How many of you are bypassing the coolant on your throttle body?

Clearly Keith with Dirty Deeds is a fan. Having read a bit more on this, the MAF reads and adjusts before the TB, and with the velocity of the air going into the TB, it might be a moot point, but less heat is better, right?

I live in upstate, SC. So while it does snow on occasion, it's not like Denver, Michigan or god forbid Montana like our friend @memario1214

So what says you? I'll be under the hood anyway in the coming weeks as well as installing the Stillen TruPower I was conned into by you jerks. Worth just doing this while I'm there?

 

My iats are the same as ambient while driving. If decreasing intake temp is the reason, im not convinced.

 

I believe that is correct. But the MAF is before TB closer to intake box and is responsible for A/F I believe so I'm not sold

 

Most of the people with superchargers reroute the coolant around the TB, with the coolant temps getting to 190+ degrees, it's not cooling anything.

 

Waste of time imo, but a 190deg throttle body certainly isn't helping the engine either.

 

~1% HP gain per 10* of temp drop is the rule of thumb. Not sure what it means on NA set ups.

 

I'm in Southern Cali where it never snows or gets anywhere below 40° so I bypassed mine just for f sakes. I can't really say there's noticably high performance gains from it. Also I didn't do any testing or readings since at the time I didn't have the Scangauge that I have now but it's such an easy mod with no negative consequences (unless your in freezing temps) I figured, eh why not.

Edit:
Not sure if you came across this thread yet but
@Silver17 did some testing here..
https://www.tundras.com/threads/tundra-throttle-body-coolant-bypass-mod.118879/#post-3555871

 

yep, had found that. I assume this may be more popular with the S/C crowd. I think I'll let it be for the time being. Just paused to consider it as I will be installing the Stillen intake next week.

 

Did the bypass on mine a couple years ago. Usually mild here in the winter (but was 12° yesterday morning ) and the summers are hot. Don't know that it's helped anything, but it hasn't caused any problems.

 

I did it out of boredom.

 

Waste of time.

 

You might be the best person to ask - I have a 165 degree thermostat sitting on my shelf from Mishimoto. I’ve been reluctant to install it because I’ve read the truck will not get warm enough to enter its normal ECU programming essentially always staying in a state of “warm up” mode…

Do you have an opinion?

 

There's a number of ECM features that don't become active until 182deg (in stock form), ie that's when the truck thinks it has warmed up. So there is merit to your idea. If your truck runs hot to begin with, then the cooler thermostat MIGHT drop the temperatures a bit and stay above that 182deg threshold. If the trucks normal operating temp is in the 190-200deg zone it's debatable if it's worth doing, or even be detrimental.

 

What are you trying to achieve with a lower temp thermostat? These trucks don’t run hot like the ecoboost f150 do.

low temp thermostats used to be the trick way back or a way to mask an overheating issue.

 

Just trying to make things easier in our brutal summers. I use the truck to tow a boat up and down 8% grades in 120 degrees.

Highest temps I’ve see were around 212 working it hard. Anything under 80 degrees out unladen and it runs right at 185.

 

Coolant in the tb is not there to cool anything. It is there to warm up the intake air. They do this for economy. The warmer the air, the better the atomized fuel will mix with the air. The better it mixes, the further lean you can go without a performance hit. This is one of the benefits of direct injection. For max power, you want the densest air possible and that means cold. Great for a hot rod, not so great for a vehicle you drive to work.

 

I wouldn't worry about it. My engine has seen similar and higher temperatures plenty of times when I go down the hill where it can be 110+ too, and/or hanging out in boost for awhile. 212 isn't that bad, 220 is my mark where I start to back off and don't want to exceed it. That still leaves ample headroom that the engine could get hotter and still be fine. As long as you monitor your temps when towing which obviously you do, I wouldn't sweat it or swap the thermostat personally.

 

I did this last summer and through our winter hitting -32F, this year, all went well and I sit about 6-10° above ambient in summer and a consistent 3° above in winter... no icing up issues and only cooler air. Humidity and extreme temperature fluctuations could cause challenges...

 

The intake and intake manifold are both plastic. I'd bet that bypassing coolant to the throttle body is a negligible difference in power.

 

Correct, not enough to feel it, but helps with a more responsive feeling in moving...perhaps...I did it, have no adverse effects while.driving,but can see my IAT are significantly lower with it done...it's just hard to just not do stuff to cars...ha!

The SABM, however, does provide better breathing, sound, and increases the responsiveness.

 

That is a placebo effect. The IAT is measured in the MAF sensor, which is upstream from the TB. In other words, the coolant is warming the air AFTER it has passed the IAT sensor.

 

Let us know how many swear words you create when you install the Stillen. The 2 bolts in the bottom of the box are a PITA!

 

LOL, should I start a swear word jar before I get going? Then count up the coins in there afterwards?

I'd read those 2 are a PITA, but the rest looks pretty straightforward. Add in, I'm using the TRD air accelerator, and initially not planning on cutting it or the box, we'll see how that goes

 

Coming from a background of remote 'wheeling and camping, I like dead-simple.

Coolant is EXTREMELY important and significant leaks are show-stoppers. I guess you can carry sat phones these days, but I'm regularly in places where there is no cell coverage and the average vehicle can't reach me.

I don't see the point in routing a critical fluid to extraneous locations with small, custom-molded hoses. I'd prefer to reduce the number of hoses and use a straight shot of off-the-shelf hose, or plug the ports altogether if possible.

But I would never expect "performance" gains. However I judge performance as increased simplicity, reduced risk of breakdown and easier field serviceability.

And yeah, I imagine these OEM hoses rarely fail. I just don't LIKE KNOWING they're there if they're not necessary. I don't enjoy having the hood up on what should be a relaxing weekend of remote camping.

 

So you're solution is to take something that has a 0% failure rate and modify it to make it less prone to failure? That math ain't mathin'.

 

I just want to know what the hell the purpose of this coolant circuit is…

 

Its common, used by many manufacturers. It's to make sure there is no icing/freezing of the throttle body which could lead to the throttle body being stuck partially open.

 

It defrosts the throttle butterfly valve on REALLY cold start ups. I bypassed the same thing on all my old Land Rovers (bosch throttle body as they all leaked) but there is no performance/intake temp gain.

 

As mentioned it's supposed to prevent icing on the butterfly. I've never had a problem in CO, but we're pretty arid, even when it's actively snowing.