Clunking noise front end while driving: SOLVED

I’m hearing a clunking noise from the front end. The noise occurs when I first start driving the vehicle and/or make any sharp turns with the steering wheel. It seems to be coming from both sides and feels right under my feet while I’m driving.

I went under the truck today and noticed that something was loose. I’m not familiar with my truck or efficient enough at using the parts finder to see what it was and if this is normal. It has playing when moving side to side. The part in question is connected to the front diff.

I haven’t figured out how to upload a video so I just created a link. https://photos.app.goo.gl/yQE9gPHVs4faJfuN9

thanks,

 

A common cause of clunking is steering rack bushings, also sway bar bushings. In my case they looked good but replacing the bushings solved the problem.
It's normal for the axle to have considerable up-down play where it comes out of the differential (what you pictured). The OEM factory axles are so much better quality than aftermarket, so I would be hesitant about replacing them.

 

The part in question is the CV axle, and I don't think that play is abnormal. What I would be VERY concerned with are your lower ball joints. If you have no idea when these were changed and have no maintenance history, this is the FIRST thing to look at. A failure here is can be catastrophic. Like, you could die. There are videos out on how to test these, but by your post you don't seem too mechanically inclined? If you have a floor or bottle jack and a large pry bar, we can walk you through it. Better yet, I'll let Petr do it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nm5QBvrYN5U&t=2s
Seriously, test these or have them tested before you put another mile on your truck.

 

I do have a floor jack and I’ll find something to check the LBJ’s. Im also going to lub the drivetrain.

 

Thank you. I’m going to lubricant the driveshaft like @shifty` recommended in a previous post.

I checked both LBJ and I didn’t see any movement.

 

HOW did you test the LBJ though? Did you test with the LCA at full droop and the LCA under tension? What did you pry on to check for movement and how?

Did you check the rack for movement while grabbing either tire at roughly the door sill and pushing/pulling in out in an attempt to turn the wheel?

 

I used a pipe bar with both wheels off the ground and between the lbj and the bolt behind it and pulled up and down multiple times. I did not check if it had movement on the ground though.

No I didn’t do that test. Do you have a video link for that? Thanks

 

It's been covered multiple times.

These Lower ball joints are WEAR ITEMS.

this means you change them based on age/mileage.

people have "tested" their ball joints. And had them fail shortly after. Multiple posts by idiots in the first gen FB groups who think these are their pop's old ChEvby's or 98 f150.

To properly test you rack. Turn the truck on and have someone turn the wheel lock to lock while you crawl underneath and look at the rack. It shouldn't move. If your bushing are blown, you'll see your rack move and physically crush your bushings.

 

I don't have a link to that test, no. I've seen videos of people doing the best way to test ours where the LBJ is under tension, prying at the tire.

How I'd test LBJ has two considerations. First, whether it's an LBJ-over or LBJ-under setup. On our trucks, the LBJ sits under the LCA, which puts it under tension when the truck is sitting on the ground. Second, test with or without the full weight of the vehicle on the joint, i.e. whether the wheel is holding the corner weight of the vehicle. Joints will function differently depending.

As far as testing LBJ, the most effective test I've ever seen with LBJ-under setups like our 1st gens is as follows:

Jack up the truck at the frame, until (A) the LCA is fully extended and (B) the tire is 1" off the floor. Get a 2x4 or similar wood to use as leverage, put it in front of the tire. As you see in the picture below, get the longest prybar you can find, and lever the tire upward from center-tread, while observing the LBJ for signs of movement/play as you move the tire up/down roughly an inch. I do a variation of this with another jack under the LCA to bring things closer to ride height.

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Oh, and @Khunter0211

When I was getting my truck aligned at the shop, and the head tech had my truck on the Hunter rack which was steel and a thus a bit slippery, he was able to forcibly grab my tire, and push/pull at 3 and 9 o'clock (to effectively emulate turning the steering wheel) and I could visibly see my rack bushings move. You can also do this with both front wheels jacked up, have someone do that while you watch the rack bushings. If you see play/slop in the rack bushings - some give is normal with rubber bushings! - then it may show signs you should replace soon. This is also one way to figure out if your steering rack is what's contributing to a clunk.

 

Bought a pry bar and going to spend the rest of the night investigating. I’m going to use the pry under the tire technique and see if my wife and help me with checking the rack.

 

I tested the lbj with the wood and pry bar technique with no movement on both sides. Also with the truck up in the air, I placed the pry bar between the lca and the bolt behind it and no movement.
My Dad, the previous owner, had both inner and outer tie rods replaced recently.

While under the truck I did notice two things that are concerning. The lower strut bushing is not centered. And the sway bar end links looks worn, but this could be normal.

I was watching an episode with @toyotamaintenace on YT. He showed an episode where the lower strut bushing is pushed to the side and not centered. I’m thinking this is the cause of the clunking noise. Any thoughts?

 

That lower strut bushing in your pic was made differently...weaker in the earlier first gen Tundras. My 2000 Tundra had ones that looked like yours but they didn't clunk. I would replace them anyway...using Billstein 4600's.

 

If a bushing don't bushing. Things go clunk.

did you check the rack/rack bushings while your wife turned the wheel lock to lock?

 

Three things:

That swaybar link is overtightened on top. Tightened so hard the rubber bushing is literally folding over the lower washer. You need new swaybar bushings too, those are toast.

We need pics of the lower strut/shock bushings from the side so we can tell whether or not they're blown out which would absolutely cause clunking.

Clearly you can see metal on metal contact has been happening on the driver side, it just so happens where it appears you have direct metal on metal contact there happens to be a lot of rusty dust, I doubt it's a coincidence, but I also can't say it's the source of yoru clunk.

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Side view of strut.

 

I didn’t my wife with busy with our daughter.
What am I looking for while someone is turning the wheel actual movement in the rack side to side?

 

You will see the rack actually move around. It shouldn't.

 

Those bushings are done. Could be your problem, or at least part of it.

 

Can you just replace the bushings or the whole strut?

 

Whole strut. Even if you could, it wouldn't be worth the time.

 

Thanks.

Ok, based on others suggestions I will look into getting Bilstein 5100's or 4600's.

 

Both good choices. I have 5100s on mine and I like the ride. I especially like the adjustability of the 5100s. I had 4600s on a Taco that I used to own, and I liked the ride with them as well.

 

Ok good to know.

Any recommendations on an budget friendly impact wrench, I have Makita batteries.

I have regular size jack stands and they arent tall enough when I jack up the truck. Also has anyone bought taller jack stands for their truck or just used wood for a spacer?

 

With OEM rubber, you will see a little bit of movement.

 

I have two different sizes of jack stands. I think when you're referring to "regular size" you mean to say you have 3 ton jack stands? That's fine if you do. I use the 3 ton stands under the rear axle, and I've got 6 ton stands to use on the frame rails in the front. Don't ever use wood as a spacer. For a couple of reasons: 1. It could crack and break under the weigh of the truck. 2: It creates a hinge point where any movement could cause the truck to come off the stands. Always use jack stands in direct contact with a solid part of the vehicle. Also, buy quality jack stands. Do you really trust your life to a $9.99 piece of Chineseum from Harbor Freight?

 

I won't get under any vehicle on a jackstand if that jackstand doesn't have a manual lock to help prevent the support from failing. On a lot of the cheap jackstands, all it takes is you bumping that lever or the jackstand the wrong way and that vehicle is coming down on top of you. but Harbor Freight did have a couple of recalls over the years for jackstand failures, too.

These are a nice lower-cost pair on scAmazon, when I saw them for like $50/pr back in 2023, I jumped on it. Sometimes Costco carries these Torin brand. Here's the scAmazon link:

$65 BIG RED AT46002ABR Torin Double Locking Steel Jack Stands, 2 Pack, 6 Ton (12000 lb), Black

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BFDK7VM2/

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Budget friendly impact. Go with Harbor Freight. I have all 3 sizes, they work fine. They are around $50 a peice on sale. I forget brand name they are blue and black. I have zero complaints for price. And yes I own Milwaukee, rigid, and Bosch tools as well. I would not say this with as much confidence 5 years ago.

 

Awesome thank you. This ?

 

Is this the correct part for the sway bar bushing? https://autoparts.toyotacarson.com/products/product/link-assy-fr-stabil-4882034010