Alignment Help please post 3.5” Lift

2019 Limited Crewmax
Brand new:
35” Nexen ATX Tires
Rough Country 3.5” Coil overs
Rough Country 4-8” Rear shocks
Rear 3” Block Lift
Differential Drop kit
Extended Sway Bar Link Set
New MOOG R/O Tie Rod End

This is my 2nd alignment in same amount of days.
The steering wheel is barely off to right a fraction (much better than yesterday), seems to drive pretty straight (maybe a smidge pull to left, but maybe that’s the road crown.)

Tech says the steering wheel can be straightened with a little toe adjustment. Also said getting it to Toyota specs wasn’t working (duh), so basically with some measurements he says he got it close. BTW, that’s a brand new MOOG Right Tie Rod End that they installed before the alignment.

How do these final numbers look to someone much smarter than me?

Thanks y’all!

Darren

 

Avoid Rough Country kits. They're cheap as hell, and too many people have come here with damage or issues from the kits, which is unfortunate when you can pay a little bit more for a solid kit. Skip lifting blocks, add-a-leaf is a better option, while a new leaf spring pack is ideal. Rough Country has triggered threads by people who had issues with and/or damaged their truck using that brand. It's not worth the percentage in savings, considering you'll pay more than that on consequences.

 

Avoid Moog while you’re at it. Quality and aftermarket parts don’t seem to go together anymore. Find OEM, which is Toyota brand, or whoever made that part for Toyota originally. There are some quality performance parts, which upgrade the original part in some way, but even the “performance” sector is full of cheap garbage these days too. As evidence by your Rough Country parts.

 

I'm not the smartest, but it doesn't look like they adjusted anything besides toe. Caster is the same as before, camber is barely different and maybe a side effect of changing the toe. The camber is still off on the front right and by a decent amount. To me it looks like they just threw a wrench on the tie rods and that was it.

 

Moog is still ok for the most part; I wouldn't use it for ball joints in Upper or Lower control arms, but U Joints and Tie Rod ends should be fine

You need adjustable upper control arms; or just some that are designed for a 3.5" lift; Tundras ideally need new uppers at 2+ inches of lift if I remember right; that should help pull that camber back in spec

(and get rid of the diff drop while you're at it)

 

Oh man, I know this is posted everywhere on this site and others, but here we go again. You're vehicle may vary some, but these are proven starting points for good wear and handling:

Camber: Between 0.0 and +0.1 (matching both sides)
Caster: As mush as possible without sacrificing camber or causing cross caster pull
Toe: +0.12 (matching both sides) for a total toe of +0.24

I'd be going back and asking for everything to be aligned appropriately.

 

It's probably not the shop. It's probably that garbage suspension. womack is right in that he also needs adjustable uppers.

 

I do have modified UCAs, extended sway bar links, a different drop and I am adding a carrier bearing drop tomorrow.
My tires currently rub the plastic fender guard and the cab mount at near full steering wheel stops.

 

Will do. If they can’t I’ll politely ask for a refund of my 1 Year Alignment and head over to the pro lift and alignment shop.

 

Good luck!

@KNABORES just posted a great video over in the Rock Warrior wheel sale thread. Skip to like 9:50'ish. You may find it interesting

 

Do you have a link? I went searching, but dead ended.
Thanks!

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/trd-rock-warrior-wheels.156855/#post-3891888

 

Great and informative video, the offset on my new Black Rhino Armorys is +6mm.

 

The rubbing thing is kinda irrelevant; that’s just due to tire size/wheel off set etc

what uppers do you have? Did you buy a whole rc lift kit that came with everything you have mentioned?

 

Yes, plus the carrier bearing drop kit.

 

You’re never going to be able to get any resemblance of a decent alignment without adjustable UCA. 3.5” up front is far beyond the range oem uppers can tolerate.

 

Well, I reckon that’s all I got. A non-adjustable, non-oem modified 3.5” UCA to work with.

 

Why don’t you send us the link to the lift kit or uppers, not much we can do with so little info

 

Do you have an actual lift kit? Or did you just slap a 3.5” coilover setup on a stock truck?

 

Here’s the whole shahbang!

 

Hmm I have their old style steel tube uppers and if I remember right my alignment numbers are pretty decent, but I’m only running a 3” lift

what alignment shops have you tried?

from RC’s website the reviews seem to have positive view on their alignment numbers so I would try a different alignment shop; but that’s the hard part, they’re a diamond in the rough

 

Kinda long story. After my lift in the driveway my oem 20” wheels scrubbed extremely bad, too bad to drive 40 minutes away for new wheels/tires and then a alignment. So Tires Plus said, “Nope, we can’t do lifted trucks.”
Next was BIG O Tires, they said bring it in. They did an alignment that had my steering wheel off to 1 o’clock and a pull to the left. No biggie right then cause I needed to get to the tire/wheel shop and knowing that 36” was gonna change the new alignment anyhow. Since the new 18” wheels, I have been back to BIG O twice.” I’ll go back tomorrow armed with new modified-lift settings gleamed from here. If that doesn’t work, I’ll go to our local specialty wheels/tires/lifts/alignment shop.

 

Looks like they did the "toe and go". Most alignment shops don't align anything but the toe. They might try to BS you and claim the cam bolts are seized, which is possible. Did you loosen the cam bolts on the lower control arms when you did the lift?

The numbers arent terrible. Forget all the people saying you need a new lift and tie rods. You just need an alignment tech that isnt lazy, getting rushed by corporate, or knows what numbers would work for you without looking at the stupid screen to see if it's red or green. Rough country may have engineered some alignment into the new arms for the lift. Might be a good thing they arent adjustable. I took my adjustable SPC arms to the local alignment shop and showed him the directions. It was like trying to show rocket science to a dog. Complete waste of time and money. They fucked up my alignment and my tires.

 

Go to your local off road shop that installs lifts and see if they do alignments, or who they use

 

Roger that!

 

I know exactly what you mean. When I was ASE Tech in the 80’s you had to think outta the box, or get stuck doing the grunt work.