2003 AC 2wd LSD Rear Axle Leaking Question

Hey everyone. Got the truck back from the shop and it is running and stopping beautifully now. Was able to drive home on the interstate with no issues.

But now I have to tackle the leaking rear axle issue. I thought it was the rusted diff cover like most have had on here. But now that it is full and I've been driving it, the cover looks fairly dry except very bottom and all of the oil is all over the front carrier housing. The pictures show what I mean. As far as I know, the carrier was not removed from the axle during the frame replacement.

What do you guys think? I put arrows where I physically saw drips coming off the carrier.

 

That may be all from the pinion seal, it appears to be running down the carrier to the bottom of the differential

 

I would be surprised if that diff wasn't leaking. More than likely the pinion seal due to the spread of the fluid. Looks to be a pretty significant leak.

 

Yes, it was dripping from the top arrow. It also has oil thrown up above, bottom of bed and such from the drive home. I'll get them to check that out next and get that fixed.

 

I'd also say pinion seal. I know you just got the truck and are working on fixing it up but I'd get that axle cleaned up and painted ASAP before it rusts out too much. Make sure your axle breather is in good shape or just go ahead and replace anyway.

 

I need to check and see if they replaced the breather during this service. I wrote it on the list but it was an addon since I forgot to put it on the first time. So, they may have missed it. Was busy the last couple days after bringing it home to go double check.

 

Got a good picture of the breather tonight. That looks like the original one. I ordered a new one and it will be here on Wed.

As for the pinion gasket, any brand that is okay to get? I glanced at Rock auto and didn't recognize any brands there and the local dealership looked it up and said it was on backorder right now.

 

Use only the OEM pinion seal unless you'd like to do it again in a few years.

Toyota 90311-44007

Ourisman has stock, but you can search around and find plenty of other options.

https://toyotaparts.ourismantoyotao...yota-differential-pinion-seal-rear-9031144007

 

Thank you. I will get it ordered tonight.

 

All parts are ordered, both original breather and the parts to do the remote hookup depending on how it goes along with the new gasket.

How difficult is it to change out the seal with it being that rusted? I'm hoping the at least removed the drive shaft when they did the frame replacement so it won't be so bad.

 

I've done a pinion seal on my Tacoma once. It should be a 30mm nut but it will be a "staked" nut (look up a pic of one if you haven't heard of it) and you'll have to have/make a tool to unstake it. I modified a chisel tool to do mine, I don't have a pic of it at the moment though.

I had a hell of a time getting the driveshaft flange to come off the 3rd member flange. The bolts came right out but they had been in contact so long they didn't want to separate. I hope for your sake they did remove it for the frame.

My Tacoma was a 95 but I think the axles are the same or at least very similar so your situation may vary.

 

Did it spin easily?

 

It was frozen in place until I got the socket on it. Got the new one installed. The leak is diminished quite a bit but still leaking out the pinion seal. So that will be the next thing to do after the seal gets delivered tomorrow.

 

This video (I'm sure there are others) covers the process nicely. The important takeaway is to mark the pinion nut and put it back exactly where it was so you don't affect the preload...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v_Q7xM5n_80&ab_channel=FunjunkieGarage

 

I did watch that video, lol. I am probably going to take it back to the same shop that did the timing belt and have them change this out for me as well. My wife is retiring from the Air Force this summer and we are now in home shopping mode, so not a lot of free time to work on the truck myself except on jobs that only take an hour or so. Plus, I have to check the code from the check engine light that popped on during my test drive last night with my ODB when I get home from work tonight. Plus, we are expecting rain again this weekend.

 

That works too! There have been times in my life where I've had more money than time, and other times when I've had more time than money. I'm in that latter state lately, so I do almost all my own work. There's a collateral benefit as well...quality control. At least I'll know it's right. Good luck at your shop!

 

I totally agree. Where we live currently on base we have to be careful of spilling oil and such on the concrete. So there is that factor as well. We will be leaving this summer.

On another note, seal got delayed a day so it won't be here until tomorrow.

And checked the codes and it is a P0430 Bank 2 code. So it looks like I will be looking into some new O2 sensors.

 

Thank her for her service.
As for home shopping...."Yes Dear" works wonders

 

Thank you sir, I will tell her.

We've been looking since last year but took 4 months off from it over winter. Can't wait to finally settle down and not have to move for awhile and setup my garage the way I want to.

 

Current update on the axle leak. I got the new pinion seal put on April 3rd. That solved the worst oil leak so I was able to drive it on short trips. They were nice enough to clean up the cover a bit and put chalk marks where they observed oil weeping out of the cover. Some look like they are straight on the weld, some are up higher on the cover

This weekend I bought the Pore 15 kit to see if I could get the rest of the leaks in the cover taken care of. Well, that didn't go as planned. Used a wire wheel on my drill to get all of the loose rust out of the way so I could get it cleaned up. Now, the cover is leaking very fast. Before the wire brushing, after driving it at 55 mph for about 20 minutes, I would get about an inch and a half oil spot with it sitting for several days after. Now, I have an oil spot about 5" in diameter and running all the way to the tire (parked on a slight hill) since parking it back in its spot yesterday with just driving it about 50'.

I am going to try and wipe away the rusty fluid on the side that is leaking when I get home and take some better pictures of that side. Trying to decide if I want to try the Pore 15 option, weld on a new cover option, which I have a coworker that is a welder to do the work. Or just go about replacing the housing/whole axle and be done with it. Pictures to follow.

 

Honestly, to save yourself future headaches I think the best plan would be to replace the entire housing, one and done.
I know that’s not an inexpensive fix, but it should be the last time you have to deal with it.

 

Here is the pictures of the axle.










This is what leaked out since yesterday afternoon just sitting there now.

 

This is probably what I will end up doing. I've been checking Ebay and FB Marketplace for either a housing (ideal) or a complete axle. I have a LS and ABS right now and would like to keep that if I can.

 

And replace/overhaul the entire parking break assembly and adjusters while you’re in there…

I wonder if your LSPV is even functional. That axle housing is fucked.

 

Which would be the better option, getting an ABS housing for $250-$400 shipped on Ebay or getting an entire axle for $550 that is a couple hours away and I'll have to enlist a friend for help to go get it as this truck will not make the trek yet with this leak?

I know the dealership changed all of the rear brake lines during the frame replacement. Where is the LSPV located up there for me to check?

 

The one you can lay eyes on

 

Yup.

 

This is the one that the guy quoted me $650 with a 30 day warranty. It looks like it has ABS but there is no tag on the back. Donor truck had 135k miles on it which is only 8k more than mine.

 

You could get the entire piece and take it and have the ring and pinion inspected, will cost a little more but it’ll save you headaches down the road.

 

That looks hella better. Potentially non-LSD. Any clue on the gearing, or what the donor vehicle is? Cab type matters with regard to axle width.

meanwhile. LSPV … follow the armature attached to the passenger side of the rear diff, trace the round bent up bar up to the drivers frame rail. That’s your LSPV. It needs to be bled any time you bleed your brakes. Air likes to get trapped in it and fuck ip your braking experience.