Another JBL amp bypass thread

Only FYI, that connector is what's carrying the speedo data (green/orange) and the other wire is reverse signal (Red/black for DC, green/red for AC/RC if I recall).

 

Makes sense given there is no wire supposed to be in R14 pin 2, if you were able to cypher the pages I attached.

Corrected in my below post

 

I can barely cypher those pages. I guess it makes sense that metra didn't build it into their harness... But, it's there, seems very factory, and is currently doing what I want it to do. So I think I can keep that function going.

Funny how little things like that get missed somewhere along the way. In the manuals or the factory, who's to say.

 

You're not alone, my friend.

 

There was indeed a needle in the hay stack...

Have looked at many EWD's in 4 decades of viewing them and I'm sure I've missed mistakes but the EWD was correct in this instance.

Funny what makes you lose sleep but with the above comments I felt that perhaps there was some validity that 06 does have illumination and that I was mistaken.

The below is what I found this morning....they are indeed sending Illumination to R14 pin 2(green) for 8 speaker w/o Navigation



Soooo.....ain't first time and won't be last BUT I ate crow for breakfast this morning, yuck !

 

I'm just here waiting until the end of this conversation to find out if I get dimming or illumination on my headunit LoL

 

So if I'm reading that correctly - knowing I absolutely suck at reading these often times - then ...

• 8-speaker trucks with R14 and R15 or R27 and R28 (which are all 20-pin IIRC) have illumination leads on pin 2 (+) with solid green, and just below it at pin 12 (-) with white/green stripe?
• 6-speaker trucks with R1 and R2 have the (+) solid green on pin 10, and the (-) white/green stripe on pin 5?

 

I mean, it's pretty much reflected in your image, which is what I was getting at prior.

Yellow box: You can clearly see the ILL+/ILL- wires there.
Blue box: You can clearly see the numbers stamped in the connector giving wire positions, I just can't read them.
Red box: Those five digits are the last 5 of the part number of the connector, so if the harness's connector prefix is (almost always) 90980- then tacking 12038 on the end of that gives you the Toyota part number for that connector.

​

 

Nice ya that's the one.

Is this what the OP needs? Not sure I do!

I could just use another pin for the metra connector but they won't help

 

The original post was trying to figure out how to specifically wire a 2005 DC JBL with Metra Amp bypass and 20pin with Axxess SWC. Shifty and Bubba filled in details missing in prior posts. I am almost done with my full install after wiring in the reverse camera last weekend. I had taped off the orange dimmer wire but now I'm hoping to be able utilize that functionality .

 

Well glad I could further the topic. The earlier content in this thread has been instrumental in my understanding of these same kits for my own truck.

Cheers!

 

Still trying to get the Metra SWC harness for Axxess to work. I ordered a 2nd harness from Crutchfield rather than Amazon and it still doesn't fit. The factory connector doesn't seat into and clip into the SWC harness securely. As you can see in the photo, I tried zip tying it together and snugging it down but the Axxess box still doesn't light up. I plan try to file this one down too.
I might also try vampire Posi tapping the SWC+/- wires from my headunit to the corresponding wires on my factory harness.

 

While I had the same issue with connector snugness, electrical tape worked just fine, as does your wire tie. May be wrong but I don't think snugness has anyything to do with box not lighting up.

 

Yea, I was hoping that I could pull the two connectors together further with the zip tie but it wasn't enough. I know that the Axxess box is good so I just think that there isn't enough engagement with the pins. The connectors definitely aren't fully together. Besides you and I , there are quite a few reviews on Crutchfield and Amazon complaining about this issue.

 

Mine was also very snug, but it did end up clicking into place.

 

The more I think about this, I'm going to lube the male connector and try to force it in with some pliers.
I'll report back

 

Have you considered getting the OEM corresponding male connector 90980-12261 which should fit more snuggly.

 

Interesting. Get the Toyota OEM male connector and depin wires from the Metra version? I think this will be my next step if the lube doesn't work

 

TWSS

In any case, I never mentioned it again from when I did back in Feb.

 

Hello @G_unit3000, fellow Northeasterner here .

I also have the JBL 8 speaker system in my '04 DC. I ran into the same question as far as what to do with the extra wires and saw the advice @shifty` gave you about wiring the tweeters and woofers in series for each front door to create a compatible ohm load for the aftermarket head unit to see. I also saw that you said this worked out well for you.

I don't currently have my bypass harness installed yet, but the Axxess TYTO-01 unit I have currently installed with my Pioneer DMH-1770NEX (which retains the OEM JBL amp) has been pretty wonky as far as flat sound, volume fluctuation and no proper balance/fading. Pretty much the same story most have had with it, not horrible, but sound is lacking now more than the OEM head unit was. And I've made sure every step was taken correctly with that Axxess unit, set OEM HU bal/fad to 0, turned vol up 60% before unplugging, adjusted the blue gain pot. I just don't think it communicates with the JBL amp very well for obvious reasons.

Shortly after installing it, I had to take my head unit out for a minute and the housing was hot as hell. More than just regular operating hot. That made me nervous. The only reason I could think of was that the current speaker ohm configuration was heating up the internal amp too much, even if it was routed through the Axxess unit.

So, in an effort to avoid slowly burning up my head unit, and since I'm still in the return window with Am*zon to get my money back for the Axxess unit, I think I'm going to pull it out, refoam my woofers and install the bypass.

I'm just curious if it's still been working well for you with the tweeters and woofers wired in series and being fed directly from your HU's internal amp, before I do it myself. Seems like a hell of a good way to still have a nice speaker setup without having to tear the doors apart and replace them all.

 

RE: load/heat.

If you installed the Axxess TYTO-01, the OEM amp is still installed. The amp is directly interfacing with the speakers, and taking all the load and power to them. The Axxess TYTO-01 (based on the wiring I'm looking at in their manual) appears to be taking the high-level speaker inputs from the Pioneer, and converting those signals to something the amp can understand, basically acting as a LOC (line out converter). Thus the Axxess unit should be taking all the load, and not adding load to the Pioneer. The Pioneer shouldn't be doing any heavy hauling, so whatever heat you're feeling on the unit is what's expected.

Do not be concerned the head unit is somehow being impacted by the impedance of your speakers. The OEM amp is handling that load. Your Pioneer head is essentially only generating a signal to feed the Axxess TYTO-01, and whatever other activities the head unit is doing.

@Dakillacore and I are currently collaborating on a solution with aftermarket radio, amp bypass harness, and aftermarket drivers. It's going slower than I'd hoped because I'm a bit overloaded, but we'll get there. I've been struggling not having a truck with one of these systems to get my hands one, to be able to setup, throw a DMM on and measure impedances while using the bypass harness, etc.

More on that later ... hopefully I can create a separate thread for DC w/8spk JBL system, for a proper bypass, optimal loads, speaker housings, maintaining OEM wiring etc. I've got the speaker housings part down, I know how to adapt the OEM wiring in the front doors, likely without cutting anything, I just need to work on the electrical portion of it.

 

Hey Brandon, I defer to shifty on all of the major details. I am truly a noob regarding audio. I currently have an Atoto F7 receiver with a floating 10 inch screen wired to the Metra JBL amp bypass. I have not gotten my Axxess box to connect to the steering wheel controls because the white Metra Axxess connector doesn't properly fit. I bought 2 but they just don't fully seat into the factory connector. Today I am probably going to try connecting my headunit harness SWC+/- wires to the Tundra factory wires with Positaps. It shouldn't take that long. I can let to know how it goes. Maybe then you could return the Axxess box.

I replaced my rear door JBL speakers with Kenwood sport KFC 1666S because they were blown (crackling). I stopped at this point because because everything sounded very decent to me. I haven't opened the front door cards yet to verify that the speakers and wiring are factory JBL, although I think this is likely true. When I place.my ear up to the tweeters and the lower front door speakers, they are functioning and sound good to me.

If I were to order speakers again, I might go with shifty's recommendation of the 3 ohm JBL concert series instead of my 4ohm Kenwoods to maximize output. Otherwise I am pressed with my current set-up

 

So I finally got my headunit SWC working.
I actually got the Metra ASWC harness connected and the Axxess box powered on. I could not figure out how to get the Axxess box programmed to the Atoto headunit. After 45min, I ran out of time and went with plan B by skipping the Axxess box altogether. I had previously read an Amazon review regarding directly wiring SWC for a Lexus GX470. Straight forward and works great. I used Positaps to connect the Green/yellow and the Green/black wires on the Metra ASWC harness to the Brown/black and the Orange/black steering wheel key + wires on the Atoto harness. Took less than 5minutes to program SWC via the headunit. Cheaper and less complicated

 

Check out my prior post. I was able to skip the Axxess box and program SWC directly through my headunit.

 

Axxess box is supposed to auto-program at first startup. Why were you trying to program it?

 

That's what I thought as well. I readily admit I probably was not doing something correctly. I looked up the Axxess box install instructions PDF and videos. The Axxess box LED had different red and green flashes upon powering up the headunit. I waited and then eventually tried turning off and back on and reset but never got the SWC working. After running out of time and needing to put my kids to bed, I switched to plan B.

 

Gotcha.

It’s totally possible the SWC isn’t compatible with (i.e. can’t recognize) ATOTO’s cheap Chinesium hardware? Mainland China products aren’t necessarily known for following industry standards of any sort, much less being cohesive with their builds or I/O. Most of it is assembled as cheaply as possible, engineered to last a couple of years and be thrown away when it dies, if it doesn’t arrive DOA straight out of the box.

But if you feel you did something wrong, or any time you change your head unit, you really should follow the Axxess instructions to factory reset the unit, then allow it to attempt re-learn.

@Dakillacore this is something we may run into on your ATOTO as well, if we go with Axxess. Will hafta see. I have no experience with the Crux unit, not sure if it’s a better option. I’ve only ever used PAC and Axxess for the most part (iDatalink is typically twice as much $$ so I never buy).

 

I will definitely keep the Axxess box in case I get a new headunit or if this current set up doesn't work out for some reason. I didn't mention it right away (added edit while you posting) but I did a few resets of the Axxess box so that didn't work for me either. Thank you for all your assistance Shifty!