What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

Just read the description on their web site (I hadn't before writing my earlier question). Squinting as I write this, as it stands a signficant risk of being a stupid question... Once you start your truck, if you turn the kill switch off, I'm presuming the truck stays on. It just interrupts the starter, correct?

 

Anybody know of a 2 pole switch that will pop into this opening?
I ordered one off Amazon that said it fit... it didn't

 

Just pulled this out of the shoulder of one of my new tires.

 

Here you go.....

https://ch4x4.com/product-category/small-push-series-for-toyota/

 

Put in 4H today!

 

https://www.aironboard.com/online/products/switches/toyota-rocker-switches.html

 

Changed spark plugs and reset a mouse/rat trap on the engine cover.

 

AirOnBoard....you want the Toyota small switches.

 

Got the rear bumper mounted and chopped some bed side off and also mounted a couple of lights.

 

What front bumper is that?

 

Badass cut! It looks ready now!

 

I have always liked the look of a chase rack on a truck. It makes the truck look more like an off road racing kinda truck. Yet, there are many out there available for the 2.5 Gen Tundras from Go Rhino, Backrack, to universal ones on Amazon even a Trailhunter replica. But there is one chase rack I have seen, not available or made for the Tundra. The Stealth Chase Rack from ADD; Addictive Desert Design. I even called up the company to ask if there can be a custom one made which i was willing to pay. He simply said, “at the moment, the Tundra is not on the list for that product. Only Chevy, Ford, and Dodge right now.”

I said screw it. Took some measurements of the Tundra’s bed. Compared it to the other three trucks. The Chevy/GMC rack was the closest one slightly wider. With this, at least I have room to custom fit it rather than be short. Pulled the trigger and bought it, not knowing what I might run into.

Product arrived and realize the side panel has a welded piece that must go into the pocket stake up front for the Chevy model. This wasn’t gonna work for the Tundra so I cut it off. Once cut, the side panel actually lined up to the bed rails so bolt on was a breeze. With the side panel bolts loose, the top piece slit in perfectly. After some adjustment, all bolts torque down and snugged.

Here it is:


Adjust it to sit flush with the bed.


Like how it contours the shape of the truck.



Top piece sits at cab height.


Does not block third brake light.



New bracket helps sit the SS2 light 1” higher for better visibility. (Works as a turn, reverse, and brake light)


More outdoor pictures to come…..

 

https://www.mobilistics.com/nostart-remote-controlled-intelligent-relay-w-remote-starter-fuel-pump-immobilizer/


For looking to do this mod there is a remote version that I run. Have had zero issues so far. Even more discreet.

 

Awesome you made it work. Send them your pics lol

 

Playing with the idea of doing this to the cab (minus the roof, that seems like a PIA ) curious about your thoughts after living with it for a few.

 

I rotated my tires. I miss having access to a lift.

 

Only had time to do the rear wall this weekend. Gonna take a personal day or 2 off work this week to do the 4 doors (inside and out) and then I'll really have feedback.

I'd suggest you make sure you have ample time, go slow and be detail oriented. While I did get a roller that came highly recommended, I hardly used it due to the surface not being flat, nor easy to get to. What I found worked best was a rag over my finger. This protected it from any cuts from the aluminum. I'd also suggest you determine a 'pattern'. What I mean by that is the surface your putting the sound deadening on isn't flat, and the material has to conform to it. So I went with top left to bottom right, working across the top first. I'd stick the top left to where it was going to go, then work across the top of the single panel of material, pushing down to form the area. The reason for this is that on a flat surface it'll simply lay down, but with so many variations in the surface, the sheets right side won't end up where you want it. So I'd peel the backing down about an inch, stick the top left corner where I want it, work across that top inch of exposed material, pushing down and forming it. Once I got it all the way across, then I'd peel down another couple of inches, work down that panel of material until I got to the bottom of it. Then on the next sheet of material, I'd do the same thing, overlying the first by about 1/4 inch or so and repeat.

Hope that makes sense, if not LMK and I'll try to explain better/get images. It's not at all hard to do, just tedious and time consuming is all.

Edit to add, I'm also only doing the back wall, and doors. Skipping the pillars, floor and roof.

 

Finally got it done with multiple stages since time is limited.

1. Changed coils from TRD PRO fox stock to Eibach.
2. Installed 1.5 shackles from Apex off road at the back to level.
3. Installed the rock warrior wheels and KMC center cap with TRD covering.
4. Added washers for shims for the front bumper and removed the front splash guard.

 

Been there. Great improvement.

 

What made you decide to cover the panel which would require cutting the sound deadening later on to service the rear window? I debated back and forth on the merits of leaving it just as you did, but opted for the inner wall, then the panel itself to simplify the ease down the road. I do plan on keeping this pig a while. Not sure one way is right, or wrong. Just curious your personal feedback.

Can't wait to get the doors done this week too! And get this tedious project behind me.

 

Same for me, and the results were amazing.

I tried to embed a YouTube video, but gave up, as the forum kept blocking it. Here is the link. Taps 1 and 3 are on a door with no deadening, 2 and 4 on a deadened door.

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/LpJoo1Tgc7A

 

I'd say that's quite a difference! Did you do the 'inner' aka door skin part as well as the shell where all of the panel mounting clips go? What about the window opening where the moisture barrier goes?

I'm debating on the moisture barrier part. My panels from Kilmat are smaller in size than I'd anticipated or saw on the Taco Tunes YT video, I'm not sure one full panel will cover that hole. So should I stick 2-3 together and cover the hole? Or just do the shell part, leave that open from sound deadening, and then reinstall the moisture barrier?

 

I never use that rear window. I have some stickers on it that I don't want to scrape off, have a rear facing security camera mounted, and, living in Texas, I rarely have any windows down. And I'll be keeping my pig for awhile as well. One of the reasons I did the deadening was that I installed an OEM Audio+ setup in my Tundra, so wanted the music to be even better.

 

Same here, James with tech12volts. JBL DSP amp upgrade, as well as James's sub/box. I'm not looking for huge gains, just a little bit. If the road noise goes down a few db's as well, great!

 

I went with Noico, not Kilmat. Basically the same stuff, for less money. Here are some pics of the doors.



This shows the stock Toyota "deadening". Don't laugh. Okay, go ahead and laugh. Not only is it tiny, not even all of it was stuck to the door.



Door was deadened by applying material inside the door, (like that massive piece Toyota put on...), as well as this placement where the moisture barrier had been.



Front driver's door, ready to slap the panel back on. That is still the stock Toyota door speaker, I put the OEM Audio+ stuff in about a month later.

 

Well, I didn't use a gauge, but my ears were happy. I helped a buddy do the deadening on his Taco, which he wanted to take care of as soon as he saw the door thump video.

 

Plasti dipped my wheels black & glossifier layer over that. And installed 5100’s at top setting. Truck has 1” rear maxtrac shackles & about 2” front 5100 lift. Love how she’s sitting. 315/70/17

 

How are you able to purchase? It doesn't let me without being in an Aussie providence.

 

I'd previously seen that deadening that Toyota added and also laughed. That's nothing. Did you end up peeling it off or applying right over it?

And thanks for the pics of the panels of material and how you applied over the hole for servicing the window track/regulator.

 

After completing the project above, I finally got around to making a janky filler for the hole that the camera left. Plenty of silicone adhesive sealant, and it hasnt budged in a few weeks.



I also got the box for the 2 stage regulator mounted under the truck. Inexpensive HF box, and installed some rivnuts to the bed, and I'll be able to access the regulator and connection if I need to replace any of them. All off the shelf stuff, so should be able to source parts from any ol hardware store.