2005 DC value?

Saw the other thread with the 2002 access cab and had me thinking? Been toying around the idea of selling my 2005. Thinking of getting a second gen or 2.5 gen. Want the 5.7. Need the towing power.
I have owned this truck for about 7 years. Love this truck. I just need more power for pulling a tractor and trailer, and also a boat. The tundra is for driving out of town. I have a 4Runner that I use as my daily. I have driven this truck to Kansas 3 out of the last 4 years, from Virginia. That is 19 hours 1 way for me. I just drove it to the coast this past weekend.
It is a double cab with 190,6xx miles. Leveling kit, new head unit, camper shell, SCS rims and 4x4.
I just don’t know what to ask for it? Not in a hurry once I try to sell, but don’t know where to start?


Nice dirty pic from Kansas 2 years ago.

 

How’s the frame

 

Great shape. No rust.

 

What trim level?

Does yours have the towing package?

 

Everyone says 'great shape, no rust', but pics tell the story. A blurry photo from 20 feet away leaves too much variance. interior matters. Body condition matters. Frame pics matter. Service history matters. Timing belt, LBJ's, radiator and so on matter a ton more than a leveling kit. A camper shell really doesn't move the needle.

Reason I am saying this is that these things affect the price by several thousand dollars.

 

It is an SR5 model. Was looking for a limited but settled on this 1 for the miles it had. It has the hitch but no brake box on it.
Hadn’t posted pics “because “ I’m not selling it right now. Frame is rust free. Perfect. Timing belt done at 9x,xxx? Radiator replacement hasn’t been done since I’ve had it? Lower ball joints are still originals, I presume. I keep the oil changed and use synthetic.
Just trying to get a ballpark figure on value “when “ I decide to sell.

 

When I sell a vehicle, I ask myself "If I was buying this, what are the things that I would negotiate with?" If I was looking into buying your truck, I'd probably offer at least $2-3k less than whatever you were asking for it. The ball joints are original, they absolutely need to be replaced with new OEM ones. The timing belt is overdue, which is another major service and would cost $1k+ at a shop. The radiator might be in good shape, but it's likely that it's due for replacement as well.

Doing those maintenance items will absolutely increase the value of your truck and will likely make your selling experience a lot nicer too. Unfortunately, things like head units and wheels don't affect value much.

 

Appreciate the replies. If I sell, I would probably sell as is. Let new owner do maintenance. Take off of asking price. Just when I look at marketplace, the prices are all over the place.

 

Variable price for variable reasons. Maintenance, wear and tear, paint and frame condition, body damages, title problems, it's all over the map for a reason.

Can't valuate reasonably without ample pics to show undercarriage, cab interior, bed interior, engine bay and a few body shots to show it's straight, at least. At least, not within reason. I used "pissing in the wind" in another thread recently where too-little-to-go-on was a clear problem. This is another case, where I'd genuinely love to offer up my 2¢, but I just can't do it in good faith knowing how little info a single 1024x480 side-shot picture from 20-25ft away lends to the conversation.

 

KBB private party with your year, mileage, and trim and "good" condition (50% of vehicles) will be in a range of $5,500-$8000.
Cap, "off road tires" etc won't yield any more value. And honestly neither will dropping $3-5k on getting those maintenance items done.
Gen 1's are a different animal as most guys buying them want a solid truck (frame, body, etc) and can do their own maintenance wrenching for the most part. They will know to ask about the major maintenance items and will knock down their offer based on what maintenance items are outstanding. But a clean Gen 1 is a good jewel for those in the know, so there is some "enthusiast inflation" that comes with that territory.

I'd list at $10k (capitalizing on enthusiast inflation), and if someone offers you $7,500 after looking and inquiring about the aforementioned maintenance items, try not go from 6 to midnight instantly, and hand them the keys.

 

In SoCal if the frame is truly rust free (Midwest and east coast people call surface rust frames rust free) but if it actually doesn’t have any rust including any surface rust it would sell here realistically for around 15k

 

KBB doesn't understand the market potential for these. If yours is truly rust free and in good condition and under 200k miles with the typical enthusiast mods, wheels, tires, mild suspension, topper etc., then I would expect $12k+

 

I agree with you on most of that, but disagree that doing those maintenance items won't help him get more for it (or won't get him back the money those items will cost him).

While he might find a sucker that is willing to offer full asking despite those critical maintenance items being overdue, most "enthusiasts" who are willing to pay top dollar for a truly rust-free, <200k mile 1st Gen Dbl Cab 4x4, are savvy enough to negotiate $2500+ off based upon the neglected maintenance.

If OP gets those items taken care of prior to sale, then he can hold firm and have the leverage to get a full asking of $12k+ (and if OP is handy enough, he can do the LBJs, timing belt and radiator all himself for around ~$1k in parts costs).

 

overdue timing belt is the biggest negative. Lower ball joints never being done also speaks. And it says something when critical maintenance items are neglected.

 

Northwest they are going for about 10 to 12k private and they don't last long. Dealers however are criminally priced, 17 to 20k plus.

 

I was thinking of him having Toyota do the items - meaning he won't get what it will cost him back. If that makes sense.
If he does them himself, only the most discerning "enthusiast" will be able to tell how well they were done, otherwise I'd be a little leery of driveway maintenance when you dont know the person doing the work (not to imply that driveway maintenance can't be top shelf work).

I've had the conversation with several vehicle sales. "Do you want *me* to do the work? and have that variable be unknown? Will you pay an extra $5000 on the asking price to cover the dealership doing the work (or some other reputable shop), etc?"

It's definitely a catch 22 hoping you find the *perfect* buyer in either of those scenarios

 

I personally don't know a dealership I would trust to work on my truck.

 

It was just an example of the *opposite* of the driveway.

I'm pretty lucky. My dealership service is pretty great.

 

FTFY

 

I’ll try and get some pics this weekend. Just busy with work. Just on the fence of selling. If I were to keep it, I would do the maintenance on it. Just really thinking of the 5.7 now.

 

You want to tow tractor/trailer setup - what kind of weight/size are you talking about?

You have a hitch but no "box" which probably means you don't have the wiring adapter or perhaps brake controller. Guessing that means you haven't tried to haul tractor/trailer setup with the Tundy? I'd recommend digging in a little at some of the specs and folks' experience pulling and you might find that it's adequate for those few trips per year you do.

It sounds to me like you haven't done much in terms of service/maintenance to the truck (leveling kit and rims don't count). 190k isn't much and in my experience towing with my 05; I wouldn't hesitate to use it as tow mule up to about 5500-6k or so for those occasions you need to haul. VA-KS = relatively flat as well. You could set your tundra up with some major maintenance lovin, get a brake controller and put her to work and keep it....

 

I was on the fence about selling my other car (Fiat 124 Spider) for a Porsche Boxster recently. I thought about it for weeks, going back and forth. What ended up helping me decide was a spreadsheet with every single pro and con for both vehicles. I also added up all the ownership costs, including gas and insurance. Once I did this it was obvious that selling my car and buying another would not have been a good move, which I hadn't realized until I had put all the factors together.

I'd recommend doing the same with your first gen and a 2nd gen truck. I've done it every time I've purchased a vehicle and it's been super helpful.

 

I'd be interested in seeing that Spider vs. Boxster spreadsheet

 

Some pics that people have asked for?

 

Nice truck
Without the maintenance done i would say $8k and maybe $10k to an enthusiast
If the maintenance was done i would say $10-12k all day no problem
If the maintenance was done and it had leather, $12k all day no problem
If the maintenance was done and it was a Limited with nice interior you could likely get $15k from a real enthusiast especially on the left coast. The way you have it set up, wheels and all, is southern cali gold mine and folks would fight to get their hands on it.