General Supercharger Thread

Looks like yours were FID725's, where they sold me FID700's as "750cc"

 

This would piss me off to no end!

I'd want to know what work was done in the wire harness. Soldering wires together is not rocket science, but knowing which wires were fixed would be very important for future issues.

Color me "not satisfied".

 

I'm not satisfied, not happy about them but happy to have the truck back. Regardless of what is wrong, I'm not taking it back to them.

 

No one makes these. I came up with a concept for my 2650 and reached out to a company that makes custom badges and metal tags. These would be a “one off” custom order.

 

The volume was a bit low but seemed ok.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ztS_pp2OdFk

 

Just put my last minute order in with @Cruisers & Co. thanks for the group buy!

 

If it works out, mind shoot me their contact? would love to get one made for 1900.

Thanks for finding that, makes sense now.

 

I'm happy to share the info, but it was going to cost me $400 to have 2 made for my supercharger. They charge you for how many could be made from a standard sheet of aluminum. So, they would be 2 for $400 or 10X for $400. So of course it would make more sense to order 10X but I'm not sure if I want them that bad.

There are several companies that provide this kind of service. The one I chose was Texas Nameplate. I just sent them an email and they asked a bunch of questions. I sent them the picture and dimensions of my existing plate and a concept of what I wanted mine to look like and they sent me a quote.

https://www.nameplate.com/

 

Sniv's first tune felt great! Tree feels significantly faster, I'm thinking my motor was ill for some time. Maybe that's why I was getting 5mpg?

 

How is injector duty cycle? Still unusually low?

 

Dunno, Sniv?

Duty cycle of unusually low size lol

https://youtu.be/Nv9CkjkOyzo?feature=shared

 

Glad its getting where it should be and a new tune!

 

He said it's good & told me not to fuck with it lol

Here's duty cycle...

Yea, 65% for that last one.

 

Just curious of any ideas on extending the pickup on the ab60 filter with the deeper pan? I know it was brought up by @Jowett and @armyoffoo a while back. I'll be getting a new filter and was looking way I could extend attach old pickup to extend it a bit further. Or is it even worth the effort...

 

I won’t be dropping my PML pan to service the trans/install Sonnax parts until the springtime. At that point, I will design a lower pick up. Either extend a tune down off the stock filter location, or lower the complete filter. Will it make a difference? It will certainly reduce any chance of the pump sucking air. A wet sump with pick up anywhere but the lowest point is a crime.

 

That is slightly on the expensive side, I'll check if that size fits 1900s, or with minimal work, then may be we can see if anyone wants it too.

Mr. Sniv to the rescue, he just saved me too.

 

Valve body question. Does a built VB only come into play during gear changes, or does it also serve a purpose when putting a lot of power down through the meat of each gear?

 

Yes...both

 

As stated, yes. Extra clamping power for clutches while in gear.

 

You were running super rich. I’m surprised you didn’t roll any coal when you mash on the throttle.

 

I stayed under 1/2 until sniv fixed it, didn't want to break anything.

Thanks for your help!

 

My first green belt, is this normal?

 

The green wears off yes

 

whew, thanks

 

Getting close.

Yes, I hide everything under my desk at the office.

 

I was browsing some transmission filter offerings on Rock Auto. I noticed some of the filters have no pickup or vary short pickups compared to OEM filters. Could cause faulty pressure if it sucks air. Sawcthe wix one was almost flush with the body.

 

Just to get all the info in one place for the guys that are new to this game in regards to transmission valve body modification and flushing fluid:

Best to get the deep pan with the HD valve body from cruiser parts? I understand they recommend switching from WS fluid to Dex III, what is the proper way to flush out all the WS?

I have installed a external cooler on my '21 but have never changed the trans fluid and I'm at 62K miles with about 12K of those supercharged. I know to keep my trans happy the cooler should be pinned open all the time? I live in oklahoma and it gets hot as hell and then cold as the frozen tundra too. Is it okay to be pinned open at all times? I drive it to colorado to ski once a year as well.

Thanks for any input.

 

I'll bite first, but I'm not an expert. I'm sure others have better sources/information.

Pan: depends on use case and typical temps, but if money is no object, why not?

Fluid Type: still TBD. The recommendation for DexIII is new and goes against the grain. Everyone agrees heat kills and thicker fluid is typically better, but Toyota WS has been the only thing even other aftermarket transmission shops recommend. WAT is the first to bring the universal logic back to the table.

Fluid exchange: one of many methods, but having a cooler is insanely helpful. Choose your video of preference, but the process is essentially the same. https://youtu.be/fLVZSoKbyZ0

Pinning: Depends on use case, climate, etc. easy enough to do as required and not sure there is truly a right/wrong. @Mdl was able to removed the warming pick and thermostat completely and run a different, inline thermostat, which I personally like and will likely adopt. He can share the link to those details.

 

I'm in Phoenix where the coldest it has gotten since 2006 (that I'm aware of) was 32, that was for a short period of 3-5am. It is generally well over 60 & as much as 125. There are stretches when it is never under 90. I have been pinned since I got the truck.

Also, it's still running well, has an odd surging idle sporadically though, 650-1k ish but no codes

 

At a minimum a built valve body will extend the life of your transmission. Adopting a fluid drain and fill every 30k is advised. A lot of people have not needed the deep pan and just pinning the thermostat keeps the atf cooler. If it's too cold you can always unpin it. Pin in summer and unpinned in winter if needed.
The suggestion to run non-synthetic dex3 was mentioned for higher HP applications for extra clamping power. You get into a 1-2 year fluid change schedule. Most running a standard configuration supercharger/turbo would do well with a built valve body from IPT/Level10/Wholesale Automatic Transmission. They all use Sonnax and Transgo kits.