Transmission solenoids?

Hello! New here, officially but have been referencing for a while. Here’s my deal:
2012 4.6L throws a CEL for trans control solenoid (unspecified), but no symptoms. Cleared the code, CEL threw again… then tested all solenoids at battery, replaced filter and fluid. Now, no code but new issues, jumping into drive when moving out of park (sometimes), consistently hard downshifting from 2nd to 3rd, and delayed/long shifting (and kinda hard) from 4th to 5th.
I used valvoline Max that is good with WS. Have added lube guard with no change.
Thoughts?

 

How dis you test the solenoids? You must measure resistance AND apply 12v while observing a sharp clicking sound as they activate. The SLT is even harder to test, as it is lineaer, not on/off

 

How many miles? Possibly the transmission was slipping a little bit and that throws a solenoid code sometimes. Then when you changed the fluid it’s not full of debris so now slips more. You may want to check the fluid level and overfill a bit beyond the check level. Then if that doesn’t work then consider getting a valve body rebuild or diy rebuild kit yourself. If that doesn’t work then the torque converter and or some clutches may need to be replaced.

 

I tested solenoids at the battery with wires and heard click on all of them and I tested other solenoid type things in there (9 total I think).
136k miles.
Any thoughts on Toyota WS over the valvoline?
Do you guys know which solenoid and other solenoid things do/correspond to?

 

I would go Toyota WS generally. IPT transmission has several YouTube videos on valve bodys which I believe has the full explanation of which solenoid does what.

I would doubt the solenoids themselves are the issue, it’s likely some of your solenoid valve bodys are worn out (losing line pressure) and/or the clutches the solenoids operate are worn out (slip). The ecu throws a code for the solenoid but it’s due to seeing slip or low line pressure.

 

i use maxlife. some experts have said that it has a much better additive package and it handles the heat better than WS. there are resources on the internet that will tell you what each solenoid controls. Need to do some searching to find it. You trans is an AB60E/F, asuuming you have the 5.7. I can try to find mine, but they are out there. Voltage/click test is good, but you must measure the Ohms for each ona also. This is key when dealing with intermitent issues. Those same resources I mentioned will provide the acceptable range. The ranges are different for the on/off and linear solenoids.

 

I have the 4.6
I will look for the ohms scales. Was thinking of just replacing all 9 from rock auto but that is pricey. But if I test and find one or two bad, they are 200+ at auto store …. Vs putting bad ones back in and waiting for order… idk

 

I WOULD NOT throw parts at it, especially since they are pricey and may not resolve the issue...

When I had a solenoid issue w/my '08, codes were specific to the particular shift solenoid in question, so you may want to try a different scanner.

Also, you made no mention of mileage on the unit, whether you did drain and fill or a 'flush' on trans at this service, and hisotry on previous trans service... while that info is not abosolutely criticial, it can lend some credibility to the change in issues after the service. The transmissions in these rigs DO NOT like to be 'flushed' particularly if the trans is high mileage and hasn't seen regular service...

Finally, regarding fluid type...

I don't have experience w/Valvoline Maxlife. However, I would be suspicious of the effectiveness a product that claims to be a jack of all trades. It is my understanding that the Valvoline claims to be good for/compatible w/ OE WS, Dex ii, iii, 4, 5, 6, etc... These are all different fluids, w/different properties, different viscosities, different boiling points, different detergents, etc. So, how can one product work optimally in all applicaitions

 

You can test the ohm resistance from the transmission harness male plug. I would use Idemitsu /AISN /Toyota WS fluid.

 

REplying to Tripleconpanna and MDl.

2012 4.6 with 136k miles. I tested all 9 of the solenoids at the battery, changed the filter and gasket, did a fluid fill, drove it a bit, topped it off and leveled it out again. It hasnt thrown a code again. Also, the shifting issues were not there prior to checking solenoids and swapping fluid. The first code (which I tested with three different readers) said that it was the transmission control soleniod. Nothing else.

Good to know that I can test incoming ohms from male connector, didn't think of that. Do I need to have the key turned for that to work?

I saw a video posted on a different thread on here that shows how to completely swap the fluid by filling with a tube from engine bay and draining at radiator with another tube. I plan to do that when I go in next. Sounds like I should just grab the Toyota WS.

Currently, I am 300 miles into a round of Mechanic RX, which many guys on here recommended I do.

So, after talking to you guys, my plan is to test the solenoids ohms, purchase replacements if necessary, buy the toyota WS and do the full swap, and test drive it. If I have to order replacements, how do you guys feel about catching and reusing the toyota WS? I guess it will only be around 3 quarts in the pan, but that stuff is ridiculously expensive.

 

Some people run Maxlife atf oil without any issues. But that's your call what to run. I usually find the Idemitsu for $8-10 at Napa well its gone up since my last change.
Ohm test with ignition off as the harness as unplugged. It's a 50/50 chance for a solenoid change to fix it. Someti.es the valve body is worn and not holding pressure for the solenoid.
I run a tube down by the rear driver side by the brake master cylinder for filling. If you do a clean catch you can reuse it but again up to you. Use Rostra brand solenoids. They make a lot of oem ones for some models. Rock auto has good prices.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TKax3xhyU3A

 

Thanks a ton! That is helpful...
I looked into valve body replacement, it seems somewhat straight forward, as long as I get everything back in right. Thoughts on that process?

 

If you had a leaky valve body it would cause the clutch packs in transmission to slip.
Did you fill correctly? Try adding a 1/2 quart of fluid and take it for a spin. Some don't fill it correctly or let too much out.

 

When testing the solenoids they have to be a certain temp to get an accurate ohm reading

 

"Clutch packs"?
I will add some more fluid. I got it to temp and checked fluid on a level surface. Videos I have watched say to close the check valve once the stream starts breaking up. Sound right?

As for the solenoid temp, how could that be accomplished? Surely they will be cool by the time I get the pan off and pulling them...

 

Yes it’s not overly challenging, make sure you have the torque for all the bolts; but as someone who has had a similar issue I wouldn’t throw parts at it just yet… I had a solenoid code pop up (P2757) and it was actually my torque converter that was bad again (after testing all the solenoids, fluid changes, valve body zip kit etc)

 

If you have just driven it, then no, but if it’s sat over night it’ll be the right temp (as long as it’s not like 30° there)

The clutch pack is the set of clutches above the valve body that are essentially your gears, they grab each other according to what gear you’re supposed to be in

 

Oh! Gotcha, they can't be hot.
Something I should have mentioned, I can basically bypass any shifting issues by using the Tiptronic. Does that mean anything? Or just how it works?

As of right now, the plan is first to add some more fluid and see what happens. Next, to test the solenoid ohms and to swap the fluid with Toyota WS.

 

Yes. Thanks for pointing it out. Not sure his location...
68deg F

 

I am in florida, so I will need to do this soon, which is the plan anyway.

Does the tiptronic thing mean anything?
Also, what about the hard jumping from park to drive?

 

The hard jumping could mean a couple things; take this with a grain of salt as we don’t rebuild or open trannys at the shop, everything ive learned is from my own research trying to fix my problem

but anywho the hard shifting could be high line pressure; once I threw the zip kit in my valve body it made my truck lurch when going from park to reverse or drive to reverse because of the increase in line pressure; also caused a very harsh shift from 3-4 (that being said that showed me that my valve body wasn’t worn out and I removed the zip kit)

do you have the actual P trouble code that you read on the scanner? Right now we’re all just shooting in the dark till we get that info

 

P2714. Auto store told me it was the transmission control solenoid... When I did it on my buddies and googled the code I got, "Pressure Control Solenoid D Performance/Stuck Off"

 

When I first started working on it, I was told that it was likely not the solenoid and something else was triggering that... that's why I tested them at the battery, and I was able to confirm each fired but I couldn't tell you if they worked correctly/consistently.

 

Ohming them out won’t hurt at all, I’ll pull up the diagnostic tree and send it here so you can see what’s recommended for testing

 

Attached is a PDF of the P2714, like I thought earlier there is a whole bunch of other things that can cause this code other than just the main D solenoid. PDF will walk you through the troubleshooting procedure for everything that could be causing this

 

Much appreciated. If I am reading this pdf correctly, it looks like I start with ohming and testing the D solenoid along with all the others and a complete fluid swap. If that doesn't do it, I am looking at the torque converter and/or valve body.

I am hopeful that it is the D solenoid, given the issues with the pressure and the pasuing and lurching into drive. The gear configurations for one of the other errors doesn't seem to match my experience as I am able to cycle through all 6 gears normally (well, mostly).

 

I’ll read through it and see; when you say mostly what other problem? Slipping between 3 and 4?

 

so problem with only ohming is that just because it ohms out of range, doesn't mean its necessarily bad (IE: one of my shift solenoids ohmed slightly above the range but still functions perfectly, even the new solenoid I ordered from Toyota directly ohmed slightly out of range when installed.

Techstream is gonna be big in legitimately diagnosing this by allowing you to narrow down your problem through the testing procedures. You can order a cheap USB to OBDII cable on Amazon for like $30 and the techstream software is free (several how to's on here)

Also techstream will tell you the specific breakdown of the code: Stuck on / Stuck off

 

With intermittent issues you really need the ohm test AND the click test. You apply 12 volts briefly and observe the sound it makes on both the energize and de-energize phase. You are looking for a sharp metallic click. If slow or dull, the solenoid is wearing out or gummed up.

 

Good morning,
Update, after some more diagnostics using tiptronic on my way to and from work, according to the instructions in the pdf. The issues are
4-5-6. Hard downshift from 5-4 and delayed somewhat chunky upshift from 5-6. If I leave the tiptronic in 4th gear, I have no issues, and with traffic, I don't need to go into 5th often (other than the hard jump into drive).

I will look into the techstream thing.