General Supercharger Thread

Stronger holding capacity and to test it out. I like trying new things. I don't mind the added maintenance or maybe push it to every 18 months -2 years.

 

So... are you wanting your sister transported or are you really referring to a cat??

PS>>> Is she hot?? (not the cat)

 

Haha. As the older bro...she's cool.

 

God damned mess!

 

Nasty!

 

Fun times. I still have to do mine. The glob of rtv is still holding. Did you have to use a lot of persuasion?

 

Have to do mine too. I'll do it when it seizes someday

 

Hate grease, it gets everywhere.

 

Did a ATF swap in my trans this weekend due to getting a high temp alarm while pulling out a stuck fedex truck. Had 4 gallons on hand. Did the pan drain and fill (same amount). Then drained from the trans cooler 2x times, which is definitely messy if not careful haha. Fluid did not smell burnt and didn’t look to bad.

Then intentionally overfilled by about a quart. What was interesting is when I went to check the check plug on the trans nothing came out when the truck was running at the 100ish degree mark. I then checked with the truck off and it appears there is about a quart difference in pan level between running and not running. I then added more and eventually got the check plug to overflow and sealed everything up.

I totaled my out vs in and I think I was a quart short last few thousand miles, glad I did it all myself to see. Going for a longer test drive, call AAA if I don’t come back (jk).

 

It doesn't surprise me as I've heard/seen dealerships and online do different methods that can potentially be off. I'd rather err on more than less.
Changed my Highlanders' atf/filter and it was nasty at 100k. I made a fricken mess when the pan fell into the drain pan. I pay more attention to the truck but not so much to it. Guess I should do the front and rear diffs too.

 

It took a good amount of persuasion to bust out the axle loose from the wheel side. The most frustrating thing was the stupid fucking new CV boot clips. Make sure to use a snap on or some quality crimper or different clips then the toyota kit pressure ones. I straight snapped a shit O'Reilly crimper in two. Had to finish them off with dykes

 

Yeah, end dykes are the winner. Those clamp crimp tools are weak and I mangled the first one I had and never went back to using them.

 

The Toyota crimp tools works great… there are dozens of copies, all inexpensive.

 

How much over has been deemed safe for ATF fluid? I want to verify I have enough, & while I'm there I'd like to add as much as is safe.

 

One quart without causing issues.

 

When in temp check mode, and you’re at temp. Open check plug and drain excess. Once the stream changes from constant, reinstall check plug. This will over fill by almost a pint.

 

Troubleshooting for the collective. Guy installed a blower a couple weeks ago and I helped him with the tune. The truck at medium-high load sometimes randomly gets a dead pedal. Throttle blade seems to abruptly close, and taking your foot off the accelerator and back on and it will respond again. It doesn't throw any codes, and doesn't happen during normal driving. Sometimes doesn't happen at WOT or aggressively accelerating, but when it does happen it's always when the engine is loading up a bit. He says it didn't do this before installing the blower/flashing the truck. Any ideas? I'm not sure where to even go, we tried a tune with stock torque limits and he said it still happens. I would think if the accelerator pedal or the throttle body or something else was having issues it'd throw a code? I was going to do a tune with the bare minimum of changes to see if it still happens, but I don't have any feel if it's a physical or tuning issue. The truck is a 2010 FFV with a 1900.

 

And there's definitely no Pedal Commander or anything like that? The TPS harness is "clicked in" tight? I know this is mostly rhetorical but dumb stuff happens...

 

Have you eliminated fueling or nannies?

I've had something similar when I'm below half a tank and the nannies are on. Occasionally on short rapid acceleration but usually on longer pulls.

 

AFR is fine, and it's not like a fuel cut or lean out or traction control, the thing jolts as the throttle body abruptly closes and giving it more throttle doesn't do anything until you let off completely and then it seems to reset whatever triggered it to cut the throttle.

 

Sounds different than what I've experienced then.

 

As far as I know all of that checks out.

 

What is the airload compared to engine torque when it goes dead? At what rpm?
Doesn't make sense if your using those trd SC values.

 

Not sure what the airload is even doing since HP Tuners refuses to log 95% of things on this guys truck to make matters worse. I left the airload table alone, I could change that but generally I don't touch it.

 

What do you mean it doesn’t log 95% of the things?

 

This is the channel list I use, that most trucks don't have an issue with:



Out of all of that, this is what his truck picks up:



And a bunch of other stuff is missing. None of the misfire history shows up, about 75% of the spark parameters show up but knock feedback and actual spark do not. Can't see injector duty cycle, etc. I've had this on some trucks, like really new ones like a 2021 or Lexus trucks I've tuned, but this is a 2010 so odd such an old ECU wouldn't pick up any parameters. And we've tried all the HPT recommendations and nothing helped so far.

 

On my 17 FFV I notice a dead pedal between shifts with fresh tune mid to mid high acceleration. For me it's seems to be the transmission that will hang. When I let off and get back on it, transmission will shift and then I'm immediately off again. After putting on miles it always smooths out and the dead pedal slowly disappears. On my truck it seems to takes a good amount of miles for the transmission to learn up. I make sure to accelerate and hold throughout the entire pedal range for a while before really ripping. But I'm not sure if this is similar to what you're speaking of with the throttle loss.

 

Ask if he’s got a stereo that plugs into the OBD 2 and if he does, disconnect the adapter plug and disable the OBD in the radio. Had the same issue on mine and the radio was the problem.

 

His eth is also at 18%. I have to reset my eth content for it always creeps up and throws off my A/F on fill ups. I tune to 0% eth content. Also there are many eth % sub tables in timing advance/retard, fuel etc. I have them all the same for consistency. I know these tables would jack up my injectors and fuel tables when eth learned up. And i never run eth.

 

Not that, already had him unplug all the goods and made no difference. Beta version, my laptop, his laptop, both our MPVI, nothing changes it. I'll reconfirm that everything is unplugged but last I knew it was.