RESOLVED: "Walk" / pull to right over washboard road bumps

Piggybacking off of my other thread about hard pulling right over washboard type construction area or bad road, where I ultimately decided to get Dobinson coil overs. I believe the hard pull right over rough patches of road is due to a difference in caster between the Left right front wheels. However, It still has shown me I need different core overs and to drop back down to the bottom perch on the 5100s


I've already replaced the LBJ's, steering rack and bushings, inner and outer TRE's, Suspension Maxx stableizer bar links. That leaves the upper ball joints/UCA's

I should have between one and 1-3/4 and 2 inches of lift over factory once I put the Dobinson's on. Anticipate no need to ever go higher. I've developed some soft clunking noises and possible vibrations on the front right after raising it to the second step on the 5100's. I can't 100% confirm the vibrations Other than to say, it is not the tires and wheels and I have a new driveshaft with all new spicer U joints and carrier bearing. Transmission has been rebuilt with a new torque converter and is secure as designed

it just makes sense to go ahead and replace the upper ball joints while I do the new coil lovers that's the last significant component in the front suspension and steering




Should I stick with my OEM UCA's and just replace the upper ball joints?

Should I get aftermarket UCA's with ball joints?

I've got just enough time to order this before install the new coil overs and need advice

 

I think at 2" you won't NEED a new UCA. But it may just be one of those "if you ever plan on going a tad higher" it'll help get better alignments. I'm currently experimenting with KSP and so is @VR6T I have no complaints currently. And I don't think he does either, considering he has ran his with barely lubed UBJ's and it hasn't dropped outta its socket. I'm *almost convinced they're not that bad for $250ish.

 

A little overkill for where i'm at, but will be perfect eventually. JBA's $550.

 

Are the JBAs adjustable?

 

No, but mine are the high caster HD version.

 

I am expecting delivery today of the Eibach UCAs that are supposed to be the same as SPC. I've had SPC on my last 2 trucks and have been really happy with them but the new price tag that I saw seemed excessive so wanted to check out the Eibach branded ones.

 

Do you have the alignment specs?

 

I just took delivery of my new "Eibach" UCAs and can confirm that they are in fact rebranded SPC. The arm and the bushings both had SPC logos on them. Got them for a roughly half the cost. Elite Race Fab has them listed for $710 and if you use code "JULY4" you get 15% off.

 

I have these on my rig and also recommend them too. They've held us very well here in the pnw. Never had any alignment issues toe and camber are great and caster is at like 6° Just grease them every oil change and they're good to go.

 

I've got it, but I temporarily misplaced it

The alignment was much better, but for whatever reason one side's caster was 2 the other was 1.3 ish if I remember correctly. The alignment shop is going to correct that after I get the dobbies installed and upper ball joints replaced

 

Thanks guys for all the input.

I just wanted to be sure. But I have no anticipation of lifting it any higher. This works perfect for my tire wheel combo and what I'm after.

Therefore, since it should still be no more thqn 2 inches of lift with the new Dobbies back down to the bottom perch I'm gonna replace my upper ball joints and stick with the OEM UCA's


I believe that last inch of lift on the 5100's 2nd perch just pushed it over the edge and it's too stiff for me. Then the pull to the right was because the caster on one side was notably different than the other. Alignment shop will correct that.

 

Dobs are a thinner spring too so you should have pleny of spring /uca clearance at fool droop

 

In case anyone is having a similar problem, I'm following up on this thread now that I've got a little more experience with the issues

What I found is that with these lifted vehicles with stiffer suspensions make certain your alignment shop sets the caster the same on both sides. Just being within the recommended tolerance from the factory is not sufficient when the suspension is stiffer. The caster on both sides was set within tolerance, but was not identical This is what caused the walk Bumping those 2883's up to the second perch on the bilstein's definitely made it too stiff for my liking, but the actual walk was from the unequal caster


I'm happy I changed to the Dobinson springs. They're ever so slightly not as stiff, but the other contributing factor for the walk was the difference in caster from one side to the other. After installing the Dobinson's and a new alignment, I can still feel just a little bit of walk. It wasn't as scary but having the shop adjust the caster so both sides match corrected it.

 

Good looks on that. Do you remember what you post alignment caster #'s were?

 

I believe @assassin10000 recommended 2.8
However, once I went from the 2883's to the Dobinson Coils which put it at just over 1.5 inches of lift mine was well over 3 and I could not go any lower unless I got new aftermarket UCA's

 

Over 3 is fine. I'd consider 2.5 a minimum if possible.


Usually lifting gives less available caster. Thats why aftermarket UCA have extra built in.

 

thanks. that's what I suspected but something just doesn't add up.

once I changed the 2883's out for the Dobinson coils to get a little more lift while staying on the bottom perch of the 5100's (now about 1-1/2 to 1-3/4" of lift) they say the caster now cannot be adjusted down below about 3.4

it sounds like the problem is normally the opposite

 

Yep.

Not a bad problem for you though.