What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I really appreciate the confirmation. I ran down the same 11909 number (seems the connectors mostly start 90980), but I wasn’t sure about the scAmazon part. Super weird Toyota doesn’t sell the male end! I think I’m going to depin another connector I have to repurpose wires. You’re awesome @BubbaW, thanks for the sanity check!

 

“The 10”

 

I-10.

I just thought of something. So what constitutes on/offroad time? It can't be a direct hour/hour correlation. They say that 1 idle hour = 30 miles, so maybe like a day offroad equals X amount of time on road. I drive my truck roughly 24 times a year, but will do about 20 days offroad. I'd say I'm about 50/50, if not more once I get Donut running right.

 

Yeah, I'm on 650lb springs and E tires. I don't really notice it.

 

ADD ramblings. I sometimes get off on a weird tanget.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/crackhead-resurrection.94083/page-78#post-3888521

 

The majority of the 1st Gens do but they slip in a few that are different. They're all contained in each years respective EWD.

What I have found is Toyota does not have the male end on the actual hardware items....radio, window motor, A/C blower motor and many more.

I also attached Toyotas 05 Wire Harness Repair Manual (RM1022E) that covers our Best Gens. With the female connector part #, one can find the corresponding male connector and pin part # used....if one exists.

 

Sale is on!!

https://www.tundras.com/threads/25-off-toyota-parts.156889/

 

Who are “they”? The auto insurance company? Sounds like a lot of malarkey.

 

Saving that one.

This is the one I was going by but yours is waaaaay better for trying to translate EWD to reality (more connector styles I see here in the 4 pics supplied). I was having a hell of a time finding that info in the EWD, apparently it's not in there, maybe it's in the FSM?

EDIT: Future visitors looking for the speed sensor / reverse trigger wiring for our 1st gens, the grey plug in the dash, Yazaki makes the core terminal and the part numbers are 7282-5830 for the male plug you need, or if you need to replace the existing plug, it's Yazaki 7283-5830. But the Amazon plug setup, while it takes a while to ship, looks like the best option for retrofit.

​

 

The LE agencys.

 

Got a quick response from @daveeasa and fixed the issue. (It was human error.)

 

As expected. Dave is not human, so it serves to logic that the issue would be your fault.

 

I’ve always thought vehicles should have an hour meter and an odometer…

 

GM trucks have them since 1999. Good way to keep up with usage and maintenance.

 

Exactly, there can be such a huge difference between hours and miles.

 

Installed 18-in electric cooling fan from a '96 Thunderbird two speed.. installed AC fan pulled one from a 2003 Toyota Sequoia.. added push to start with security system..

 

What’s the fan for?

 

The smaller fan in the front is to cool down the AC condenser when the AC is on.

 

Now you just need to get that shitty K&N hot-air intake outta there, and the thing will probably run cool as a top. The K&N kits for other vehicles may be good, but the ones for our Tundras are absolute hot fucking garbage.

The OEM box pulls cold air from the fender well. You kill that when you install this kit. And the oiled filters gum up your throttle body and MAF with residue in no time.

 

gotcha. It’s a pusher I’m guessing. Let us know how that works out

 

Yeah a pusher I took it off at 2003 Sequoia I'm hoping it will help this AC in this hot weather.
Definitely will post how it works.

 

So wait, you eliminated the clutch fan and replaced with the Lincoln fan, then put a pusher on the front. Interesting. Do you tow?

 

You loose a lot of cfm if the fan shroud isn’t directly on the condenser, I got the sequoia fan and I couldn’t get it to sit tight on the surface so I ditched that project

 

I thought you did the 'ol classic zip-strip-thru-the-fins method to secure it to the radiator? That's how we did it on all our old GM classic steel cars and trucks BITD.

 

I did, but sooner or later the zips failed due to the heat I live in. Then I got the tree fan but it didn’t sit like it should so I just ditched the aux fan idea all together

 

I'd probably want to build a front shroud, or drop-brackets to hold it to the radiator. But I'd also be worried about damage to the fins when you hit bumps and whatnot, regardless whether doing one of those two, or zip-strips.

That was the major drawback to e-fans back then, using the zip-strips. If you hit a stout enough bump, the weight of the fan could rip the strips right thru, and damage the radiator. And the bad part about forward shrouds is, you're blocking off natural airflow while at highway speeds.

Someone on here made a good point about e-fans and why they're more harm than good on our trucks. Something about how the stock fan pulls 5-10x as many CFM as most reasonably-priced e-fans on the market, so you'd need to double up the fans to get anywhere near half the CFM of the current fan, and the power gains you'll see from deleting the mechanical fan + clutch are likely not worth the cooling benefit (or loss) in reality.

 

The motor can spin the clutch fan with as much as 315lb/ft of torque. A more aggressive blade pitch can be used and net high CFM. Electric fans have less powerful motors and less aggressive blade pitch. Trucks need more cooling when doing work than most cars ever will. Clutch fan for the win.