Audio System…please share your set up

I have the urge to upgrade my stock JBL audio to after market speakers, amps and subs for my ‘25 TRD PRO. Please share your aftermarket add ons and if your truck is hybrid or not. I want to use your experience to save me sometime in planning for a system. Thanks in advance.

 

Not specific to a 3rd gen, but if I were starting g from scratch, I’d only go with a quality DSP multi-channel amp. You can keep your OEM head unit and fix the signal with the DSP.

Your budget will dictate where you go from there, but this is the time to decide if you’re wanting to have an active or passive front stage.

Any of the nicer DSP amps will have preamp outputs for a sub amp.

In the end, you can have a really great sounding system with just two amplifiers mounted somewhere. You just need a laptop and someone who can tune it!

 

Ahhh, since I followed your thread and see you have a JBL system, you need to read the audio threads for people who have JBL systems since you HAVE to use the JBL amp - you can't just replace it and simply replacing speakers is something you need to research. I didn't have a JBL system and it sounded like total crap.

 

I’m not a 3rd Gen guy, but are you not able to take the signal from the head unit and feed it into a LOC or DSP? You just need the signal. I can’t figure out why you would be required to utilize the JBL amp just because you have a JBL head unit and speakers.

It’s just the signal you need. Let the DSP fix the signal so it sounds good…. Then use whatever speakers you like!

Heck, the stock speakers might even sound decent with a good system feeding them…

 

I plan on getting the signal with a PAC Audio Amp Pro integration unit. I was wondering if I should disconnect the factory JBL amp or keep it connected to power the 3.5" speakers in the dash.

BTW, i have not used a DSP before and did not plan on using it as I plan on using passive crossover networks, etc. How crucial is it to have a good sound with or without DSP. I do not think i have enough skills to tune the sound with DSP.

 

There’s a really good chance that you’re going to have a neutered signal if you can’t get it corrected. I’m not sure what the PAC device you’re looking at does. I just glanced through the PDF directions and it looks pretty simple. For $350+, I’m wondering if an Audio Control LC7I would have more benefit since you’ll be able to add in the low frequencies that Toyota typically cuts out at higher volumes.

We just put in an LC7I with a 4-channel amp that 50w x 4 and a 800w monoblock amp in my daughter’s new ‘25 Corolla Hybrid. Stock head unit. Stock speakers in all doors. A pair of 8” subs I had left over in a new box off Amazon. Sounds 5,000 times better than stock. We could see with our meters than Toyota was cutting out low frequencies once the volume exceeded “36” on the volume knob.

The difference was bigger than I expected. She’ll eventually replace the front door speakers and maybe go with a single 12 in a fitted enclosure, but for the ~$500 we spent, it’s pretty amazing…

I did find the LC7I on FBMP for $125 and the Kicker CXA-800.1 for $120. The 4-channel amp is a basic little Jensen that you’d think would be crap. It punches well above its weight class and was only $100.

 

Since I didn't see anyone touch this yet, I'll tackle it.
On a NON-JBL 3rd gen system, yes, no problem. Signal comes from the h/u directly.
The JBL amp adds an additional layer of complexity because it performs volume and balance/fade functions internally. WHY the system was designed this way, I have no idea.
There are 3rd Gen JBL specific audio threads in this subforum that address the issue much better than I can.
You can't take it out of the loop completely. You need to use the outputs of the JBL amp to either a DSP or LOC that has "bass restoration" circuitry built in and using that signal for your outboard amplification.

 

You won't be disconnecting the JBL amp. It needs to stay in the loop and the PAC does this if I'm reading the info on it correctly.

 

Does anyone know if the PAC audio unit takes the signal pre-JBL amp? The TT harness claims to use the pre-amp signal.

 

I had to address both voltage and signal cleaning on my non-JBL 3rd gen set up using a LCi-7 and my vxi800 has a built in DSP. Standalone units work well too but I wanted to simplify devices as much as possible for cleaner install

 

I would also like to know if PAC takes the signal before the amp or after. I did see that you need to connect the PAC unit behind the radio. The unit that Taco Tunes offers is connected at the amp under the seat. Could it be that there are two ways to get a signal to your aftermarket amp?

 

after researching the PAC Audio on some youtube videos, I believe it takes signal before the AMP.

 

I wonder if the Taco Tunes unit also gets it before the amp. If it does, it makes more sense to use that setup so that you can just access it at the amp and save the trouble of connecting to the radio. And, if it is true that they are getting signal before the amp, then you should be able to disconnect the JBL amp, right?

 

Non-hybrid Platinum with JBL here.

I only upgraded the sub with taco tunes harnesses. You wont have much room for amps/sub box with a hybrid, so plan on running the smallest footprint amps you can get if youre going dual subs. Single sub should leave you plenty of room but that means going custom box. I reached out to 3 of my trusted box guys and showed them what these boxes looked like...none of them were interested in building me something.

 

Yeah, building boxes that are a perfect fit can be a headache. I would also just buy a prefabbed box if it is available. Taco Tunes sells them but they are a bit high. Might have to just bite the bullet though.

 

There was an advertisement for the JL Audio stealthbox for the 22+ Tundra. However, I could not make out where it would fit. They have one that fits under the 22+ rear seats but the advertisement show that it has a non-uniform/curvy shape to it.

 

Yeah, I did see that they had one that goes under the seat, but obviously that is for the non hybrids.

 

Goes under rear seat...wont work on hybrids. You are stuck with behind the seat setup. If you do remove the JBL amp, then you might have some room under the driver seat for an amp, but not much since you have power seats. You will likely have to mount your amps on the back wall somewhere.

 

2025 Limited
Still working some kinks out with radio issue that happened after install
Did a full interior removal, installed sound deadening from floor to ceiling, rear wall, pillars, doors and door trim.. ran 0 gauge full copper for pier on right side from battery to rear seat/wall. Ground to frame, all audio cables on left side to rear seat, reinstalled carpet. Built sub enclosure for three 10” subs down firing (sealed) amp rack on back wall, installed salt lithium battery next to sub enclosure under rear seat, installed a Marconi dsp, Sony es 8 channel amp, and a Rockford Fosgate t1500.1 amp, fuse block and wire distribution on amp rack.
Rear doors have Memphis audio 6.5 components front doors and Memphis audio 6x9 components, dash Memphis audio 2.5” coax speakers

 

I am pretty sure it does. It installs behind the head unit so it has to be before the JBL amp. The taco tunes Jarvis install at the amplifier. I think it was designed that way for wiring purposes.

 

Just started my system today. Just working on the sound deadening with CLD and Dynapad to keep things quiet!

 

A couple pics

 

wow, will be a nice set up. I assume you do not have a hybrid.

 

It is in fact a hybrid

 

nice...please document the whole process. I stay under 1000W total since I thought it was a limit with the hybrids. Are you planning to run full active set up?

 

Active front 3-way, 2-way passive rear fill. Running a wire for a center channel but no plans to utilize it at this time.

Under 1000W? I haven't heard anything about staying under 1000 watts. I have seen a few different Hybrid installs with over 1000W. Now that being said, mine will be pulling around 2400 watts max. Guess I will find out if there is in fact an issue.

 

Couple more pics

 

Haven’t even started the wiring yet. Just focused on getting the floors deadened which was quite the project. I was able to complete this in about 14 hours this weekend. Next up will be to work on all the doors with CLD as well as dampening material from ResoNix. By then I should have my sub box and can start wiring and laying out my amp rack. Still going to be awhile before everything is installed and functional.

 

which shallow subs are you using? Which subbox and processor? Also, what will you be using to pull low level signal of the head unit? I am interested in seeing if you have to adjust the signal much. I am still in the process of tuning without the processor. I might have to add a processor or change out the amp with a processor.

 

those are morel subs in his pics. Are you not happy with the sub's performance?