General Supercharger Thread

That tune was off bad to melt that much stuff in that short of period of time.

 

This sucks...

But, I've gotta say, it almost seems like w/each of the major components in your truck, you're pushing them till they break then going...

This last incident of yours got me thinking though...

I know a lot of you guys are always looking for cores for engines and trans replacements and builds, etc. Do, you think you or anyone else in this thread would find value in my '08 as a potential donor for such endeavors. I'm closing in on 300k right now and coming up on needing to re-register it and pay my annual insurance premium, etc.. Also, my shift solenoid codes are coming back on again, and I'm tired of chasing those issues. I'm guesing there's something electrical or something going on w/the valve body as I can clear the codes, and it will shift through all the gears until it throws the codes back up again.

Anyhow, PM me if you think this would give you any benefit, and we can chat about it offline...

 

Can you please link the thread? I'm curious what transmission model they went with.

**edit** Nevermind, I found it
https://www.tundras.com/threads/6-0l-stroker-discussion.137524/page-2#post-3780795

 

Dibs if no one else

 

I think we all should be on this opp and have a spare parts rig lol block handy etc.

 

Damn...
Interested in the post mortem and what comes next for your build.

 

Well you do beat that thing like a red headed step child

 

So what you are saying is his next build will file a restraining order on him?

 

So, the Magnuson upper intake won't directly fit on top of a stock lower intake box?

In the future I wanted to move up to the 4" Maggy box/do the SABM along with a larger TB, boost reference, smaller pulley and get it tuned. Knock em all out at once.

 

Maggy air box top fits the early lowers. '07-'12 maybe?

 

It's on my '13.

 

07-13, years before the 2014 refresh, or "gen 3 wait JK gen 2.5"

 

Yep...I'm four weeks into my 6 week wait.
Which is fine in my case,still healing up from my fourth hip surgery.
Thank God it's my left hip!!!
It can just hang out on the floor board like always.

 

We put my stock 2010 entire air box and hose on my buddies 2016.. he says it runs better, peppier and idles smoother..
My 2010 airbox was bigger in size than his 2016. Gave him the K&N I had laying around for it too. I kept the TRD drop in.
Didn't notice any difference between the 2..

 

I've been trying to wrap my head around this as well. Why does a SCed intake need a different air box? The MAF sensor is only going to feed data to the ECU and the ECU is only going to allow enough fuel to match the air flow.

I will admit I am not chasing after every HP the SCer can offer. Please enlighten me or tell my uninformed ass to pound sand.

 

Well I found a deal on 2 complete 3urfe’s one has less than 1k miles with upgraded fuel rails that was going to go into a race truck but the race organizers wouldn’t tag it for the class and the other is from his built tundra that had a blower and hurt motor.

So I’ll stab the running one in and take mine out and build the backup and I’m going to give @snivilous the other for R&D for the community. Let’s see what the mad scientist comes up with

 

Fucking outstanding!

 

BEST WORDS READ ALL DAY!!

 

The big thing is the tube that the MAF is sitting in needs to be bigger to not exceed the 5v limit of the MAF sensor. The MAF in too small of a tube (like the NA 3.5” one) will have increased air velocity with the SC which will exceed the 5v limit, putting the MAF in a larger diameter tube and scaling it will fix this issue. That is why the magnuson provided intake lid MAF tube is closer to 4” where as the stock tube is 3.5”ish. Other than that, the larger diameter tube the less restriction into the SC inlet and you will make more boost and therefore more power with a larger intake, throttle body, SC snout etc. even without changing out the pulley.

 

This is good info. Thank you for that clear explanation.

 

That's way better than what I got as a back up..
We had a customer come in with a misfire on cylinder 5... He didn't want us to diagnose it and wanted a used engine to get back on the road ASAP..
After he was gone, I figured out what was wrong with his old engine and bought the core..$200...
It has 1 broken valve spring... And only 80Kish miles..
I never fall into deals like you did.
So awesome and happy for you!!!

Hopefully that "core" will be a fire breathing monster someday!

 

And to add some more info on top of what Silver17 said, you don't NEED a larger MAF tube, plenty of supercharged guys run the stock tube (like the Harrop and Whipple). If you hit the 5V limit the truck just ends up with the sensor pegged and giving the same value. It will throw a MAF out of range code, but nothing bad necessarily happens. The airflow to the ECU is no longer correct, but usually when you hit the 5V limit you're already pretty high in the rpm so the truck isn't running "blind" for a long period of time so it's usually not a big deal. At that high of rpm you're in open loop/power enrichment anyway so the truck is somewhat blindly adding fuel ANYWAY, so you can fairly easily work around the 5V limit and the code doesn't do limp mode or anything.

Likewise the MAF itself can be physically altered so the amount of airflow to hit 5V is different, which TurboKits offers a modified MAF that does just that. The larger intake tube as Silver said you get the benefit of an expanded 5V airflow range as well as less intake restriction, but some people don't want to do that so there are other options without needing to change intakes. Especially if you want to go above the Magnuson ~4" intake size, not a lot of options and the 4" can easily max the OEM MAF voltage, so where do you go from there? Usually a custom intake, or ignore the code, or get the aftermarket TurboKits MAF.

 

Damn I want a lift in my garage!!!
We have a 4 car garage,one's a SxS and the other is two deep with high ceilings.
The guy before us parked his Motor Home in it.
It would easily fit a lift!!

 

Why are you waiting?...

 

On the topic of lifts, what do you guys think of 4 posts? At first didn’t like the idea due to if you want to work on suspension parts you can’t remove the wheels, but then I found out about the bridge jacks you can add on that allow you to use a 4 post like a 2 post in that way. The idea of being able to store a car on the lift and then a car under it is pretty badass.

 

I'm being lazy.
And the older I get the less I want to work on my own vehicles.
But then if I did have a lift I'd find myself doing my own maintenance which would fly in my face and i'd not have an excuse to give the Wife.
Being retired I'm really starting to feel guilty about it since I have all the time in the world.
I'm still thinking about it though.
Being able to change my and the Wife's oil wouldnt save a shit ton of money but it would over time.
Back in the day I loved tinkering with my truck.
The thing is that today It's become a lot more difficult to do that.

Yeah....that list seems like a bunch of excuses.

 

Ok Rey. If you come across any more deals on engines give me a chime...
But glad you got a decent engine for you to use in the mean time.

 

I like them...if you have the realastate. Most peeps in communities are limited to 800sqft for an out building.

4 post lifts just use too much of that space. If you in the sticks and can have a 3k sqft building, then they are the best deal.

Be aware...adjusting the lift cables is kind of a pain. A 2 post has a similar adjustment procedure.

I have to adjust my 2 post every 2-3 years. It bothers me when both sides do not lift equal...

I have friends with lifts that never adjust theirs. They have no issue with the vehicle lifting at an angle.( It hurts nothing, but bugs me to no end).

 

I’m 40 and feel ya on this. I still enjoy tinkering but more and more I’m farming stuff out because I just don’t want to screw with it anymore.

 

I will admit that a 4 post lift is the best for a person with a bad back or issues with bending down or laying on the floor.

I hate having to position the lifting pads on my 2 post lift for the jack points. You have to lay on the ground to make sure the lift pads are contacting the proper lift points on the frame. You have to do this 4 times.

With a drive on lift, this is not an issue