What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

He does sell a supplemental amp that pairs with the JBL setup that really helps too.

 

Did the LC blower upgrade and took off the bosch icon blades and replaced it with oem blades. The oem blades fit and look so much better than the bosch icon.

 

Big difference with the motor ? Trying to justify if its worth it my factory motor
Works fine and i have no complaints ,… but can i make it better

 

Haven’t test it yet. It’ll be sunday when i drive the truck. Base on all the comments on the forum, people are quite happy with the result. Quiet, more air output. If you are perfectly contend with the current setup, I would stay put. Someone tested the output and it netted 7.5% increase over the stock blower. It may be small but for some it’s worth it..

 

If you're trying to stablize more w/that camper you're running forget about 'upgrading' your sway bars and look into the RAS setup...

You'll want the HD setup, and if you ever get rid of the camper you can dial down the tension and it'll bring it close to level 'unloaded'

 

I had Roadmaster in conjunction with yellow sumos. It was too stiff and felt like it was jarring the frame every time id catch a rut. I'm going to run the TRD sway with hd leafs and probably a set of Firestone bags, that way I can dial in just the right amount of squish.
I'm also kicking around the idea of the Helwig system shot.

 

I didn't run any scientific test but the FEEL test is all I needed .....blow baby blow

 

Interesting, I'm stepping away from airbags to go to the RAS-HD with Wheeler's superbumps to match my fronts. I've had airbags for a while, and my main annoyance is how rough they ride, and the fact that no matter how many times I leak check the damn things, they lose pressure over and over. I try to keep them at 5-10 psi unloaded, but within a week or two they're back to 0.

 

x2 on the rough ride with bags! I had them on my 2015 for a couple of years. Moved to Sumo and was much happier. Now I just let the suspension squat a little. It handles great, drives great, works great, just does not look as good while hauling. My axle weights are now correct. With bags and Sumos my rear axle was quickly overloaded.

 

So y'all are saying I should put the RAS back on and leave the sumos off? I kinda figured more is better but I might've overdone it.

 

Cooper Discoverer AT3 XLT.

apparently its a thing, but more common on the sidewalls? my friend has the same tires, and they have it too. he has a 100% road car.

 

It depends on what you are looking to do.
Personally I bought a half ton truck because they ride nice. That nice ride comes with suspension deflection. If you eliminate all of the suspension deflection it will not squat but it will ride like crap..... Why own a half ton if you are going to spring it like a one ton?

 

Because it was a free truck and I'm working with what I've got.

I don't mind the squat, that's whatever. What I need is something that can support the weight but NOT be so stiff that it shocks the frame. eventually I'll get a bigger truck, when my budget will allow it.

 

If I make a harness that has a 7 pole connector on 1 end and this 4 pole on the other would I be able to charge the camper off the truck? I'm not entirely sure what this outlet is for to be totally honest. I assume it's running lights and maybe a battery charger


Definitely needs cleaned up and greased.
I got a harness like that with the camper but it's a hack job and never worked.

 

CSF radiator installed

Based on current weather conditions ( COLD )
You’d think that i should have waited but if it’s this cold then i tend to think the heat will be furious when it does come.

 

Don’t see why it wouldn’t work. I’d investigate what that plug does and make sure the truck circuit could support the draw but in theory yes it should work.

 

That is a common connector on a camper. That would be ground, right turn, left turn and running lights. If you want to charge the camper battery, you will need to run an additional wire to the battery.
the Tundra already has a 12 hot in the 7-pin that is intended to charge a battery.

 

I'd say you do what you feel is best. I got the bags years ago because I had an opportunity to buy a set off a buddies truck before he traded it in. I haven't been thrilled with them and the problems just annoy me more than they're worth anymore. I used to work for a dealer where we stocked the RAS so I've put a lot of sets on, and I never saw any complaints about them not handling weight or rough ride, I think you're the first I've seen saying that. Might be the Sumo's though, all the ones I've installed have been with factory bumps. I'm doing Wheeler super bumps on mine, because that matches what I've got on the front.

 

Ya I'm blaming the sumos as well. gonna try the RAS again by itself before I get carried away.

 

It does blow out more air. Worth it to me.

 

Yep, the JBL DSP amp, I have that as well. Still need to go back and finish up the sound deadening install and then really ask myself do I want or need more.

 

I have the blue sumos which aren't as stiff

 

Just some overdue maintenance items. Ordered supplies to complete a full Front/Rear Differential fluid change as well as the Transfer Case. Truck is going in tomorrow to the dealer for a prepaid oil change and I plan to have them complete a transmission drain/refill. The rest I will be doing myself.

Front Differential:

• Fluid: Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-85 100% synthetic gear lube (3 qts, 2.2qt capacity)
• Fill Washer: Toyota Part#
  $14 12157-10010 Toyota Oil Drain Plug Crushable Steel Gaskets Set of 10 OEM 12157-10010
  12157-10010 (steel crush gasket)
• Fill Plug: Switching to Lexus Part# 90341-18060 (29ft lbs)
• Drain Washer: Toyota Part# 90430-24017 (copper flat gasket)
• Drain Plug: Switching to Lexus Part# 90341-24016 (29ft lbs)

Rear Differential:

• Fluid: Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-85 100% synthetic gear lube (4 qts, 3.85qt capacity)
• Drain Plug: Toyota Part# 90341-18057 (36ft lbs)
• Drain Washer: Toyota Part# 12157-10010 (steel crush gasket)
• Fill Plug: Toyota Part# 90341-A0002 (36ft lbs)
• Fill Washer: Toyota Part# 12157-10010 (steel crush gasket)

Transfer Case:

• Fluid: Ravenol Gear Oil MTF-3 75W (Ordered 2 liters, capacity 1.58qts)
• Drain Plug: Toyota Part# 36136-0C010 (18ft lbs)
• Drain Washer: N/A
• Fill Plug: Toyota Part# 36136-0C010 (18ft lbs)
• Fill Washer: N/A

Switching from K&N Oiled Air Filter to the AFE Magnum Flow OE Replacement Filter w/Pro DRY S Media. Part Number:

$94 31-10146 aFe POWER Magnum FLOW OE Replacement Air Filter w/Pro DRY S Media for Toyota Tundra 07-21 V6-4.0L/V8-4.6L/4.7L/5.7L #31-10146

31-10146 (for Magnuson airbox)

Ordered a new Wix charcoal Cabin Filter. Part# 24511

Also plan to replace the belt at the same time due to some minor squealing as the ac compressor kicks on (I believe this is just the belt, so hopefully that does the trick).

There are many writeups on the above items so I don't plan on documenting, but will post some pictures as I tackle it. Just ordered everything today so it will probably be 1-2 weekends out before everything arrives and I have the time.

Edit: Some parts arrived, but still waiting on a few more items.

 

Thanks for the reminder, I need to do my cabin filter

 

No. We deal with hurricanes to have these moments LOL...

I am looking forward to getting into the sky coca next winter.

 

Finally got to drive in some snow, truck and tires did fantastic. the rim and Strawberry AZ.

 

Thank you for the part #s and such... will put this on my future TO DOs

 

I would love to hear some feed back on these!

 

I’ve ran this brand on other cars top notch quality. I’ll post up after they go in.

 

How do I tell if it's JBL?

Also I have no idea for audio. What's a system that's better then stock but cheaper, something mid range, and something expensive for generalized system costs? I'm not huge into subs and bass for the sake of bass I just want good sound.