Valve cover gaskets, intake gasket, cam seals etc

I'm trying to develop a plan of attack for upcoming projects over the next year and further down the road that potentially involve valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gasket, cam seals, oil pump, oil pan gaskets, and possibly the starter

I've read where some suggest to go ahead and replace the intake manifold gasket while you're doing the valve cover gaskets. And then within that thread, other suggested to go ahead and replace the starter since I would have the intake manifold off

With my limited knowledge of my tundra top end at the moment, I believe if you're replacing the cam seals on a VVTI you also have to take the valve covers off and remove the cams

if I do go ahead and replace the valve cover gaskets and intake manifold now, i'm assuming I'll have to redo the valve cover gaskets whenever I do the cam seals - correct?

I saw no signs of seepage with the cam seals when I did the timing belt this past summer. It would really be nice if I could delay replacing them when I do my next timing belt until the following timing belt change because on my next timing belt change I plan to replace the oil pump. Doing all of this at one time would be a major multi-part time-consuming project that would have me down for a while so I'd rather split it up. I'm not quick. I just plod along.

On a 19-year-old truck with 320,000 miles should I consider replacing the starter while replacing the intake manifold gasket even though it seems fine? Is that something I could just replace the brushes and essentially do a rebuild?


Since I've not yet touched the top end it's hard for me to gauge the best order of attack


as it stands right now this is my plan:

1. First project this spring or summer: replace valve cover gaskets, intake manifold gasket, spark plugs, any damaged coil packs, possibly the starter. Likely remove secondary air pump since it is by-passed and no longer used after installing the LT headers
2. Second project in about 60 to 80,000 miles (in roughly 3 years): replace timing belt, crank seal, oil pump (due to damaged threads for the tb tensioner bracket - repaired now with big SERT kit) and oil pan gaskets.

I'm probably answering my own question but if I can hold off doing the cam seals at my next timing belt change until the subsequent TB change, then I won't be replacing them for another 160 or 180,000 miles which would probably be a good time to do the valve cover gaskets again anyway





Any thoughts or suggestions as appreciated, particularly about the starter

 

I wouldn’t do cam seals, unless leaking, ever. The starter should be good, unless you’ve had issue. I wouldn’t replace my starter, I’d have it refurbished my a 12v motor specialist, here in Tucson we have “Luna” they rebuild starters and alts, keep it og Toyota. I have only worked on the 5fevz, so I’m not fluent on the v8s. As far as main seals, I’d only replace what leaks. Hope this helps

 

What he said ^^ on starter, just give it the @KNABORES treatment! Or, actually, better yet, maybe just replace proactively while Denso is still making the part. Hell, why not? Clean up any grounds you see in there. Wrap your wires under there with rodent tape.

If cam seals aren't leaking, I wouldn't touch. Unless you really feel motivated to get in there. If you had the '00-04 where it's relatively easy, I'd say "Go for it, while you're in there!" but ... nah.

$21 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 shored up the small driver side cam seal leak I had going on.

Yes, if pulling valve covers anyway, cleaning up things in there, and re-FIPG of the corners and half moons is worthwhile. You could try buttoning things back up and hope for no leaks, but it doesn't take much more time to just clean and re-do everything. Don't let any little bits of old FIPG or other crud fall into the head. Take a once-over before reinstalling the cover to pick any little bits out.

Intake gaskets if manifold is off: That's more of a non-VVTi thing, the gaskets are different. Our VVTI ('05-06) intakes use a molded rubber gasket. Not saying it's not necessary, that rubber is aged, so why not? But that recommendation to swap the intake gaskets, whenever I've recommended, is for the earlier trucks with silver intake manifold. And I'd only replace the manifold-to-head gaskets, not the gasket that sits in between the two halves of the intake manifold.

Coil packs ... Before you do anything, understand cracks on the outside plastic likely don't mean shit about health and here's why.

I wonder if removing the SAI pump will actually cause an error to throw, if the ECU recognizes the circuit is open? Just a thought. I can't say for sure. But if removing that, I almost feel like "why not just go the distance", remove the solenoids above the valve cover, remove the valves off the back of the manifold/heads, install some blockoff plates where the valves bolt on ... ?

 

I replaced mine recently with an OEM reman due to exactly what @shifty` said, parts availability. I have replaced the contacts and plunger before on my OEM one and kept it to rebuild as a backup, but many of our parts are getting DC'd so I wanted to have another Denso one. Probably need to order another alternator also, even though my OEM has not failed me yet.

 

It would be neat to have a list of parts that have potential to get discontinued that might be worthwhile having backups for. I don't want to induce panic buying, but for example, we can't get OEM CV axles anymore.

 

Someone started a similar thread, but ultimately it's really tough to say.

We've just noticed a decline in availability of, for example, Denso fuel pump for earlier models, alternators for all models, various trim parts many of which are only coming in beige, rear drum adjusters on earlier years, there's no real rhyme or reason I can understand from the discontinuations.

 

I was agonizing over some of the schematics, trying to order some parts and saw that Toyota offers a remanufactured starter with an $80 core charge. I was curious if anyone had tried it so I didn't recall in your build thread which option you chose but sounds like you did the reman so that is probably what I will do

I may do the same with the alternator as well


Both times I'll just pay the core charge and keep my original

 

I did not send a core in, so not sure

 

Great info as always.

I'd ordered one of the Hewitt bypass kits last year but I think it is the most simple one with just two block off plates. I would rather eliminate some of the extraneous parts if they're not needed

I was curious about removing that SAIS pump as well. I know the ECU programming keeps it from throwing a code as it is now with the LT headers, but I'm gonna talk to the seller of that ECU to be sure removing the pump won't cause problems. And I was hoping to read up and research on that whole system I wasn't aware of the solenoids you mentioned, but I knew there was more to it I would like to remove anything unneeded with the SAIS system

yeah I'm definitely gonna do a thorough cleaning with new gaskets and FIPG the half moons


I agree about those cam seals. I'm just gonna let those go. There was no signs of leaking when I did the TB last summer. I know they are a pain in the ass since you have to remove the cams so I will put that off and do it only when it is absolutely necessary. Most everything else I'm trying to be proactive and do preventative maintenance

 

Just an fyi, if your starter works, leave it alone. I’ve seen a few issues with Denso remans not lasting lately.

Now if you want to buy and hoard a spare, I can’t argue with that.

It would be interesting to see if the Denso remans sold as Toyota parts get better or extra treatment vs aftermarket Denso rebuilt parts (starters and alternators).

 

Mine was a Toyota branded Denso reman. I popped it open to inspect. All shiny and new inside. So far it's been rock solid.

 

I think thats the ticket. The failures that I have seen were Denso boxed, not Toyota. Toyota is specifiying better grade of rebuild.

 

What did you pay for yours? I guess I'll call the dealership because I can't tell the difference in these three

 

50090 is the 1.4kW starter.

50100 and 50101 are both 2.0kW starters.

50101 shows as the correct part for 2006. This is the one I would purchase. Your truck may have the 1.4kW starter if the dealer checks by VIN number, but there is no real downside to installing the stronger starter.

My guess is the starter part number changed for some reason for the 2005 and 2006 4.7 V8 engines.

On the Denso 2.0kW reman, it crosses to both 50100 and 50101. There is probably very little difference between the 2.0kW starters.

 

Big help, thanks

odd that the least powerful is the most expensive

 

IIRC, I think about $180 for the 1.4kw version.

 

Mine was a 50070. $163 before discount

 

Also of note on that list. I only ordered one upper ball joint and one tie rod end. Duh. Then the steering rack bushing is actually one of the large internal metal piston looking things with seals on it, not the rack mount bushings I was trying to order. Toyota parts ordering be hard yall

 

I was thinking when you posted that that was a great price for what all you got didn't notice the quantities

I need to get up an order while the 25% discount is going on. Intake gaskets, I assume OEM for valve cover gaskets, probably the rebuilt starter and alternator, probably an oil pump even though that's down the road, and I'm sure a few other things I'm forgetting

 

I've honestly not heard, or can't remember ever hearing anyone having to replace the oil pump in the 2UZ.

 

I have the stripped and repaired bolt hole for the timing belt tensioner bracket which just happens to mount into the oil pump. I'm going to do it at my next timing belt change Otherwise, I'm like you, I've never heard of any issue

 

Perhaps Serra's entry is incorrect. Ourisman Toyota is another online to check out, who was McGeorge Toyota at one time. They still have good online service via email and competitive in price.

 

Thanks I've bought from McGeorge/Ourisman Toyota before. Those are better prices even with Serra's 25% sale


I must be going to the wrong place. I know I've looked up parts on their site before. When I go there, it wants you to submit your name and contact info and request pricing