TRD lift with 33-34inch tires?

With the alledged 2.5-3" lift from the TRD kit, do ya'll think a 33.5 or 34" tire will look weird/too small? I'm ready to purchase the TRD kit but I have concerns about my truck fitting in the garage. Another member on here who has the TRD lift has 34.6" tires (285/65/20) says his truck is about 82 inches tall at the sharkfin antenna. My garage door opening is a hair under 83 inches. Granted, I won't be putting a 34.6 inch tire. I'm either going with 275/65/20 (34.1 inches) or 285/60/20 (33.5 inches). So I'm thinking I'll be good and the truck will still fit in my garage. Just don't want it to look weird. My stock tires are 265/60/20 which I believe are 32.5 inches tall and right now, I only have five inches of space between the garage door opening and the top of my antenna.

 

I have Toyo AT3 285/65/20s on my truck and the lift is being installed as I type this. I will let u know if it fits through my (equally low) garage door opening this Sat when I pick it up. So hoping!

 

I measured my truck at the shark fin at 77” with 2” front and 3/4” rear lift on 33” tires.

 

You

this is my truck with 285/70/17's with the TRD lift. I have the tires from my other truck so I kept that size. I like the look of 35's but I'm fine with this setup. Slightly less loss off the line too. Hope this helps in your decision making process. I don't park in the garage so height wasn't really a factor for me.

 

How do you find the ride? Articulation?

 

the ride is firm when cornering switchbacks in the mountains. That is exactly what I wanted. Can't really speak to articulation much but the tide is improved greatly.

 

Not a TRD lift, but I did a 2" (verified) front suspension lift with a 1" rear space and run 275 70 18's.

 

Remember that every inch of tire height is only going to actually raise the truck 1/2in in overall height. So if you have 32.5in tires now and you put 34.5in tires on it, you are only going to raise the overall height of the truck by 1in…

 

My garage is 82" exactly. No room to spare. Will I have issues with 3" TRD lift and 285/65/20 tires?

 

Depends on the actual diameter of the tires you chose. It will be close.

 

I didn’t see any follow-up posts after the lift kit was installed? Sorry if you posted elsewhere, but curious if you had any rubbing and if you could post some pics of your truck as it sits now? Thanks!

 

I have a 2024 limited with the factory trd lift kit. I had the dealer put on goodyear duratrac RT 285/60/20 tires and they fit perfect, very quiet and look great.. They also fit in a standard garage with no problem

 

Thank you for that update. That’s actually the size tire I was thinking of getting. Would love to see pictures of your truck.

 

We did another tundra with the same lift but with nitro grapplers but they were not the best in rain. The Goodyear I love. Here is the other one . From my knowledge the max tire size you can go with on the factory 3 in lift would be 285/65/20 ( factory trd 20 in wheels ) anything larger then this and you will rub..

 

Your pics look really good. Thanks for posting. Maybe I’ll see if I can find a tire dealer to try the 285/65/20’s on the front to see if there’s any rub against the sway bar. Or, try spacers. Thanks again!

 

How did this turn out for you. I'm in the same boat minus the garage height

 

So sorry for the extended delay in responding. Life happens.

I did get a set of Toyo Open Country AT3s in 285/65-20s and there is only a slight rub on the front side of the front tires when turning. It rubs up against the wheel liner (I guess you’d call it) but doesn’t hurt anything. I’ve looked to see how best to pin in back or strap it but not an obvious solution. It’s something that I’ll look into again when I modify the front with fog lights, CBI Covert bumper (most likely), winch and the heritage grill.

 

I went with 33.5's(285/60R20) and the TRD sway bar. Plenty of clearance. Had I to do it again I would go at least 34".

I am going to swap the grill to the TRD pro, add a light bar, finish up the electrical with a Blue Seas fuse block, and then talk myself into a covert bumper and winch. I'm pretty settled with an external air compressor so I don't think I'll qualify for a switch panel. If I go to scene lights on top of the Smart Cap and onboard Air, I'll go for a dual battery system.

The big question right now is can-bus integration to initiate the Pro grill light bar with high beams, or retain as it's own switch. I like to separate the high beams and light bar because I added aftermarket fog lights that in reality effectively serve as wide cornering lights. Or as I use them "deer in the side of the road" lights. But they only come in with low beams as a fog light control. So if I link the light bar to the high beams I won't be able to turn all my country road lights on at the same time for max visibility. It'll be either high beams and far distant spot beam from the light bar or low beams, no spot beams for distance, and wide cornering lights. On the other hand it's a recipient for disaster to be driving in a country road at night and see another car coming and have to turn off three switches at once, all in different locations.

 

I'm planning to do much the same and have many of the same questions to answer before moving ahead with additional mods. So my Toyo's are LT's so the diameter is 34.6" according to their website. (I know sizes vary by manufacturer.)

Because my truck came from the factory with the 3" lift, I have no fog lights so that's a huge priority for me. I think I'm going to go with the Diode Dynamics SS6 SAE or the Baja Designs SA2 SAE lights. Either way, I'm thinking I want these to be WHITE wide/flood lights to light up the immediate area and, therefore, they'll just plug into the connectors that are already there. Then, once I put the Covert bumper in, I'll go with a 20" amber or yellow light bar that I'll switch independently. Then, if necessary or my wallet provides, I may go with a light bar in the grill under the "TOTOTA" emblem which would probably be switched independently as well.

Looking hard at the Badlands 12k winch. Great price and pretty good reviews. I'm not planning on heaving off-roading but do get offroad often when dropping trees and cutting firewood and have gotten stuck a few too many times to not get a winch. Also planning to get some "cat shields" to hopefully prevent my catalytic converters from getting stolen. The truck sits up high enough that I can easily change oil without ramps so grabbing those would be easy enough.

Keep me posted on your progress and I'll do the same. Would love to see some pics as you move forward.

Good luck and enjoy the truck!

 

I was watching a bunch of install videos on the various bumpers this morning. Besides the surprisingly large difference in the construction and method of mount for the different brands out there like backwoods adventures versus CBI versus Victory 4x4 versus c4, The one thing they all had in common is that they all incorporated some sort of additional light cut out. At first I was kind of disappointed because I don't necessarily want to add another light bar to my truck and if I put an aftermarket bumper on now I feel obligated to fill a gaping hole. But then I had an idea. Because factory fog light holes are now filled with what is essentially an off-road light, I cannot legitimately turn these things on when driving on the highway. They are way too bright. But they are wired to the fog light switch on the stalk. The truck will automatically turn them off when I switch to high beams so I can't use them when I want max light. I also was reading on some threads about light bar installs guys on this forum did where they wired their big light bar to their high beams instead of using an aftermarket push button switch or switch pod. So when they want max light they just turn on their high beams and when a car is coming they just turn them off quickly and easily with one flip of the stalk. The fog light cutouts in the c4 Fabrications or RCI bumpers would provide an opportunity to install true amber fog lights in the truck and wire them to the truck's fog light wiring harness and separate them from the high output light bars. Then I could wire my big light bar in the grill to my aftermarket not-really-a-fog light in the factory holes together and using a can-bus link them to my high beams. That would provide low beams with a fog light option, and on high beams a distant spot beam from the big light bar with wide coverage cornering light from the aftermarket "fog" lights.

Right now I am leaning towards the Backwoods Adventure bumper. I like the fact that the front of the bumper and the winch mounting tray are two separate pieces so you can pull the front of it off and have wide and easy access to the winch. I also like the fact that the front part of the bumper is made out of aluminum to minimize the additional weight hanging on the front of the truck. And then I also, also like the fact that the tow points are part of the one piece winch tray. So if you're recovering with a shackle, it's bolted directly into the frame. Some of the other bumper options out there have the tow points on the front part of the bumper which is then bolted a mount which is then bolted to the frame.

 

lots to consider for sure. I appreciate your thoughts on the different bumpers and I will definitely revisit this topic before I pull the trigger.

one thing to keep in mind re: lighting options, though I’m not sure it would impact what you’re considering doing, is that I recall that for ON ROAD purposes is that you aren’t allowed to operate more than 2 light sets on your vehicle at a time. Now I haven’t payed close attention to this because it doesn’t apply to me, but where I think this could impact you with law enforcement is 1) regular low/high beam lights, 2) fog/driving lights in white or amber/yellow, and 3) adding another light bar anywhere on your vehicle. For OFF ROAD, obviously not an issue.

You raise good points though about how you switch the additional lights. The stalk would be ideal for convenience and safety.

 

Point taken about traffic regulations. Definitely want a standard switch to disable the light bar from your high beams when driving around in the city or suburban roads. I do a lot of driving in the mountains in Colorado. Last thing you want stepping onto the road at night is a mulie or elk. It pays to see them as far away as possible. I'll take my chances with the cops driving on a straight stretch in the middle of nowhere between Colorado and Wyoming at night over hitting at cow elk going 80, lol

https://youtu.be/HYkad070VzY?si=bzvJvK3Kg8NWwH78

 

Excellent point and I would think that law enforcement there would probably be much more lenient about lighting issues given the wildlife concerns, particularly if you’ve gone to the effort of tying the additional lights into your high beam switch.

Great video, too!