1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

i dont wanna bolt it down.

but then…

 

Definitely grease the driveshaft first before you just replace the wheel bearings.

I had a U-joint go bad, and it made more of a groaning noise than a squeak, but at the same frequency. Only when reversing too. I removed the driveshaft- and the U-joint was so tight/seized that I couldn't move it with my hands at all.

To diagnose my issue I laid on a skateboard and had my brother slowly reverse the truck while I rolled next to it. It was definitely happening at the same speed that the driveshaft was turning. Your noise sounds a bit different but in your video it was happening at the same frequency as my noise.

Edit: I posted a video of how my U joint sounded, with the driveshaft off the truck.
https://youtube.com/shorts/6C8mYeaHYoc?si=IJUrvtrRekUcOmqx

 

Ready to get the Camry back up and running. Just waiting on this 30mm socket to come in before I can start.

 

Game changer! Who's the sweet fourth gen friend? V8?

 

Some pretty cool portable options now days, too.

 

I triple dog dare ya!

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uIsgSQvsRj8

 

we do things the hard way, or we dont do em at all.

 

When I buy a house with a garage I’ll just dig a hole and drive over it if I have no space.

 

Oil pit. Sweeet.
Put a couple 4x6's across the hole, with a floor jack on top, when you need to remove the tires.

 

Sketchy. I like it.

 

We are expecting a deep cold snap for the next three days. below zero and windy, brother ewwww.

So I got a good start on this today. Still need an intake vent, to heat wrap the exhaust, mount the fuel pump, and wire it up. Should be a quick job in the morning. Peeling the damn stickers off is going to be the worst part.

 

I wouldn't mind having one of those QuickJacks, they are apparently awesome. But dammit if those people aren't VERY proud of their invention.

Damn. I don't even know if I have a 30mm. I think my metric impact set goes up to 27 or 28, and I know I have a 34, 35, 36 maybe because I flipped thru them when I installed my lift.

 

Working on modifying a limited center console to work with the manual transmission. I need about 1/2" more room for second gear to not hit. Anyone have any ideas?

Thinking about maybe going the URD short throw shifter route.

 

I loved the URD short throw shifter on my T100. Do it. While you're in there, replace the bushings if you haven't already. Mine were disintegrating and caused it to pop out of first.

Sweet set up you're working on, too. Hopefully the URD gives you that extra clearance you need. It'll get it closer, if nothing else. Then maybe just trim a tiny bit of the console, if necessary.

 

Are there any linkages to adjust in the manual? Is that a r150?

 

Awesome! That's great to hear I'll have to grab it. I just pulled the shifter out two weeks ago before work trip and remade gaskets. Not super looking forward to pulling the carpet all the way back out to get access again but sounds like I'll have to.

None that I can see but I've never really messed with a shifter before outside of cleaning/gaskets. It's a r150f.

 

Yes it's an R150. IIRC, just pop off the boots and unbolt the shifter, use RVG or whatever that gasket shit is called on the transmission and the spacer, clamp the ball adapter to the shifter ball, screw it in tight with lock tight, lube everything, replace the bushings, bolt in the adapter, put it back together. It's about one or two beer job. 30 mins if you're good.

 

The only unfortunate part of the job is to access the shifter the carpet has to come out. The boots are all sandwiched by a metal plate that's lays underneath the carpet. So either cut all of that carpet area out or pull it first. Truthfully if I knew this center console would work I wouldn't mind cutting the carpet but I want to hedge my bets just Incase.

 

Can the shift lever be ‘clocked’?



as it sits how close is 1st gear to the dash?

 

I'm not sure I follow what you mean by "clocking" the lever.

Front space is no issue, it's only rear left that wants to push the console back and left to make room. All the other gears have space. Honestly if the lever itself wasn't so thick at the base it would be fine.

 

It's just a straight stick, right? Or is there a curve under the boot?
I wonder if something shaped different would help, without hitting somewhere else.



I think Casey means "can you turn the stick (or clock it) to change the way it points."


See how these are "clocked" to the sides, at 3 o'clock and 8 o'clock vs to the rear (6 o'clock)?

That pic has got to be a first gen Tacoma or 4Runner

 

Like if the circled piece is what aligns the lever, could it be rotated?

 

It's most similar to the left but even then not exactly. The lever never comes back into true with itself from top to bottom. It's almost a dog leg and then up to the main shaft.




Not the best photos I can get at the moment, once I can get the shifter pulled all the way out again tomorrow I can put it on the bench to really show the angle. The bend is absolutely what's causing it to come in contact with the sides of the console.

Even still if only the black portion of the shaft was slimmer it would clear the sides. Same with the 4wd selector. That one drags by about 1/8" going over from 4hi - N.

 

In theory I don't see why not. I guess when I had it pulled out I assumed the pin between the housing and the shaft was a solid wrist pin all the way through. But maybe it's just more of a detent.

 

I’m just curious. I’m gonna want a manual eventually.

 

Got a file?

 

But don't you have the tiny console and want a bench seat anyways?

 

I’m just spitballin ideas. I’ve messed with civic & svt focus shifters, but they have linkage. Who knows, i might want one of those big rig ape hanger shifters.

 

We still need to hit some junk yards around Houston before it gets too hot.

 

Well if you ever need one, I got you.