Road master active suspension system

Has anyone used this on their truck? If so, has it worked? What have the problems been? What do you like about it?

 

Going on 2k miles with it on my 2018 2WD. The camper that lives on my truck is about 600 lbs over payload and my total weight is around 7300 lbs (over max GVWR) I have the RAS and blue sumo springs and I will promote these products to anyone who will listen. It leveled about 2 inches of squat, drastically reduced sway, and improved stability to the point I can forget there is 1600 lbs back there sometimes.

About 2k miles in and I have zero problems

 

Less lean in turns (like a rear sway bar)
Holds weight without sagging
Still articulates well when off-pavement

Kinda improves everything. Big fan. Read more in the thread in my sig…

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/roadmaster-active-suspension-review.103453/

Welcome and enjoy the read. I like the RAS better than air bags. You'll find a common theme. Nobody buys the standard version. Go HD and set accordingly.

 

I did a search before posting, and that didn't show up. Figures.

 

I can appreciate not finding it. I remembered it existed and found it on page 3 or 4 of the search. It's a big ask for someone to read through that many pages without the history.

 

Ive had it installed for years. Great setup and it does what they say. No problems. Much better alternative to airbags or AAL for me and my use.

You will want the Heavy Duty version for a Tundra.

 

Hi all, I just got the HD kit for my 2018 Tundra 1794. I'm having great difficulty getting the rear outside hangar/bracket-bar off the bolts so that I can slide the eyelet of the RAS into position. I got the nuts and washers off, no issue.
I've used PB blaster soaking in overnight to try again tomorrow with prying and hammering.
Jack stands are where the instructions said to put them, under the front leaf spring eyelets, and my jack is under the pumpkin. I lowered the pumpkin completely, off the jack, then snuggled it back up to it, and raised it about 1/2" like the instructions said.
Truck is still in the air tonight. Any tips is appreciated! Thanks

 

If I recall correctly, the bolt is actually welded/pressed onto one of the hangar brackets. It's been a minute since I've seen the factory brackets, though, so I might be wrong. You'll know when you have the right amount of tension off the rear hangar because everything just comes apart easily (assuming no rust).

Good luck, enjoy the RAS

 

Do you mean the one side of the shackle won’t come off like in the instruction photos here?

 

Yes, Terndrerrr that is the shackle I'm talking about. The other side needs to stay in place with the bolts thru it so the leaf stays in place while the RAS is slipped into position. Maybe I haven't found the right tension yet like bflooks is saying. I hope I can try setting the jack stands a notch or two higher to give my jack a little more room to be uploaded, and then just touch the pumpkin. I hope the PB blaster did it's job thru the night too. I have some rust, not a lot, but the truck was undercoated by Ziebart when I bought it used 2 years ago.

 

Here's what I'm dealing with.

 

Yeah it looks like you should hammer on a good pry bar alternating at the top and the bottom of that angled shackle plate.

If you try to pry it too hard at an angle, you run the risk of damaging the threads.

Truck’s weight needs to be resting on the jack stands with the axle weight supported by a jack under the diff. Don’t lift the axle up with the jack hardly at all. You want full droop with no tension on the leafs.

Looking at your pics, you might not be at full droop. Maybe you do need to raise your jack stands like you said. Hard to tell though.

 

Thanks. The drivers side is the one giving me trouble. I just got the passenger side off without trouble. It's got to be a load issue or something. I ended up putting the jack stands more forward on the flattest,rear ward part of the main frame to take load off the front eyelet of the leafs. I did hear a small pop on the passenger side as I started taking the lower nut off the lower angled shackle plate.
I don't want to put one RAS on w/o getting this drivers side one removed. I have full droop now too.

 

Looks like it's got tension to it, but you should be able to pop it a good pry bar, like others have mentioned... Not necessarily this brand (it was the first pic I pulled up), but a claw pry bar like this should pop it off.... I do remember when I went to put them back on, one side was definitely a bit more difficult to get back on than the other (don't remember which), and I remember being extra cautious tapping it back on cuz I didn't want to accidentally tap on the bolt and pop that sucker out.

I know my driveway isn't level, and I remember thinking that the unevenness of the driveway, etc. may have created unequal tension/droop...

Good luck

 

Then I think it’s only a matter of time and possibly sweat to break that shackle plate loose.

 

Thanks for the feedback Tripleconpanna, I do have one of those that I've been using too. I'm in my garage with truck centered over center floor drain, but who knows. This thing is finicky for sure. Seems like there is still tension somehow. Jack is just touching the pumpkin now, no difference to pry bar effect.
Maybe a heat gun? Don't want to use a torch since I used pb blaster already.

 

Have you cussed at it and bled on it yet?
Just messin with ya, persistence pays off with this one.

 

Lol Tundra family. Yes, and prayed too. Need to tow home a TT next Saturday.

 

Finally got it! Heated up with heat gun to 650* then beat the thunder out of it from straight up direction using rubber mallet. Loosened right up.
Thanks gang! Let's hope i don't get stuck again thru the install process! "Installation should take about 1 hr." Psshh ok. Maybe with a brand new vehicle. Lol
Cheers!

 

Excellent!! mine went together real smooth (twice) because I took it off thinking bags would be better. Now I have both.

 

Clear-as-mud.
I've used the 14mm socket on the lead nut in both tighten and loosen, and both options loosen the whole apparatus from in front of my U-bolts. This of course, requires me to get things where they need to be again, under the leaf spring securely seated.

How did you guys get your spring to gap?

Videos I've seen aren't really clear or consistent.

 

I got it done. Couldn't get it spread out enough for the black disk but I definitely surpassed the white gauge. Measured from the rear bracket to the rear base of the spring to ensure both sides had the same distance of gold rod exposed to try and make it more exact.