General Supercharger Thread

yeah was hoping to get them put in next month

 

Overnight from Japan?

 

found another place same kit from summit, $100 more and says guarantee in stock
fucking summit

 

Just carrier and pinion bearings are $170 shipped UPS but didn't look at air freight. Expected 30-84 days.
I know it at least takes 4 weeks on some orders.

 

Sorry F&F joke...

 

I know...its a joke son..haha I had the info saved on Amamaya and just ran it to see.

 

does the short trim between bank 1 & 2 try to balance themselves when it does that?

Question for you guys with the 750cc (or should I say 700cc.....) and the 340lph, I was moving the truck around the house to prep for the snow storm, it's freezing today, so cold start, parked it, turned it off, realized I was blocking path of the blower, jumped in and try to start, would crank but wouldn't start, this happen twice.

Turn ignition off fully, then turn it back on, then hit start, start up.

Does this sound acceptable? this never happened with the stock magnuson injectors/pump.

 

I was concerned when you replied so cleanly. At my work it's not unreasonable to overnight parts from who knows where, so I don't think anything of it.

 

This one?

$185 AEM (30-4110) UEGO Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge

https://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-4110-UEGO-Ratio-Gauge/dp/B00N3VGPYS?th=1

 

I think it's still learning, I'm maybe on the 60th start at most, no surging today. As far as no start, I haven't seen that, I'd chalk it up to anomaly.

 

It has happened on a few DW injectors and of course the Five-O 750's. I would say an anomoly but easy to see on subsequent starts varying the time between each.

 

That one only reads down to 11 afr. You want it to go down to at least 10. But lower for diagnostics.
I have an older AEM so not sure of the many changes and obd connectivity.
Possibly this
https://www.aemelectronics.com/prod...deband_gauges/x_series_wideband/parts/30-0300

@armyoffoo ?

 

Yea this was like cold start, then shut off literately 10s, then jump back into truck try to start, but it did start after I cycle ignition, so I chuck it up as "normal", kinda reminds me on big carbs on cold starts.

These trucks are ladies, my truck always had bit surging since new, even on the day I picked up the truck from dealer, but one tuning file Sniv gave it idled PERFECT, the short term trims didn't fluctuate, we tried more improvement but then the truck almost bricked itself, and the idle changed a bit, I think I may try to disconnect the battery and see if I can get that perfect idle back.

 

I have that one. It does read down to 10.0 on the digital readout. It’s a fine gauge, id consider an AEM X series if buying again though.

 

Is this a keyless or keyed truck?

My keyed truck will get pissy if I leave the key in the ignition after shutting it down.

I go to start it later and it just cranks. I pull the key, switch it over and insert and it starts right up. I found out later it's an anti theft deterant and it's designed on purpose. I just think some immobilizers are more sensitive than others.

 

AEM X-series is the way.

 

Edit,

My problem there is then I need a 3rd gauge for boost

$188 AEM 30-0300 X-Series Wideband UEGO AFR Sensor Controller Gauge

https://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-0300-Wideband-Sensor-Controller/dp/B0184TSI84?crid=VJETOW77MQYJ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.T8FEnHqAJRIfEl4rjX-0Jk_sBu9TyUUsGOcYYjabKtuP_kUDhPsyg_uiez4dK6-8lLuMm65QjZ9mRGY9jaLyojMWttyzvR3tkb-EDcXqqEDR3QrUJQBtgVdmVGd-JI9f0xnPnJUMesZwqeoOggLXqpgo4BXhZpfg4yJTxvEd17RBIFb7TEcgBXXSgs5RPZR26m8SEDaPP0sYXW315pxZxTVlsugDhl2J7L424fFdUkc.6UVhDfiAxO_MQB9EDuIBnVW9F0ac3Gb7Sq6SgbeV4Wo&dib_tag=se&keywords=AEM+X-Series+Wideband+UEGO+AFR+Gauge+Kit&qid=1739404005&sprefix=aem+x-series+wideband+uego+afr+gauge+kit%2Caps%2C276&sr=8-1

 

I know Mythbusters did an episode on this a while back but I can't find the video. Lots of air flowing over the top of the hood and down into the bed. Tailgate up (not really relevant to race rigs) creates this circular vortex of air behind the rear window. tailgate down drags the air down for less efficiency. something like that...

Fun fact, certain data centers I've worked at utilize this same principal to move air further down the isle to reach the end of the row of servers (slab floor data centers)

 

It was a shame AEM stopped making the dual afr/boost gauge. I like it and it also data logs rpm afr and boost and has external triggers if needed.

 

My truck doesn't seem to respond well to being cold started, shut down cold, then restarted. Once things are up to temp shutdown/restarts are fine.

 

Keyless, I'll keep an eye.

Thank you for confirming, I'll worry less lol.

 

I have these little 'fins' on my side view mirror caps and on the sides of my taillights. I'm assuming engineers figured out how to mitgate any loss of efficiency by adding those little pieces to my Tundra

 

Anybody know what stuff to mess with in HPT to make the downshifts less jerky when coasting to a stop?

 

I did the cold start then shut off then wouldn’t start thing a few days ago. I accidentally turned it off in Reverse, switched to Park as I didn’t mean to turn off (morning NOS/vtech hadn’t hit yet), then tried to turn on immediately and it was a “kinda” turn over but no start. Pulled the key got out, got back in and it fired up, weird!

I had to pull two delivery trucks out of my driveway (cold starts at 20f) and the truck did great. Hilarious to drag 10k lb trucks around like a child kicking and screaming up an incline.

 

I believe there is an idle/coast downshift map that youd want to look at as well as the (low load portion) downshift maps on the transmission tabs. But Sniv knows best, could be other things like updating your actual wheel diameter, etc. Im afraid to touch the those maps too much, stock TRD shifts seem to be working well.

 

Under trans-torque management-downshift. You can increase the amount of torque reduction at a given rpm. It has been my understanding to also adjust the ignition efficiency/ inverse to pull timing. You can adjust and see the torque reduction and see if its harsh when down shifting. If it's only a little reduction you can probably get away without adjusting ign efficiency. Mine is not too bad after increasing air load for my larger TB and never bothered with it. Hopefully @snivilous or @TurboKits or @texoma can chime in with a little education...which I'd really like ato have some hpt schooling.

 

2014+ have the "fins" +.00003 mpg

lol

 

I'll take a look Sniv has messed with the upshift tq reduction and I've played with the upshift shift points, but I never had a need to change the downshifts

It's funny I never really had any complaints with the coasting/downshifts, but the 5.29s made the engine braking a lot more powerful. Wasn't expecting that.

 

What’s a good fuel line removal tool?