Resolved — Door Rattles on High Speaker

I started noticing a rattling sound inside all 4 doors when the speaker is on high. I finally took the door panels out today and I believe I have fixed it.

There is a pair of harness connectors (appears to be reserved for memory seat controls and side mirror retract) right above the speaker. The wires are not taped properly and rattles with the music from the speakers on heavy bass. I taped the wires thoroughly and the rattling reduced to unnoticeable.

The small plastic trim behind the inside door lever is also making a bit of rattling noise. I taped the plastic clips to achieve a tighter fit.

There are still a little bit of rattling coming from inside the door and I’m unable to reach in there and determine exactly what. But I can say it sounds so much better now. No cheap rattling sounds ruining my music.

 

I used automotive TESA tape and foam tape to fix those issues when I was sound deadening. No rattles at all anymore.

 

I actually removed my door panels last weekend too. Was tinting my windows and adding sound deadener to the insides of the doors. The sound of closing my doors now is so much more satisfying. No more tin can sounds.
I saw those harnesses in the front doors, and wondered what options they would go to. They aren't memory seats or folding mirrors. I have both of those options and still have the 2 harnesses appearing not to be plugged into anything. Possibly side impact sensors??

As for the little bit of extra rattling you have, try removing the piece of carpet in the bottom of your door handle. It's surprising how much that thing vibrates.

 

How much work to take off the door panel and reinstall?

 

It’s very simple I Followed YouTube videos

 

I am very curious about the two harnesses they might be reserved for new features in later model years

 

Very simple, trim pry tool to lift the switch panel and to remove the pull handle cover, 3 philip head screws, and a gentle tug at the front bottom corner of the panel and in comes right off. No broken clips, actually one of the easier ones I've removed. The only this id pay close attention to is the placement of the rubber endcaps on the window sweep for reinstalling.

 

The only reason I thought about sensors is because of all the wires. For example, my memory seats are just 2 wires for all 3 buttons. My pea brain can't imagine what options they could add, that would require all those connections.

 

So after some mind numbing searching thru the 'Ultimate TUNDRA Wiring Diagrams' on this site, I've tracked down the Grey and Blue wire connectors on the driver's door posted by the OP.
By utilizing my piping diagram, reading skills, I've determined the blue plug is the L17 No.12 Junction Connector. I haven't found the grey plug, which is the L16 No.11 Junction Connector. I'm assuming it's exactly what it says it is, just a wire junction box connection. Here's the diagram.
It does look like there are 7 wires going into the blue plug, which matches the diagram. Maybe someone with a higher functioning brain cell count than myself can chime in.

 

That is actually great information!

I looked at the documents as well, and I believe their functions are exactly like you said. Just a bunch of T-junctions.

I believe the two connectors their job is to connect a bunch of wires together, as opposed to soldering, which requires more labor and skilled soldering personnel to solder and test the connectivity on the production line.

The sockets of the corresponding connectors contain a bunch of shorted pins. I looked at the individual wiring diagrams. They connect to smart key systems, side mirror switches and motors, window regulator motors etc. Basically all must receive power from the battery. That’s why they used a short circuit connector to short out all wires that require power to the battery wire.

So in summary the connectors are not reserved for new features. They are simply short circuit junctions whose functions are similar to soldering.

 

Did you remove the little piece of carpet in the door handle yet?

 

Yes I taped some waterproof tape from Harbor Freight on the back side of the little carpet thingys hoping they would dampen the vibration

 

Good luck!

 

Thank you and thanks for the suggestion

 

Could it be for the electrochromic trailering mirrors with the back up lights? The extra function over the standard mirrors is that they can be extended out from the door and both have a backup light in the mirror housing .... and the right mirror is electrochromic vs the standard mirrors where only the left side is electrochromic.

 

No, check posts #9&10, just wire junction connections