What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Pick a date for me to help you with your springs. I'm stuck here til April the 10th, but have the garage available now thru the 5th. Any Thursday thru Saturday between the 10th and T2S, I could come to your place, if you're not planning a trip down here anytime soon.

 

not my pic, but i’m not worried. It definitely could be worse. The more i see, the less of a hill i find. I’ve found myself with $4k of stuff to do, but i think i have time to do it in installments. Like the timing belt isnt due for 30k. So mich time for this grenade to pop. & i can get something with pushrods like a real man.

 

The intake manifolds were sanded to become reasonable smooth. I wanted to leave a little bit of surface for POR15 clear to bond to. This stuff works on aluminum to keep it from oxidizing and makes it easy to clean. I started using it on a 5VZ project over 6 years ago.

 

Replaced the leaking oil cooler cover plate seals









Also talked to a Subaru corporate guy on premises today who has a 2nd Gen tundra and an LC 100

 

What’s the spring rate? Seems like a lot of threads showing on those kings.

 

700#
21 on driver, 18 on passenger (threads showing)

 

What am I looking at here?

 

Tail gate bushings , right?

 

Interesting. None of your upper and lower angles look extreme. Maybe just a longer spring in the future, but I guess as long as your preload is good for the current spring length then you are fine

 

I thought the 700# spring was one of the taller springs you could get

 

Eibach has 12”, 14”, and 16” length springs in a 700# spring rate

https://eibach.com/race-spring-search?diameter=3.00"+I.D.&length=&rate=700+lbs/in&type=Coilover+Spring+(Silver)

I believe 14” come standard for our trucks. There should be a marking on the spring

 

Received my Archive Garage Hammer Hangers and all 5 AT cooler hoses from Ourisman


Redid my drawer fronts with retracting flush mount handles vs just the thumb holes


Installed my Weboost. The main unit is under the driver's seat. Antenna on the rack and interior antenna on my MAM mount. I connected the power to one of my Auxbeam panel switches. Definitely works as advertised. There's a good video online that shows using your airplane mode button to force connect if your phone doesn't auto connect. I never had an issue while testing. I ordered this, not for streaming youtube everywhere, but for my time on the mountain. I hunt solo often and the area I spend time in has very very little signal. Hoping this will give me texting or Signal messaging, at the least. I looked into Starlink, but wanted to try this first. I have access to an Iridium for emergencies, but messaging on my standard cell would be nice. Plus...I tend to break down in Kansas...that sucks.

 

I dont FBk, but are those Toyota or aftermarket?

 

3D printed gold

 

Having more sway bar in the rear (or none in the front) will promote lift-off oversteer. Essentially if you brake while turning into a corner, it’ll want to swing the rear end around.

Might be fine since you’re going for the whole street truck thing, but with all the weight in the front I feel like it might get sketchy. Rarely will a stock car have a sway bar on the rear, but not the front.

 

And what would having a taller spring do/help with? Less preload and more usable travel?

 

Truck is in the transmission shop because it was throwing a solenoid code on 3-4 shifts, and the torque converter wasn’t locking up.

They called me just now to let me know that it isn’t fixed and they don’t know why it’s broken. Super helpful.

Apparently it isn’t even commanding TC lockup at all. Which is good, I guess. Likely isn’t something internally wrong with the transmission. He said their electrical guy is going to check it out tomorrow.

 

If you need a VB, I have a used one at the house I can send you. Although I doubt a shop would risk installing in and the chances of the casting numbers being the same are 1/13, but it's there if need be

 

Thanks, I’ll let you know. I’m pretty convinced it’s an electrical/ECU issue, just because this is the 4th time I’ve had a silly problem with a solenoid or the wiring.

 

Yeah that sounds about right. Did you see my later post about it feeling like a stadium truck in turns?
Luckily it's lowered 2" in front, but the front is 4600's and stock coils with 355k miles, so it ain't super tight up front. Definitely noticed some quirks driving it home in the rain this morning. I'll probably put the normal end links back on this weekend. But I gotta figure out how to get the clunking to stop. It's driving me crazy

 

Sounds about right at 3"

 

mind sharing the p/n for those 5 hoses? I wonder if they're the same for my one-less-gear trans

 

Tackled my starter today. The job was about half as bad as I thought it might be.


About an hour in to get to the starter.


Another hour to pull the old one and TONs of vacuuming. It was missing the breather vent on top as you can see. Valley wasn't horrible, better than expected. What I didn't expect was how the starter was literally on it's last leg, whoa!



20-25 min to install the new one.


Then an hour or better to razor scrape both gasket surfaces. They were pretty horrible, and even though I had checked with CarbCleaner for leaks, I'm pretty certain I may have solved my 900rpm idle (will find out tomorrow when I relearn the idle).
Constant vacuuming of the smallest debris, and IN the intake ports.



Just about dome cleaning here. A little Signature/Date/(and I added 297K on it as well)


Not so bad. I think I have a permanent dent in my gut from the hood latch. Had several interruptions but about 5hrs for this meat fisted snow monkey, I'm happy with that. Only snapped bolt was a 10mm for the plastic wiring harness holder back by the starter. One (the left) was already broken so I think it could be it's second replacement starter? Missed one vac line for the PS pump (right on top in plain view haha) She fired right up no problems. Flywheel looked like it took minor to very minimal damage even with the carnage that was going on in there with the starter. Appears to be a win today

 

I think you should be able to get all the usable travel out of the shock with those springs (assuming they are the 12”) ones. Where you might run into issues is if your preload is maxed out at your current ride hight and want to lift the front end up you might run into coil bind as well as a rougher ride. I’m at the max amount of preload with my springs before I get coil bind (about 3” of lift, I’m probably a little less due to the weight of the front end)

To answer your question, longer spring would use less preload to get a desired ride height

Here is how many threads I have showing with a 14” spring

im going to take a guess that he isn’t at 3” of lift based on where is UCA is sitting.

here is how mine looks with close to 3”

 

Apples to oranges when comparing two different brands I think. Let's compare his Kings to my Kings.
Driver

Passenger

 

I believe I’m running the 14” 700# springs and yeah I’d like to get closer to 3” maybe, and yeah I keep noticing the angles of other peoples control arms compared to mine, I feel like I could go a little bit higher

 

Before the Solos, Juan at Toy Lex told me I could go higher, too. But I lost my spanner wrench and King hasn't emailed me back about buying a new one in over a week. Not that it matters yet, because I still gotta add a leaf. I'm slightly squatted as is.

 

I couldn’t agree more. I was just using mine as a reference since the front suspension geometry of these trucks makes for little variation between brands with the same variables. For example an extended travel coilover with a 14” 700# spring.

It might be the angle but his still looks like a lot more threads showing than yours. Could be me though lol