aironboard.com/online/push-switch-991nb-12volt-toyota-oem-replacement-uhf-radio-new-blue.html
Or
https://www.aironboard.com/online/push-switch-9b90nb-12volt-toyota-oem-flux-capacitor.html
Or
https://www.aironboard.com/online/push-switch-9b87nb-12volt-toyota-oem-low-beer-alarm.html
Or
https://www.aironboard.com/online/push-switch-9b85nb-12volt-toyota-oem-passenger-eject.html

 

Got the puddle lights working today using the footwell light circuit AND with the fade in/out and proximity sensor feature.

Didn’t get to a couple other things before I had to pack, but that’s ok. Feeling pretty good about the state of the truck as I leave for T2S in the morning.