Help Me Decide on Suspension

So, after finally finding my Tundra, I have already ordered ALOT of parts, (Timing Belt, Ball Joints, all that fun stuff). I figured before I turn the Tundra into my DD, I might as well do all the hard stuff before I get rid of my 4Runner. I need some help deciding on Suspension.

I have looked in all the Suspension threads. I think my choices have come down to:

1. OME 2884 Springs/Bilstein 5100 Shocks
2. Stock Springs/Bilstein 5100 Shocks
3. Stock Springs/Bilstein 4600 Shocks
4. OME 2884 Springs/Bilstein 4600 Shocks

I am more so intrigued about the people that have run 4600's and whether or not they ran aftermarket springs.

My Truck is a 2005 Double Cab 4x4. It will be mostly highway driven (50 miles a day).

It came with what looks like 4th Gen 4Runner Sport wheels with 265/70/17's on them. (I will post pics later). I really like the look of the wheels and tires. From what it seemed like on my 5 hour drive back from getting it, it only seemed to rub on full lock.

Anyways, I'm hoping you all can help me decide. Am I overthinking it? Just get 4600's and keep the stock springs and be done? If rubbing only at full lock, and if I understand correctly, lifting 1" I might even rub at full lock with 265/70/17, right?

 

Your rub problem is a problem of wheel backspace, not lift IMHO.

I personally wouldn't use OEM springs on raised circlips on the 5100, jsut based on real-world feedback from users on here about the ride being stiffer. Some folks don't seem to notice or mind. Others comment after moving to a lifted spring, "man, it rides so much better".

The other thing is, if you're going with a lifted spring, you can really only run the 5100s on the bottom circlip anyway, so I fail to see the advantage to using the 5100 specifically. I can only assume the 4600 will not have issues with the 2884, and that's the spring I'd go with to leave you with a tiny bit of rake, which would probably look awesome running inch-taller tires like the 265/70r17 offers.

That said, my option would probably be to go with #4, and go ahead and get a new tophat/isolator kit to go with those if what you buy doesn't come with any, and/or your factory ones are worn out. At ~$50 or less for new KYB tophats/isolators, it seems like a no-brainer to me. Or, if you just want near-stock height, the 2883 is where you want to be. You won't get a ton of lift out of the 2884, but it shoudl modernize the look of the truck and get rid of the silly OEM rake.

RE: My 1st comment/sentence -> If you're running the 6-spoke 4th gen T4R wheels (pic would help!) then those are 17x7.5 with an offset of +30 which puts you at almost 5.5" backspacing. Anything over 5" backspacing and you need to be concerned about suspension/tire rub. You may want to consider putting 1" spacers or a better wheel choice. I think the OEM "snowflake" T4R wheels had the same backspacing issue. OEM 17" "5-spoke split" wheels for our trucks were nearly dead-nuts 5" backspace, these 6-spoke T4R wheels put the tire ½" closer to the spring.

 

Thanks! Here is the best picture I have for now. I don't know if you can tell from this angle or not.

 

I have (relatively) new 4600s and the original progressive TRD springs. Here’s my take:

I put my 4600s on about 16,000 miles ago, and in that time my original springs have gone from “fine” to “completely shot”. My truck now has 221k miles on it, and it’s endured shitty Midwest roads and salty winters for all it’s life.

When I installed the new 4600s, the truck rode great. Now, with the springs being worn out, the front end sags, and it bottoms out on nearly every bump. It’s honestly brutal to drive sometimes. I think I would’ve been much happier if I had replaced the original TRD springs with a 2883 or 2884 when I did the shocks. There are users on here who are still using the original springs after 250k+ miles, but I think if your truck has more than 150k you’d probably be happier in the long run with new springs too.

Another advantage of the 2883/2884 spring is that you’d be able to reuse the spring and upgrade to a 5100 in the future if you’re not happy with the 4600, or if you eventually want a lift. Unless you’re dead set on lifting the front end, the 4600 is a fine shock for everyday use.

 

So...with the 4600's and 2884's (what I'm leaning towards), would it be worth it to get the extended sway bar links from Suspension Maxx?

OEM sway bar links are $95 a piece. Extended sway bar links would be about $69 a piece.

 

Those are the 4th gen 17" wheels from the TRD Sport
They have more backspace than the OEM wheels, so the meat of the rim sits closer to the frame. I think its about 15mm or so which is a little over a half an inch. This pushes the tire further inward towards the frame as well, which compounds itself when you turn pushing the tire into the inner fender against the cab.

Here is problem #1 and #2 that you are about to face

#1 when you lift your truck, it pushes the A-arms down, and this lifts the truck but subsequently swings the tire even closer to the frame. What you will most likely see with your current tire and wheel combo, if you put a floor jack under the front crossmember and jack up say +1.5" indicating a 1.5" lift you most likely are going to see the tire rubbing the upper A-arm. I suspect you are already crazy close, and with a lift you are most likely going to be rubbing the upper A-arm. This may lead you into needing a different wheel, or a thin spacer to give you the clearance, or maybe even new upper A-arms.

#2 i already for got what #2 is but if i remember what it is i will edit this post.

First edit: you likely only need about 1" higher in the front to clear those tires when turning, i suspect they are rubbing the mud flap right now. Those tires are not really too big for the truck, but them sitting in further than normal, i suspect is a compound effect when turning full lock and making them rub the inner corner of the mud flap mount in the inner fender. You should be able to get a flash light and peek around in the fender and see a shiny spot where the plastic shows signs of tire rubbing.

 

If you level your truck, get the extended links. Been there, done that, bent my stock links
@shifty` twice in one day.

 

Stock link “mod” for leveled FGT

 

In case it's not obvious to anyone, note the ~3/4" stack of washers under the bushing.

I always appreciated this "mod"

(Although the lack of threads up top is not ideal)

 

The nut is fully engaged with threads, about 1-2 threads sticking out the top

 

Quick question to tag along on this discussion for the extended sway bar links. Can they be used on stock setup? I am getting the truck road ready that I got from my dad. When they did the frame replacement, the original links were shot but did not replace them under the recall and so I need to put new ones on. I'm thinking about leveling the front but that will be several months down the road possibly (truck is about 1-1.5" lower on passenger side both front and rear right now). Is it okay to just get the extended links now instead of buying stock and then replacing a few months from now?

 

Suspension Maxx makes links for both stock height and lifted, FWIW.

Stock height: https://suspensionmaxx.com/product/smx-122260t
Lifted trucks: https://suspensionmaxx.com/product/smx-122270t

And the reality is, you can buy the extended links, and delete the swaybar completely before or during your install, then reinstall the swaybar later if you want.

Granted, I have 700lb springs on my truck currently, so maybe that's why deleting the swaybar hasn't been very noticeable for me. I know others have removed theirs, and even @oscardog86 deleted his front swabar and added a rear one at some point, IIRC?

But yeah. You've got options. If you do delete the swaybar, just don't go hitting 270° interstate offramps at 40mph+ and you should be fine. The only time I really notice not having a swaybar is if I'm turning at-speed.

 

Yes.

 

Thanks @shifty` I ended up ordering the stock lengths for now and they came in yesterday. Will be dropping off the truck, hopefully, tomorrow to get worked on. I found when my LBJ were replaced under recall and I still have about 20k miles to go before I should start being concerned. I figure I can wait that long to do the leveling at the same time and get the longer sway bar ends at that time as well. Can't wait to be able to start driving this every day to get the kinks out of it after the new timing belt gets installed.

 

I’m running Bilstein 5100’s bottom notch with dobinson 300 springs from first gen off-road. They ride amazing and weren’t terrible expensive. Have had a few comments on how nice it rides.

 

My advice, go with the 4600's. Don't lift it. Get rid of the 265/70/17's and use factory alloys with 6 ply LT265/75R16's, which fit the wheel wells without rubbing and will ride nice. The 265/70/17's are the same diameter and width as the LT265/75R16's. Keep the stock springs.

 

https://www.1stgenoffroad.com/store/c18/TundraSuspension#/

Buddy went 5100/Dobinsons 302's and really likes it. He had a full OME kit in his last Tundra and didn't care for it, was kind of worn out though.