Use the correct motor oil

I know I’m a newbie to this site. My background is engine parts sales and a former engine machinist from 1979 through 2000.
Older engines that used flat tapped camshafts require off-road oil or racing oil just to have enough zinc / ZDDP to protect the camshaft and lifters.
I have a 2001 Tundra with a 4.7 V8. Obviously this engine does not have flat tapped lifters, but it does have the valve lifter bucket discs which run directly against the camshaft just like an American made V8 lifter does. When these engines were new in the early 2000s, the engine oil matched the engine requirements. Nowadays, they do not.
Currently, I run Valvoline VR-1 performance oil in a 10w30 weight. I use this because of the higher zinc/ZDDP in order to protect the camshaft. I know everyone says you’re supposed to use 5w30, but living in Texas, the cold temperature is not as big a problem as the hot temperature.
If you own a first year Tundra, do yourself a favor and find an oil that has a high zinc/ZDDP content. You will usually have to buy it from a performance shop, or direct from the manufacturer.
Some popular brands are Redline, Driven/Joe Gibbs, Brad Penn, Torco, Valvoline VR-1, Castro GTX Classic, Lucas Hot Rod/Classic, Maxima, Royal Purple.
Look for terms “High Zinc”, “Hot Rod Oil”, “Classic Car Oil” on the bottle.
Also, these oils will NOT have the API logo, seal, or “donut” on the bottle because, again, they are “off road” oil.
Hope this helps.

 

Interesting. I’ve got a 2000 that has had Synthetic 5w30 for the last 178k miles, usually Pennzoil Platinum high mileage. It’s at 278k miles total, all seems to be well.

 

Not to sound like a no-it-all but each “letter” in the API certification seal reduces the amount of zinc friction reducer ppm. For example, SJ had more zinc than SL which had more than SM which had more zinc than SN. Now, SP is the current rating and is recommended for engines with roller lifters. The reason the certifications change is due to auto makers wanting to promote oil that helps them meet current mileage standards. They couldn’t care less if their oil may not be the best for a 20-25 year old engine.

BTW, when my truck was new, SJ classification oil was what it required. Oil companies will tell you each subsequent classification “supersedes” all previous classifications but NASCAR found out the hard way that’s not the case.

In and around 2008, the Joe Gibbs race team was killing 1 out of 10 camshafts on their engine dyno until they realized they needed a different oil than simple off the shelf oil. After developing their own oil with the help of Lubrizol, they developed an additive package that reduced their cam failures to only 1 out of 40-50 camshafts on their dyno. It’s a really interesting story told by Lake Speed Jr. This is how Joe Gibbs / Driven race oil came to be.

Because the 4.7L V8 doesn’t have roller lifters, roller followers, or any roller bearing type valve train parts, I want an oil that has as close to the zinc ppm quantities that were in oils of the early 2000’s. The current off the shelf oils are formulated this way, doesn’t matter whose fancy name is on the bottle. This is all hype and marketing.

I do use off the shelf oil in my wife’s 2023 Subaru because that’s what it requires. I buy the WalMart’s synthetic which has the same certification as the high dollar, nationally advertised brands.

 

thanks for sharing that info. Went to the Valvoline site, not to bad a price for the 5 quart size and 25% of if you buy for than two. In the specs it said not recommended for vehicles with catalytic converters. What is your take on that? Thanks

 

No mention of Amsoil.

This does not bode well.

 

Not doubting your knowledge but I’ve got over 300k on my 2001 Sequoia. This truck has been thru 24 Wisconsin winters and the only oil I’ve ever put in it, was old school Castrol GTX 5W-30. The motor on this truck is far smoother and quieter than the motor 5.7 in my newer TRD Pro Tundra. I think a lot of that, is due to the fact that the older 4.7’s have timing belts instead of chains.

 

Amsoil makes Z-Rod oil with ZDDP I used to run it in my 4.0 Cherokee before I sold it. Good oil.
Before the days of catalytic converters and oxygen sensors, it was OK to put gobs of zinc in your oil. But it was discovered that zinc shorts out oxygen sensors. So engines with both oxygen sensors and flat tappet cams need just the right amount of ZDDP, enough to protect the cam and not enough to short out the oxygen sensors. If you have the latter, don't just buy a jug of ZDDP additive and pour some in the crankcase. Do research and use oil made specifically for that type of engine.

 

Short of saying everyone can disregard this advice from OP, when the 2UZ came out, they were recommending conventional oil. Newer synthetic oils don’t play the same way. Zinc was necessary as a wear additive then due to the base oil’s properties. It’s still used, but to a lesser degree as previously mentioned for catalytic converter protection. And remember, Victor’s 1MM 2UZ wasn’t running on old SJ spec oil. It was using dealership oil, maybe bulk barrel grade “Toyota” oil (maybe M1 or maybe some bulk alternative).

 

I do everything I can to NOT discuss my background!!! Anyhow, on my 2000 TRD pickup and 2002 Sequoia Limited have always got Castrol GTX. I just for the first time used Costco 5-30 in the Sequoia because I had it on the shelf.
Both trucks run fantastic.
While I use Lucas Hot Rod oil in all my classics, I would never put that in a Tundra

 

It’s a shame differences of opinions can not be shared without feeling like one needs to go low in an attempt to show their smartness or lack there of.

 

Regardless of arguments, I'm confident in continuing to use Mobil 1 full synthetic 5W-30 and 0W-20 in my 2UZ-FE and 1GR-FE respectively, every 5K. Both run excellent, no oil burn, no leaks, no problems in the 120* heat in PHX. I fully expect both of these engines to outlive me. There are always going to be arguments about which oil is superior. The way I look at it is; as long as you do regular maintenance and keep up with things before they become problems, you'll have no problems. These aren't race engines. Use what the manufacturer recommends.

 

This my friend is the nature of the world we live in today. Thankfully tundras.com mods insulate us from 99% of the inanity. Try one of the FB groups to see how badly people can behave.

 

I had always figured the manufacturers recommendation of thin oil was because they try to meet gas mileage standards so I ran Mobil 1 10-W30 in my 2006 for a couple hundred thousand miles. I figured I was probably wrong about that so now I run Amsoil Signature Series 5 w 30. No engine problems with either oil. 300K miles now.

 

This was a very real concern for my flat tappet 68 Porsche so it gets only Brad Penn high ZDDP oil. All my Toyotas and other vehicles have alway has Walmart SuperTech 5W30 full synthetic. Recently pulled valve covers on two on of which has over 300K and looked like new inside. I see no reason to change at this point.

 

The Pros and Cons of Using Thicker Motor Oils

 

Interesting. I used Castrol GTX for years but switched to Mobil 1 when my local store quit carrying the GTX. In the Mobil 1 I see two formulas, the standard one which is API SN+ and the "European Formula" which is API SL. The SL spec from 2004 allows .11% zinc and .1% phosphorous while SN+ is far lower to extend catalytic converter life.

Seems like a doubled-edged sword. You can protect your cams or protect your cats but not both.

 

Yes, totally omitted AMSOIL. My bad, they do have a high zinc oil.
My apologies to the AMSOIL fans out there

 

Re: "Use what the manufacturer recommends".

This is the exact point I was attempting to make. The manufacturer's recommended oil no longer exists, the SJ certification.

Also, in reference to catalytic converters, again I refer to the SJ oil from the early 2000's that had zinc in it back then.

For me, I would rather protect my engine than a catalytic converter.

Thanks for all of the discussion. Maybe the 4.7L is so well engineered that one could basically run anything and be ok, lol.

 

An oil thread, really? Let's talk politics next.

 

New guy rolls in with an oil thread

 

I'm SOOOOO sorry. Didn't know certain topics were off limits

 

trust me they took it easy on you...

 

Not the least bit concerned.

 

*Slides in. Rather smoothly, I might add.

 

How many zinc pennies do i need to add?

 

Gotta score the copper coating so it releases the zinc-y goodness

 

Start collecting those pennies now before they're a collectors item.

 

How many pennies fit in a 5 gallon water bottle? I wondered for years until the glass broke...

~30,000!

 

LOL! You guys are hilarious.
I'm so glad this site has members with a sense of humor. I've been on forums that most of the members are so serious it's not much fun interacting with them.

Just got out of the hospital last week. Had 3 stents put in so I could really use some humor!!!
Y'all made my day !!!!

 

What kinda cheap a$$ f$%&@r puts pennies in a f&):;$)n’ swear jar? Asking for a friend, of course.