Auto trans drain and refill only

I’ve honestly never owned a Toyota long enough to get my own 100,000 miles in it. My 2002 Tacoma has 296,000 miles and still runs perfectly.
so why are the discussions about drain and fill transmission maintenance seldom mentioned, if at all. I’ve been searching and get no replies.
I just bought a 2007, 4x4, 5.7 from original owner. He’s changed engine oil every 5,000 miles with Royal Purple. But was unclear about his auto trans drain and full. Isn’t the Royal Purple Max kind of a cure-all for vehicles approaching 100,000 miles even if they are NOT having any issues?

I can’t hear enough good about Royal Purple but is it worth spending the extra money on it? Is it going to keep my perfectly maintained Tundra properly maintained? I don’t mind spending more money if it’s worth it. If I do a drain and fill now, I should be fine for at least another 50,000 miles with everything maintained. Is Royal purple worth it or will Valvoline or Mobile 1 give me the same protection.

So far a 2007 Double cab with 5.7 mostly used as daily driver. Not a lot I’d heavy towing or off roading. I’m now the 2nd owner with all service records and receipts for upgrades. I just want to try my best to avoid any future or problem concerns that I should address before they ruin something. My old 2002 Taco still rungs great with 296,000 on the speedo. Thanks and I’d appreciate any feedback, good or bad.

 

Nice truck, maintain it to Toyota spec & enjoy it.

 

I have no idea what Royal Purple is, and I have no experience w/it. However, I will tell you that the transmissions in our rigs are very particular about the fluids they prefer. Personally, I wouldn't use anything but Toyota ATF WS in my Tundra transmissions.

Where our transmissions seem to get funky is after the 200k range when they haven't had any transmission services performed. At that point, it is advisible to NOT touch the fluid in the transmission at all (even drain n fills), but in particular it is recommended NOT doing a flush and just ride it out until problems start to occur.

 

I would suggest you use Toyota's WS (World Standard) automatic transmission fluid. If you're a careful buyer you can get it for less than Royal Purple.

I did a drain and fill on my 2017 (bought new from the dealer) at 90,000 miles and will be doing one about every 20,000 - 30,000 miles thereafter. Using Toyota WS. I buy it when its on sale through a dealer.

I have a co-worker who has a 2002 Tacoma, bought new, that is now just about to 600,000 miles and he has NEVER changed the auto transmission fluid. Potato.....Tomato.

 

Looks like I’ll be making a few trips to the Toyota dealer. Everyone has their opinion on maintenance, brands and timelines. And though I probably won’t put another 100,000 miles on thus truck, I still want it maintained properly. Thanks for the info guys, I appreciate it.

 

From my experience, fluid wont go past 25k miles. Learned more from Amsoil's website than most. I've driven all 310k miles on this truck and have just recently started a routine maintenance cycle since it started having issues at about 220k and more priminent at 270k. Assuming fluid has been changed when I took it in for the transmission tail end leaks, multiple times in my case.

After having slipping issues and limp modes, I swapped solenoids and filter and did a full drain and fill with Toyota ATF WS, 11 quarts total over a month period, full disclosure I did have to drop the pan 2 times for solenoids that arrived at different times for different issues. This January after a full year to the date, the same issues came back so I decided to go with other fluids. I meant to go with Amsoil, but at the time I couldn't remember and I couldn't find the thread so I went with Royal Purple Max ATF. I've done 2 drain and fills so far and probably cooked my first 4 quarts after a long trip.

Honestly it takes about 150 to 200 miles to feel the full effect of the change, but the transmission has worked better within that timeframe than before. I'm more cautious or more like self-conscience to causing it to trip up or slip in that time frame, but after that period I've been driving it like I stole it with no issues. Summer time I'll probably do another drain and fill to keep fluid "fresh". I think eitherway you go is good as long as you keep a 20-25k interval you should be good.

 

I think you’ve got me sold

 

There also AISIN 0WS and Idemitsu TLS LV both WS fluids full synthetic. All others are DEX VI based and work well in the ab60. You have a wide range of viscosity to pick from.

 

admittedly, i don't know much at all about transmissions. i had to have my rear main seal replaced a couple years ago, would that have required my mechanic to drain and fill the fluid?

 

Bad advise. No friction additives left in ATF means it will be eating itself inside out.

 

Not a direct response to your post, just quoting bc Aisin fluid seems rarely mentioned....
Aisin makes the transmission so I assume they're fluid will work just as well as Toyota WS and heck, may even be the same. And at $7.35/quart beats the snot out of WS at the dealer. Anyone else agree? or disagree with logical based data?

(I know Idemitsu makes Subarus CVT fluid and just used it for a drain & fill on my parents' 2020 Forester)

 

I used Ravenol T-WS at last drain&fill. Transmission seems to be a little bit happier, previously it had a harsh 1-2 clunk when cold.

Decided to switch to Ravenol ATF after switching front/rear differential fluids and transfer case as well. I've had bad problems with going out of 4LO in winter, had to roll back and forth for a few minutes trying to get out of gear. Not a problem with Ravenol.

 

No

 

I disagree that saving a few $ every few years makes economical sense.

 

The ab60 has ran with a wide range of fluids over the years. From Toyots WS, Dex3, Dex6(maxlife) Aisin, idemitsu T-iv, TLSLV and Amsoil etc. Some Transmissions respond with either a confused shift or a harsh shift while some run just fine depending on the internals. I recently tried out DEX3 but had a confused shift while it was cold and a harsh 5-6 shift drained and filled with AISIN 0WS and it runs just fine. Went with it since its a full synthetic and has a good additive pack.

 

In concept yes...

However, we can find several posts and recommendations from some of the 'Toyota experts' (including car care nut)... that once you've exceeded 200k w/o ANY service you should seriously consider weighing your options on whether or not to drain n fill or just leave it alone, essentially citing that even a drain and fill could take a transmission that is offering minor issues/symptoms and push it into a catastrophic failure.... That is addressed in this particular video starting at 05:06

https://youtu.be/jJr30r6RRgw?t=313

But, a difference of opinion and various recommendations is why we are all here, right????

 

As a seasoned supermegaprofessional who opened 3 transmissions and even rebuilt one (in a second attempt - first one failed miserably =) I can guarantee that in any semi-modern transmission that jerks torque converter lock on and off all the time, drain&fill is always beneficial. When friction modifiers are gone in ATF, frictions start to wear like hell, which takes valve body out in no matter of time. Even with drain&fill performed annually I see a visible difference of worn clutches trapped in external magnetic filter (that I replace at the same time and cut for inspection) between using just ATF and same ATF plus some extra friction modifier.

CCN's "do not replace old ATF" wisdom perhaps comes from the pure mechanically controlled automatic transmissions era, way back in time. In 2000s you either replace ATF regularly or put aside cash for premature repair/replacement.

 

Asin WS fluid is nearly identical to the Toyota spec WS. I’ve run it for the last few years (a couple of drain and fills) without issue. As far as price point, it’s sold at major retailers like Rock Auto instead of sporting the Toyota seal and sold at dealers only for a significant markup, so pricing is much less for essentially the same part. Similar, I suspect, to buying a Toyota belt and tensioner from Toyota or getting the Dayco parts from a parts house - they both have the same Dayco part number on it, you just paid more from Toyota. I realize not all parts are that way, but these ones appear to be.

I’m 100% in the same boat as you regarding changing the fluid. 200k and no service history - drain and fill! Flush - no, drain and fill - yes. But get some fresh fluid in that transmission and it will be happier.

I see zero validity to a transmission lasting longer with old, crud-filled, worn out fluid than with fresh, clean, full ad pack fluid. If there’s enough garbage and friction material in the fluid that the it is relied upon to ‘keep the transmission shifting’, and the concern is that changing out that fluid will rob the transmission of its needed friction, that transmission will eat itself in short order. You would basically be circulating a sandpaper slurry that would erode valve body and other soft parts.

I understand the CCN makes a recommendation not to change it, but it’s a horrible recommendation. The only reason I can see for that recommendation is CYA - he doesn’t want to be the last guy that touched a poorly maintained transmission when it grenades down the road and have the customer erroneously blame the service for the failure instead of abuse and neglect.

 

Exactly.