Addressing surface rust and undercoating

I’m in Pa and my tundra was done with fluid film when I bought it new. My 4runner before that was done with it. But I plan on having this other stuff done the in the northeast. I think it’s called NHOU oil. I have to double check the place on Facebook. They will come to your house to do it also.

 

Just did a layer of VHT on the tube step brackets. Dumb me didn’t take a before pic. But you can imagine if I’m looking to spray rust converter then paint then fluid fill.
Gonna see how it does before I take it to a lift to clean everything up and spray

 

How hard was it to remove the bumper. Do you have a link to how to remove it.

 

Watched a couple of youtube videos, they are easy to find. I broke half of the clips in the first removal attempt and the rest when I backed into a street light concrete podium and had to remove the plastic for the sledge hammer and crowbar fix up. Once the plastic is off, it is pretty obvious what you need to do in order to remove the metal part of the bumper. Expect lower bolts to rust to death and snap. In my case two of them broke, I had to heat the remnants up with a torch and cool quickly with PB Blaster so they could be turned with a wise grip.

New plastic is $150, btw: https://www.extremeterrain.com/tundra-rear-bumper-step-pad-center-8127-350pd-0.html I will be installing an all-metal offroad bumper as I damage the stock one in my every trip to wilderness.

 

I've used the Corroseal that was by far better than other rust converters. I used a basic spray bottle with a trigger and a little throw away brush. Then spray paint with Rustoum top enamel coat and you are done. 10x better than just rustomum primer. I also tried a spray can of other highly rated rust converter primer that wasn't even close Carrosel.

 

The wool wax hard is the good choice in my case. My tundra lived in Idoho for the 1st four years until reaching 36K miles then we moved to Socal. It has some minor surface rust but nothing major. Now I wanted to treat it and be done with it because there's no more harsh weather hitting under. Obviously I do not need the rust -belt, mid west type undercoatings every few years. I just need to clean it up, seal it off, paint it nice and move on. From time to time the truck will go on a ski trip this and that but that's just normal usage.

 

I live in SoCal in the inland empire and I still fluid film/woolwax my rigs because caltrans sprays salt and brine here in SoCal (my neighbor is a superintended at caltrans and verified to me that they do) I also camp quite a bit all over Utah Colorado Montana etc and surf a lot and have seen quite a few San Diego and Huntington Beach trucks original owners that lived their whole lives by the beach with heavy flaking rust just by being so close to the ocean

 

You probably refer to Big bear / Lake Arrowhead areas when you say IE? High elevation zones and coast lines I could see the point, snows and salty air. The rest, high, low desert etc, not so much. After examining the bottom of the truck, my plan is to use a hybrid method: FF or Surface Shield (which is almost the same as FF, recommended by that undercoasting guru Youtuber "Repair Geek"as "better" than FF in terms of adhesion), on areas that are hard to paint over, misc holes, nooks and crannies; then I will paint over the flat, easy to acess surfaces. My truck will be exposed to some harsh road conditions through a handful of ski trips but definitely not as bad as her previous 4 years in ID.

 

woolwax sticks the best I’ve used them all you have to take a pressure washer and blast it on high to get woolwax off

I heard the fluid film in the can sticks much better but ironically we can only get the aerosol cans here in commiefornia